Style versus substance

It’s 11:30 on a warm Mekong morning. I need to refuel and face the day, or what’s left of it anyway. I contact my partner in crime (well, when the crime is Saturday brunch) and we make a plan to meet at Digby’s, the ‘newish’ establishment on the corner of Streets 306 and 63.

A colleague recently remarked that if, when in New York, you are never further than two metres from a rat, then in BKK1 you are probably never more than 20 metres from a latte. The explosion of café/dining options in this and the city’s wider environs has been suitably impressive and if access to a reasonable cappuccino was a Millennium Development Goal then Phnom Penh could justifiably tick this one off the imposing list.
Enter Digby’s.

The eatery is a breakfast and lunch venue, open from 7am to 10pm (closed Sundays). If the venue has an older, nocturnal brother in décor and design then Doors comes to mind (for the more travelled, try the excellent Ursine, in Ho Chi Minh). And from a style perspective they are all impressive. Think smooth, polished concrete; large spaces and airy decor, then you will know the feel.

It’s done well and compliments should be made to the creative design team, who have finished things off with artfully composed tables and static displays, including a collection of old typewriters at the main entrance (although their relation to the dining experience is hard to decipher, perhaps they are intended for people whose laptops die?).

Having created an ambience, does the food match the space? Hmm, let’s say the potential is definitely there.

On our visit my companion launches into the highly commended cheesecake. “Tasty” and various other superlatives are offered up, between bites, as testimony to the virtues of the cake. She goes all Oliver Twist and kindly asks the waitress if it’s possible to have some more.

Me, I go for a carbo load and head for the Big Breakfast. When it arrives I think there has been some mistake on the menu, perhaps renaming the dish ‘moderately sized breakfast’ would be more apt. What is present certainly ticks the boxes: tasty sausages, eggs cooked as requested, potato croquettes, but it’s all a little on the lean side and a bit underwhelming, certainly for $7.95.

The orange juice I order is refreshing and freshly squeezed, but it fights for space with a large helping of ice cubes in a less than classy disposal plastic cup (environmental footprint?). Again, ice and price mean that Digby’s delivers too little for too much ($2.95).

The waiting staff are attentive and try their best, and an obvious investment has been made in their training and delivery. Go off rote with your questions, however, and they struggle, but this is to be expected and it is the sort of thing that will iron out in the coming weeks.

Elsewhere a large portion of the remaining downstairs is dedicated to a deli that includes a butchers, organic food and a healthy selection of wines. Neither of us feel like purchasing anything today, but the selection looks tempting; perhaps next time.

Overall, I leave Digby’s with mixed feelings. Its understated class and aesthetic represents a noteworthy addition to the design-scape (and imagination) of Phnom Penh. I remain less convinced, however, about the capacity of Digby’s to deliver fare that mirrors its prices. After all, style alone will not carry the day if you have a raging appetite! Come for the décor. Stay for the ambience. Consider substance versus price.

Digby’s, #197 Street 63  023 226 677.

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CORRECTION SEPT  5.

The original article said Digby’s was located at Street 306 and Street 57. The correct cross street is Street 63. The original article cited opening hours of 7am to 5pm. Opening hours are 7am to 10pm. The original address listed in the article was for the butchery, not the restaurant. The story has been revised accordingly. The Advisor believes prices stated in the article were correct at time of writing.