For me, like any true foodaholic, Kep conjures visions of succulent seafood caught then eaten at the beach, salty juices dripping down my chin. And while the bounty of the sea – and in particular the crabs that crawl along its edge – remains the most sought-after fare in this coastal town, more diverse flavours are bursting onto the scene, hinting of the faraway lands that inspired their creation.
Kimly Crab Market, Kep:
When in Kep, whether for a week or an hour, Kimly is a must. A modest shack of bamboo and wood poised above the shore, the scent of crab intoxicating, Kimly is Kep au naturel, at its rugged best. I couldn’t keep my hands off the local celebrities: crabs. At Kimly, they are fried with local pepper, steamed with garlic, mixed into fried rice, served in a pot of amok or simply grilled, and in every appearance they are smashing. No other fried rice can compare to Kimly’s crab fried rice, flavoured with crab juice, equally sweet and salty, with meaty morsels of crab sitting on top. Just as decadent are the fried crabs with Kampot green pepper, bursting with flavour – sweet, tart, subtly spicy. Once you’ve sucked out every last bit of flesh, you can prolong the ecstasy by dipping your bread in the sauce.Kimly offers a wide variety of fresh catch and none will disappoint (but please avoid rare species such as stingray and shark). I can still taste the steamed shrimp with garlic noodles, swimming in the tastiest juice of butter, garlic and shrimp.
Breezes, Route 33, Kep:
It’s hard to imagine the food could live up to the atmosphere of Breezes: shabby but chic, with canvas chairs on private little huts right on the sand, steps from the water. But it turns out they are perfectly matched and Breezes’ light tropical resort-style cuisine is just as charming as its ambience. Peruse the menu with a refreshing lemon granita in hand, then choose from Khmer, Chinese and Continental offerings created by Breezes’ Dutch proprietor. The crab dumplings were particularly imaginative and served like we’ve never seen, with chili and little balls of zesty green peppercorns that pop delightfully in the mouth. Shrimp in creamy Kampot pepper sauce was like a light curry, with interesting Thai-Khmer flavours. We loved the sweet, sour and spice in the squid in ginger and tamarind sauce, with so many sharp flavours in harmony.
The Strand, Knai Bang Chatt, Kep:
Having opened its doors late last year, The Strand is Knai Bang Chatt’s lastest fine-dining venue. The restaurant sits atop one of the resort’s retro-inspired houses, though you may dine al fresco at the main eatery, facing the sea. The Strand’s menu, created by their new South African chef, is what you would expect from any gourmet restaurant. The choices are trendy, of a fusion bent, and a three-course set meal is $25. Be prepared to linger and lounge: every dish is personally seen through by the chef and her attention to detail is evident; every plate on our table was a piece of art. The Strand’s cuisine is Asian-inspired and presented with artfully arranged greens and reds, evocative of nature. To start, the crab crackers and duck spring rolls were tasty. Mains options include seafood amok, steamed crabs, tamarind glazed pork belly and Angus beef strip loin. Everything we had was meticulously prepared and delicate; a world away from the resort’s other restaurant, The Sailing Club, which has a much more casual feel. The Strand gives Kep a sophisticated edge: a glam dining option for those who seek it.