It is Friday evening and my Russian friend is hosting her birthday party at Irina, one of only two Russian restaurants in town. Surreptitiously standing near the intersection of St. 294 and 29 and hidden behind a tall metallic fence, the restaurant can be quite hard to spot.
The decoration is intriguing but uninspired, perhaps; a tad too cold. Russian memorabilia adorns the walls. A display cabinet in the corner showcases paraphernalia as varied as a small china plate bearing the portrait of Stalin and a clay figurine of a tatar in traditional attire.
I sit at the long table and join the dozen or so expats waiting for appetisers. Immediately, I am presented with a chilled shot of Russian vodka. The spirit goes down smoothly, and, within seconds, I begin to feel a little dazed. Its lack of taste is proof of its high calibre. You can also order Singaporean distilled vodka, which is generally known to be of great quality.
The waiters soon bring plates of brined herring and pickled vegetables. Along with a shot, the set is referred to in the menu as “Russian snack and shot of vodka” ($5.80). The fish, topped with thin slices of onion and macerated with greens of dill, is deliciously sour, just like the marinated tomato, cucumber and mushroom. The second shot of vodka intensifies the daze.
Soups are an important part of Russian cuisine, and borshch ($4.60), a cold beetroot soup, is a must in any self-respecting Russian feast. This one is salty and refreshing, with the irresistible aroma of fresh dill. I sink a dollop of smetana (a type of sour cream omnipresent in Russian cuisine) and the rich pinkish hue of the soup becomes several shades lighter.
At this point, the table is filled with all sorts of dishes, but one seems to be drawing more attention than the rest: everyone wants some pelmeni ($4). Luckily, I manage to get myself a couple before they run out. These pork-filled dumplings, juicy and savoury, will not disappoint even the most intransigent of connoisseurs. Naturally, you have smetana and vinegar at your disposition for dipping needs. The pirogi ($4), potato-filled dumplings of unleavened dough, is another dish that causes a stir at the table.
Bliny are thin pancakes prepared from batter and cooked on a hot frying pan. Today I find them rolled up and stuffed with minced meat ($4.80) and, I must admit, the result is surprising. The filling is dry, but this somehow works out for the better in combination with the pancakes.
Off the menu, you can ask for some syriniki ($4), fried quark (farmer’s cheese) pancakes garnished with smetana. The contrast of flavours in this hidden jewel –the sweetness of the pancake and the salty smetana – will put a big smile on your face.
The cheque, which includes copious amounts of vodka and wine, comes to $15 per person. Irina is definitely not cheap, but excellent food always comes at a cost. The service is just okay and could be improved. All in all, if you are looking for authentic Russian in Phnom Penh, then Irina is your place.
Irina Restaurant, #22, St. 29