Pulled, plied and pulverised by hand, the noodles materialise before your very eyes. The young chef from Takeo province smiles as he stretches the dough as far as he can reach. Then he twirls it into a curl and slices off what he needs to put into the pot of boiling water. Even if the food wasn’t wonderfully good, the production performance at David’s Fresh Noodle on Street 13 is more than worth the entry price.
The choices – listed on a big plastic menu that sways in the gentle breeze outside – offers the noodles in soup, fried or cold. What caught my attention and turned me into a regular, however, were the dumplings. Jiaozi in Chinese, gyoza in Japanese or perogies in Eastern European speak, these steamed or fried dough-filled concoctions hit the spot. Good peasant food that sticks to the middle, rather than the ribs.
While the dumplings are in the cauldron, a plastic bowl with enough garlic to ward off all the vampires in Transylvania appears. Add a personal formula of chili and soy from the condiments tray in the middle of the table and the dipping sauce is ready. The price varies, depending on the filling, from $2 for vegetarian to $2.75 for seafood. Noodle soup with pork dumplings comes in at $2.50, and the squeeze of lime adds a tasty touch.Those wanting traditional Khmer food can consult the regular menu: curry for $3.50, chicken or fish amok for $3.90. Western food die-hards can tuck into a burger with bacon and cheese for $3.50 or a shrimp basket for $2.90.
David’s – named after the owner’s eight-year-old son – is truly a family operation. The kids get involved and deliver menus then retire to play computer games at the next table. The restaurant opened about a year and a half ago and may yet expand to a sister operation in Siem Reap because the food formula seems to work.
Sam Bath, the father of this fourth-generation Chinese family, was born in a poor rural area in Takeo province. Now that his situation has improved – he also owns a car and deals in real estate – he is involved in the Spirit of Cambodia, Tom Village Project. This small operation is in a remote area and the project does what it can with the money it gets from Australian and Portuguese sponsors.
Pictures of the school that teaches foreign languages, how to use computers and sewing decorate the restaurant walls. Older students come into Phnom Penh to learn how to cook and, judging from the noodle production, they are doing well. While learning skills that will help them get a job, they live with the Sam family.
Next time you’re strolling down Restaurant Street, stop in at David’s and enjoy the dumplings. And don’t forget to ask more about their charity work and how you can get involved.
David’s Fresh Noodle, #213 Street 13.