“Where are you taking us?” Andre asked as we drove through, admittedly, not the prettiest section of Phnom Penh. We continued down toward the river and the remnants from a leftover market seemed to clean themselves up as guesthouses and restaurants emerged.
“There!” I spotted Dot Grill – a last-ditch-effort location just barely avoiding the madness of the riverfront.
Though the untrained eye might miss its immediate subtleties, differentiating it from touristy cafes nearby, the pristine atmosphere indicated that elephant-print pants were unnecessary. It was filled with wood instead of wicker. Set tables with full-sized glasses welcomed us. The cool lighting relieved us of our heat-induced, midday haze. Every detail was clearly executed and I could only think to describe it as intelligently designed.
We sat ourselves down and ordered the lunch specials: one traditional Khmer BBQ skewer and one innocuous-sounding veggie sandwich. With our water glasses filled, our Cokes delivered, and the stainless steel grill at the centre of the restaurant fired up preparing our meal, we took in our surroundings. This recently opened restaurant was an obvious effort to share the pride of Cambodian food through a more modern setting. When our wait staff presented our meals, we confirmed that this approach most certainly worked.
Sliding off the marinated meats from the skewer, I could already sense their tenderness. The chicken was cut effortlessly. The juices ran free and the carnivore within me urgently anticipated the satisfaction of the first succulent bite. None of that rationing of flavours, just basting perfection. The chicken won out over the pork, but both carried that sweet, slightly floral note well. Not to be overshadowed, the grilled vegetables had equally mouth-watering qualities: something about throwing green peppers and onions over a flame takes them from being puny vegetarian fare to robust flavour contenders. Add in the pepper and lime dipping sauce and it was clear that Dot Grill wasn’t just a pretty face.
Dispelling the usual disappointment from teeth-breaking baguettes, the sandwich was also on point. The physics defying sturdy yet soft bread held the contents of one of the best veggie sandwiches I’ve ever eaten. “Best” in no way refers to healthiest, however, as the mixture of raw and grilled vegetables were doused in a white dressing that lacked neither flavour nor, I presume, calories. Not a deterrent, we ate every last bite of the liberally filled baguette and discussed the dressing’s tangy, yet hummus-like flavor.
Although the side of crisps left much to be desired in terms of the mandatory crunch-factor, the desserts quickly made up for the momentary slip-up. Kampong Chhnang province provided our bamboo sticky rice, the mild sweetness at just the right amount for comfort food, and we chose chocolate as our ice cream selection. The last spoonful of the savoury treat left us comfortably full, a reflection of the conscious restraint used in all aspects of the restaurant.
Organic when possible, always seasonal, and, most importantly, traditional with a twist all factored in to make this unassuming eatery well worth the search.
Dot Grill. #8 Street 144
023 996 402