For the past weeks I have been missing my beloved Arizona Borderlands, which my family has called home for six generations, as well as getting over a case of Chronic Valley Fever. All I wanted in the whole wide world was a plate of refried beans and tortillas. Hearing rumours that Mexican missionaries were in the process of opening a cafe in Phnom Penh, I put this notion out of my mind trying not to get my gringa hopes up. Walking down Street 123, I was thrown headlong into smells of home, thinking it was a mirage in the mind of a non-practicing cowgirl. Praise the lord and pass the ammunition, it was not; it was Cafe Alma, a home-style Mexican cafe in the heart of Russian Market.
On my first go, I had succulent pork carnintas with fresh cabbage, onion, cilantro and lime. The meat rested on fresh corn tortillas which were the perfect thickness to be cradled. The salsa had flavour, but could have had more uff. The meat was flanked by a rice pilaf and refried beans topped with queso fresco. I had to hold back after the beans: they were just so right, I nearly cried from joy. Beans have been, to quote John Steinbeck, “a warm cloak against economic cold” in my family and they are my soul food.
My second go was a childhood standard: an egg, ham and bean burrito with a bit of cheese and salsa on the side, with fruit salad and a pineapple iced tea. The burrito was easy to hold. The flour tortilla had the perfect body: flakey, warm, savoury and chewy. It was filled and rolled so everything didn’t squish out the bottom. The burrito held strong and rewarded me with a lovely chewy little end-piece full of ham and cheese drippings to clean up my salsa.
Both meals were simply plated; though forks and knifes are provided, for the most part they are moot: this is why tortillas and hands were created. There is also a rotation of cakes, ranging from Dulce de Leche to Chocolate Kahlua and hot coffee with cream taboot.
The staff exudes enthusiasm and reverence for “The Mexican Kitchen” as something sacred, and feeding others is a calling they work hard at. I always leave Cafe Alma feeling nourished and looked after, like I went home to my beloved border and somebody’s nana just fixed me a plate. This place has heart, simplicity, warmth and a special kind of soul. The crew “Love the Lord their God,” but are cool about it. Personally I thank the Lord they love the manteca (lard) as well. Café Alma offers a daily market fresh menu, opening every day from 7am to 2pm.
Café Alma, Street 123 (near Street 454), Russian Market; 092 424903.