Roman noble

Aperitivo marks the latest entry into the capital’s burgeoning echelons of upper mid-market eateries. The small, downstairs bar is drenched in swathes of ochre and serves as a drinking spot and reception area for a larger dining room upstairs. The menu is long and diverse, with entries named in Italian and described in English. There are appetisers, soups, salads, pastas, pizzas, cold cuts, cheeses, mains and desserts. Grappa, too. Everything, really, that a homesick Italian might sell the grandkids for. Appetisers range from $6.50 to $13 or so. The Capesante alla Venezian starter (scallops grating with garlic and fresh parsley) costs $8.50, the Bolognese $7.50, the imported Black Angus tenderloin around $25. Aperitivo Winery & Eatery, #96 Sothearos Blvd.

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