I wanted to do something special this week and I was willing, as Rocky would put it, to ‘go the distance’. Why? This is probably my last Dish column. I wanted to find the ideal place: a restaurant with a good reputation, yet not hugely popular; one that hasn’t been reviewed a million times already. A place with character; somewhere that stands out. I wanted to transcend the boundaries of mere food critic and give you a heart-felt recommendation.
I sat down in front of my computer and thought. I thought for a long time. Nothing. A change of setting might help; I visited a dozen cafes. Then I walked along Riverside, mentally skimming. Still nothing. The thought I might be leaving Phnom Penh, coupled with the fact I felt totally stuck on what to review, brought my spirits down. I headed to one of my favorite spots, hoping it would help me think straight.
Like always, I felt immediately at home. The typically soulful southern US atmosphere – walls bristling with a zillion gadgets and black-and-white pictures of famous musicians and athletes – gave me that warm, cosy feeling I’d been craving. The warm, placid light from the ceiling lamps (the heavy curtains are almost always closed) made me feel like I was in a cave, safe and secluded from the outside world. I sat by the corner and made myself comfortable, feeling better already.
The perky, ever-smiling waitress approached. I browsed the huge menu, full of American classics, interesting specials and ample cocktails, and settled on meatloaf with mash potatoes ($5.75) and a draft anchor ($1.75). Waiting for my food, I sank into the sofa, sporadically reaching for the sweet peanuts and huge basket of popcorn on my table. Suddenly my good friend Soklang appeared, sat by my side and ordered chicken cordon bleu ($7.50). Serendipity.
The meatloaf was impeccable: tender and piquant, it outshone those I used to devour as a high-school student in New England. As I dug into it, the block of meat slowly, effortlessly, crumbled. It was covered with a delicious sweet sauce. The mash potatoes were creamy and salty. Soklang was also happy. Her cordon bleu came in the form of two breaded balls of chicken, with a cheesy heart enveloped in chunks of ham. I had a taste myself and the contrast presented by the cheese, by its creaminess and penetrating flavour, was surprising and satisfying. Steering another piece of meatloaf into my mouth, I had a revelation: Freebird would make a great review.
Freebird Bar & Grill, #69 Street 240; 023 224 712