The cartel connection

Grab a red marker and compose your own Mexican meal. Uno, dos, tres – or one, two, three, for unilingual types.
Uno: circle your main ingredient and the choices are beef barbacoa, shredded chicken, carnitas (pulled pork) or veggie. Once that decision is made, move on to dos and pick your delivery vehicle. The options include burrito, bowl, quesadilla or three tacos. The final instructions are the extras: black beans, lettuce, cheese, grilled veggies, sour cream and guacamole.

The final, final decision is the level of hotness that ranges from salsa fresca (mild) to roasted corn (hot). No choice there because I believe chili peppers should form the sixth food group, but just to be sure I scrawl ‘very spicy’ on the order form.

We order tacos and burritos to share. The tacos arrive almost before you can say: ‘Remember the Alamo.’ My dining companion and photographer notes they are subtle and tasty, but not spicy. When I order extra hot but get ultra mild, I pout. The thing with spice is that it has to be cooked in rather than dumped on, but what can be expected of a woman who cuts seven or eight red chilies into two scrambled eggs? The rice and beans – which don’t fall into the spice category – are simple and moist as they should be.

Matt Harp, the owner, happens along and we engage in a discussion about the evolution of Cocina Cartel. He is upfront about the operation: “I don’t have a mission statement. I just want to run a good Mexican place.” Fair enough, because the restaurant has only been open for about two-and-a-half months. “Rather than trying to do 25 things badly, we concentrate on doing three or four options very well.” Agreed: that is the sign of a good restaurant.

The ambience at Cocina Cartel doesn’t leave you feeling as though you’ve just landed in Tijuana. With the high ceiling, fans and straightforward decor, it’s clean, simple and doesn’t try to scream ‘Mexican!’ No senoritas with roses between their teeth dancing flamenco here. Not a cactus in sight.

What about the drinks? The standard alcohol and mixers are on the menu, along with beer, cider, soda and fruit juice. I go for a ‘Kidnapped In Jaurez: a combination of beer, tomato juice and tequila with a spicy kick.’

Our discussion reverts back to who considers what to be spicy. “I agree that we need to up the spice level so we may create an ‘inferno’ for the die-hards.” As Matt watches me shake the better part of a bottle of Tabasco into my drink, he adds: “But for renegades like you, we may have to include an additional charge.” True enough, the Tabasco likely cost more than the tequila.
Why come To Cocina Cartel? It’s an innovative, engaging place that’s evolving and listens to what customers have to suggest. Fun!

Cocina Cartel, #198b Street 19; 089 227182.