You don’t have to be an economist to recognise where the potential for money making lies in Phnom Penh. The service industry is one of the fastest-growing in the city and all you have to do is head to BKK 1 to see that growth in action. As Costa Coffee spawns yet another identical building on Street 51, one holds out hope that independent businesses continue to hold their own. More than that: that they reflect something of Cambodia so that we punters can remember where we are.
Newly opened restaurant-cum-bar The Village achieves both of these things in a surprising way. A large two-storey building with an immense façade, the starkly contemporary front is nonetheless tasteful. It doesn’t bear out awfully or awkwardly into the street, but is built for the climate. It’s a smartly designed building, reminiscent of the New Khmer Architecture of the 1960s and 1970s.
But expect to check the Phnom Penh you know at the door. Within, an immense space opens up: high ceilings, a single dimly-lit dining area and echoing music greet you. There’s nothing like it in this city. To paint a quick picture, think of the Mad Men advertising agents’ favourite haunt, minus the strippers and the cloud of cigar smoke which hovers above diners’ heads.
There’s a touch of elegance to The Village, thanks in part to live music. Forget Holiday in Cambodia’s rendition of Wonderwall. Here you are instead courted by the lively but easygoing tunes of BB King and Stevie Wonder.
Emphasis is placed on conversation, music and cocktails (happy hour is from 4pm to 7pm). A large screen dominates the wall behind the low-set stage and flat-screen TVs are flecked about the restaurant. Recorded shows are played quietly, so don’t think you can get away with ignoring your dining partner.
Much thought has gone into the vibe, but the menu is simple: western food with a hint of Lebanese flavour here and there. Here you can find familiar favourites: pizza, burgers, steak and fish. Although kitchen staff are yet to find their rhythm in timing the cooking of each element of the meal, portions are generous and the staff attentive without being overbearing.
One highlight is the cocktails, flashily made behind a sprawling bar. Drinking alone? Set yourself on a barstool and pull off a Donald Draper-esque cool. But heed this: The Village demands a lively atmosphere to pull off what it has clearly set out to achieve. With this in mind, don’t bring one friend, bring seven. Fill the place, if you can, then simply surrender yourselves to the music.
The Village, #1 Street 360 (cnr Norodom Blvd).