Under The Willow, An Italian Paradise

“Certainly paradise, whatever, wherever it be, contains flaws. Paradisical flaws, if you like. If it did not, it would be incapable of drawing the hearts of men or angels.”

– Henry Miller

Now I’m not so sure dear old Henry would have written those words had he had the pleasure of an evening at The Willow. Tucked away on Street 21, mere yards from Sihanouk Boulevard, it’s a veritable refuge from the hustle and bustle of the city. Beautifully decorated and run by Eliza Mealey and her husband, and with executive chef Susi Phipps, whose CV includes a spell as Lauren Bacall’s personal chef at The Connaught in London, this is a premier league team producing premier results.

I happened in on a Thursday, in the company – and on the recommendation – of an old Kiwi friend from my former seaside haunts. Willow has started a new Italian promotion on Thursday evenings: every choice from a set menu at $3.50 per dish, a deal my thrifty Calvinist forebears would be happy with (though you wouldn’t actually see them crack a smile). With a cheeky nod at 1980s British-Italian restaurants, the tables are decorated in checked tablecloths (minus the old Chianti bottles with candles inserted, but I’m told they’re coming). Music is authentically Italian, and the only cheese is in the food.

And so to starters: a choice of chilled tomato and basil soup with garlic croutons, or bruschetta with mozzarella. I’ve never been a fan of cold soup (the drunken incident with the can of Heinz tomato and the 3am munchies does not count), but this was ambrosial indeed. No overpowering taste of basil and so obviously cooked from 100% fresh ingredients (The Willow buy all theirs fresh on a daily basis). Bruschetta is bruschetta, but this managed to be something a little more: a great combination of tastes that would have had me ordering a second portion if not for the thought of the impending main course.

A choice of three here, but my companion chose the same dish as me, so for now can only describe the fusilli Boscaola:pasta cooked to within milliseconds of perfection and served with pepper, ham and mushrooms in a white wine and cream sauce. I already have my favourite Italian venue in the Penh (won’t name it here), but this dish matched anything I’ve had there. I could easily have eaten another potion of this and not felt one iota of guilt. For vegetarians, there’s another fusilli dish, served with pea, mint and Kampot pepper. Avoiding pasta (WHY?!)? There’s a Roquefort and parmesan salad, too.

For dessert came Afrigado: three little cups filled with espresso, vanilla ice cream and Frangelico and served atop a plate. Simply pour the ice cream onto the plate and add the espresso and Frangelico to taste. Mamma mia! Che bello! The medley of three very different and distinct flavours produces little fireworks of joy in the mouth.

Overall, this is a surefire winner on the culinary calendar, with different selections each week. So if you want to impress the Significant Other in your life without frightening your wallet, get down to The Willow on Thursdays from 6pm for a veritable taste of paradise. Henry would have been a regular.

The Willow, #1 Street 21; 092 553743.

 

3 thoughts on “Under The Willow, An Italian Paradise”

  1. Following the reading of Iain Donnelly article about The Willow, today I stopped for lunch to verify the food quality. I took a table near the bar, the place was almost empty three customer only (13.00 hrs) since I had a late breakfast I was not ready for a full meal so I ordered Bolognese pasta and a beer. My meal was promptly delivered to my table, a few bites of the pasta didn’t produced the effect that I was expecting; first the pastas were not drained properly and the sauce was diluted by the water, the taste was rather dowdy nothing like in Mr. Donnelly food description. Frankly I can eat similar meal of better quality at any branch of Brown Coffee shops for $4.25 with no superfluities. Perhaps the chef (Susi Phipps) was not in the kitchen when that Bolognese sauce was prepared, frankly that recipe should be revisited, and I can do better than that myself. The atmosphere depicted in your article, well perhaps it was night time when you visited The Willow, sadly for me it was daytime and I can say that the place need a hell of a scrubbing, the furniture shows a lot of wear and tear some of them should be simply replaced. The service was poor just to say the least; two young lads on duty, one behind the bar while the other one was turning in circle, occasionally scratching his genitals, not too inviting for a food business.
    There is a proliferation of restaurants, bars and eateries in Phnom Penh but let’s be honest most of them are promising the moon but are just a flock of amateurs with no professional ability and gladly they don’t stay in business very long.

    Conclusion: “Ah in the world of advertizing there is no such thing as a lie”
    Hoping that my statement could help someone at The Willow.
    PS: Sorry about my foggy English Mr. Donnelly, I was not educated in the Shakespeare language.

    Jean Cote
    Tucson, AZ

    1. I’m sorry to hear that you had such a bad experience Jean. I do not advertise for any establishment, nor have any connection to them; I merely visit them on recommendations and the write my impressions of the place, whether they be good or bad. It’s disappointing to hear that the food was so sub standard but I am very surprised at your comments re the decor. The Willow is a fairly new hotel with very high ratings on Trip Advisor so your impression of the furniture and cleanliness shocks me a little.
      But certainlyon my evening visit, the food was excellent and the ambience and decor deservedly praiseworthy.

  2. I went tonight after reading the review on this website.
    I really really enjoyed the pasta I had – as good as anything I’ve had at any of the italian restaurants in Phnom Penh. I will be back!

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