To still one’s mind requires immense discipline, removing all conscious thought while sitting cross-legged in silence. That means you shouldn’t think of crab, or the bowl of noodles, herbs and chopped spring rolls you had for lunch at the market, or how you will ask the baii charr lady out the front to omit MSG from your order in Khmer. Every time your mind wanders, you need to rein it back in and concentrate. Some folk seem to be at peace as they sit there, eyes closed, probably three minutes away from achieving Nirvana. However for many, myself included, it is hard to stop thinking, especially at dinner time.
I have been attempting to meditate at Wat Lanka for a few months now, slowly building up to a rather lengthy 35-minute stint last week. One of the oldest monasteries in Phnom Penh (1442), the main temple comprises a towering Buddha statue and beautiful murals of the Buddha’s life in a large airy hall. Somehow, street noise disappears, leaving the peaceful sound of birds and the goings on of the monks below. There is usually a monk present who provides a little instruction, my favourite being the head monk who has a great belly laugh and provides encouragement in a Yoda-esque manner: “But try you must.”
Finish meditating and a delectable reward awaits. Known as the baii chhar (‘fried rice’) lady, she parks her cart just outside the gates of Wat Lanka on Street 51 from 5.30pm. The main cart is used to prepare fried rice and the side wok is reserved for noodles. My standard order: fried rice with no MSG, extra greens and an egg. The little stall next door sells drinks and the kid-size table offers a range of condiments – fish sauce, MSG (in case you needed some more), chilli sauce, vinegar and soya sauce, whatever you need to give it that perfect ‘zing’.
With my order placed, it’s time to pull up a plastic stool and await the arrival of that steaming plate of goodness while soaking up the business of the street, a stark contrast to the peace and quiet of the temple. Range Rovers the size of a small house whizz past, tourists working their way to bars and restaurants on Street 278 play Frogger with traffic, and food carts with their bell ringing are wheeled by, laden with mango and noodle soup and crunchy baguettes with pate and salad.
My heart, however, belongs to the baii chhar lady. First the sizzle as garlic and chilli hits the oil, followed by the clanging of the metal spoon as it tosses around each addition. And then, on this noisy, busy street outside the serene Wat Lanka, an almost heavenly scent of freshly stir-fried rice hits you. A generous portion of fried rice is served up (if you’re lucky on a plate although usually in a Styrofoam container), ready to be inhaled as thoughts (and acts) of gluttony are finally permissible.
Find the baii chhar (‘fried rice’) lady outside the gates of Wat Lanka on Street 51 & 278 from 5.30pm every day.