When French novelist, poet and playwright Jules Verne packed fictional adventurer Phileas Fogg off to circumnavigate the planet, it was to be a full 80 days before the rascal returned from his mission. Amateur! In one evening at the recently opened new-wine-bar-on-the-block, Zino, you can hop from Spain to Italy to France to Morocco and back without breaking a sweat. The menu, by a Michelin-starred chef, is global; the wine references number more than 100. Specials include the sumptuous-sounding sea bass wrapped in parma ham ($15). Slate floors, split levels, a sweeping staircase and tables in intimate corners only add to the sophistication. Be on your best behaviour, or as near as dammit. Zino, #12 Street 294