Toto: Noodle doodles

Ramen has a bad reputation; that is true. But the blame falls squarely on the over-salted ‘instant’ variety, the kind felons and college students buy up at 30 cents a pack and trade for menthol cigarettes. ToTo Ramen, the new little brother to Toto Ice Cream on Norodom, couldn’t be more different. The SUVs and late-model two seaters parked out front are the first clue; hsushed tables of smartly dressed Japanese women the second. Ramen aficionados will find plenty to like, with noodle-house staples such asmtonkotsum (a creamy, pork-based broth served with thin, straight noodles) and miso on the menu. Two sunken tables in front lend a slight Japanese air to the otherwise country cottage ambience. Folks in fancy cars don’t dine on cheap noodles, however. Nor do they sip second-rate sake. The good stuff, the Hakushika gold, costs, well, if you have to ask… ToTo Ramen, #75 Norodom Blvd.

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