When I tell someone that I am Italian, for some strange reason the first thing that comes to his or her mind is pizza. Taking for granted that being Italian I should be a Queen of Cuisine, one of the first questions they ask is: ‘Can you cook something for me?’ Disappointingly, I am not the master chef that people expect and, surprisingly, I can’t make a pizza but I do know very well what a proper Italian one tastes like.
After taking a stroll near Kandal Market, I find a small pizza and wine shop on Street 136. Unable to resist the tempting call of my culinary origins, I pop in to find out more about this place called Ga.Dò. As I enter the restaurant, an Italian-Jamaican friendly chap called Marco greets me with a smile while I look at the endless showcase of wine bottles with amazement. It feels a bit like a walking tour through Italy, as I recognise wines from all the regions.
Suddenly, the words of Clifton Fadiman come to mind: “If food is the body of good living, wine is its soul.” Here, if I give credit to his opinion, there is certainly a selection wide enough to find the essence of a happy life. Marco, international director of Ga.Dò, explains with pride how he personally designed and assembled the articulated wooden display which presents traditional, premium and class selection wines. Bottles range from $20 for a Bonarda to $100 for a Chianti. They are not cheap, but the quality is assured and certified.
Through a small window I catch a glimpse of the kitchen, where an Italian chef from Florence is making my pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella, black olives, ham and mushrooms. While waiting, I order a glass of house wine ($3), which turns out to be quite full in body and very pleasant to drink. Food is served by Linda, who is also a sommelier and can explain the 50 shades of taste of their nectar of the gods.
I leave Bacco and Dionisio for a moment and finally taste my pizza capricciosa ($9). The original version is with green peppers, but I’ve asked for black olives instead. The preparation doesn’t take long and this steaming, mouth-watering pizza has an irresistibly thin, crunchy crust and a very rich flavour which reminds me of home. The chef reveals the secret: traditional recipe, fresh ingredients directly imported from Italy and a good stone oven.
Here they don’t bring you ketchup or crazy sauces to pour on top of the thick dough which in some places they still call ‘pizza’. If you are a true lover of the ultimate Made In Italy dish, you won’t be disappointed. Fancy a dish of pasta? Choose between spaghetti alla bolognese; with tuna and lime, with garlic and parsley and alla carbonara.
While eating, Adriano Celentano’s songs create a relaxing atmosphere with a touch of Italy, without excessive stereotyping or the old over-listened-to O Sole Mio, or even Sarà Perché Ti Amo. The pizzeria is cosy, but the long wooden table at the centre of the room provides a sense of conviviality. One more thing: Ga.Dò is probably the only place in Phnom Penh to sell Lemonsoda and Oransoda, the famous Italian refreshing drinks made with flesh of the fruit combined with lemon and orange juice.
Ga.Dò, #110 Street 136; 097 5477010.