A trattoria in the back blocks of Russian Market seems about as likely as a liquor booth in the church bazaar. But over on Street 460, Trattoria Bello takes up residence as the new neighbourhood pizza shop and wine purveyor, joining a surprisingly diverse list of ethnic eateries in the area. Built by Japanese interests, Trattoria’s master pizza man is an import from Osaka. His menu includes 10 pizzas and a few pastas and salads. A marinara (with anchovies) is just $3; a salami is just $5.50. Crusts are thin, soft and chewy, and the sauce and cheese embellish the pie, not suffocate it. While perhaps a bit fancy for its trattoria roots, Bello is every bit the friendly, laid-back local, and the pizzas are damn fine for the price. Trattoria Bello, 17c Street 460
