Canton calling

Noodle Garden is the kind of place that arises when a Hong Kong foodie lands in Phnom Penh and can’t quite satiate his need for authentic home cooking. Thompson Lee’s place feels like a bustling Kowloon noodle den. The clink and clash of plates and bowls punctuate Cantonese conversations. Aromas of sweet tea and yuanyang – a smooth, rich and oddly soporific coffee-tea blend – swirl with the scents of dim sum and fresh-baked pasties. The seafood dumplings, like everything on the menu, are hand-made in the kitchen. Most ingredients come directly from China. The service is quick. And most dishes are only a few dollars. If your luck is holding, two-time Asian Tea-Serving Champion Law Tak might even be the one to fill your cup.

Noodle Garden, #121 Sisowath Quay; 023 722233.

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