It’s about time for a city as dynamic and voracious as ours: we have woken up to the discovery of a whole new meal that though neither breakfast nor lunch is hands down more interesting than either and infinitely more satisfying than both. Brunch – we’re talking eggs fashioned into benedicts; perfectly ripened fruit in rich, velvety yogurts; fluffy buttery pancakes swimming in richly flavoured syrups with dollops of cream – is love for the insides, a song for the soul and arguably the most gratifying way to begin any weekend.
The Duck, Sothearos Blvd; 089 823704
It is difficult to imagine The Duck could offer more than just a slight change of pace, judging from its location on busy Sothearos Boulevard, but stepping in on a quiet Sunday morning is enchanting. The melody of Someone To Watch Over Me sweetly brings the air to life, a subtle light softly peeping in and casting a glow on the warm ochre interiors, gently waking you from a deep weekend slumber.
It gets better. The usual freshly squeezed juices are on offer at The Duck, but the Lychee Lime is a concoction so green, tart and fresh that it feels like you’re sipping it straight out of a garden. The cappuccinos are equally lovely, served in large, friendly bowls and perfectly brewed.
My favourite brunch ($5 per main course) dish is eggs benedict and The Duck’s version makes every other benedict seem dowdy and uncivilised. Moist, plump eggs are dressed with a light but tasty hollandaise, poised atop a handful of garden green spinach, bacon and muffin. Every ingredient is so ripe and fresh you’d swear there’s a farm where there should be a kitchen. The fresh corncakes are also a winner, a kind of pancake with subtle hints of southwestern spices, dotted with kernels that pop like pleasant surprises in the mouth. The pancakes are among the best in Phnom Penh, all light and fluffy; the syrup rich and buttery, wonderful with bananas and cream.
Public House, Street 240½; 017 770754
Twenty metres deep within a skinny alleyway off Street 240, Public House is the epitome of a true Phnom Penh find: a gem on a street one is initially doubtful exists. The surprise begins at the door, where relaxing hues of pines and mints enclose the loveliest – if cosiest – of spaces with about six tables plus stools at the bar, like the discovery of a secret watering hole at the end of a long journey. And it’s delightful to the end, with brunch fare so fine it might rival your favourite London gastro pub – and then trump that, as it did mine.
Weekend brunch at Public House is done in an interesting way. For $15 ($25 includes fruity alcoholic chillers), you can order any and all things from the brunch menu and the chefs will whip up a taster-sized portion, as you like it, when you like it. Ingenious.
The secret to Public House’s scrumptious fare is its perfect simplicity: perfectly fresh ingredients, perfectly seasoned, perfectly cooked.
Fruit salad — a colourful mix of ripe mango, banana, melon and apple, topped with creamy natural yogurt – smiles up at you from the bowl. Corn fritters, firm yet light pancakes, instantly transport you to the Southwest. Spices are distinctively flavoured, but don’t overpower the dish. What really makes you want to go back is the simplest offering of all: avocado toast with bacon, a stellar combination of three simple ingredients that, when together, sing the most enchanting chorus in your mouth.
Pangea Fusion Restaurant, NagaWorld; 023 228822
High rollers would do well to consider the Sunday Funday Brunch at NagaWorld’s Pangea Fusion restaurant. A cavernous dining hall, decked out in balloons and streamers, houses not only a miniature clown house complete with clowns, but also one of the biggest weekend buffets in the capital.
Themed service stations dot the vast ballroom, from pasta to Mexican to cold cuts, from fresh crepes and fruit to a truly devastating array of desserts (don’t miss your chance to dip into the pink chocolate fountain). Brunch alone will set you back $55, so it makes sense to plump for the $68 option which includes free-flow Moet & Chandon, cocktails, mocktails, house wine and soft drinks. And don’t forget to order a cab home in advance: driving or riding after such indulgence simply isn’t an option!