He sells spaghetti & sea fish by the seashore
Since Olive & Olive (so good they named it twice) first opened its doors in Sihanoukville, it’s been one of my favourite restaurants. It’s a distinctly Mediterranean eatery, offering dishes from the countries that border that sea. Even from the outside, the traditional wood-fired pizza oven and décor hints at somewhere on the Etruscan coast.
Succulent specials vary, including braised lamb shanks ($12) and fish papillot for two ($16): a wonderfully marinated fresh fish cooked in said wood-fired oven. Antipasti, salads and appetisers fall between $2 and $6, with free pitta bread, fresh from the oven, delivered gratis alongside a range of dips and a tasty mini pizza. For your main course, choose from dishes such as the penne in salsa di asparagi, beef fillet tartufata, or of course those wood-fired pizzas ($6 to $16).
My dining companion went for the spaghetti alla tonno e gambretti; a seafood pasta with fresh shrimps and tuna, extra virgin olive oil, white wine and fresh parsley. I couldn’t help sampling some, and the combination of sweet and sour flavours with fresh ingredients and succulent shrimps was pretty close to perfection.
With the sea just a few yards from our table, I also went for something that had been swimming freely a short time before: the slightly longwinded but sublime filetto di barracuda alla erbe aromatiche o al vino bianco (barracuda fillet with aromatic herbs and a white wine sauce). I’ve eaten barracuda all over the world, but this was a winner. Barracuda can be a funny fish to cook; a little too much cooking time, or not enough, can spoil the dish, so the chef has his timing just right and the balance of herbs and wine sauce complement it perfectly.
Alas, things began to go wrong when the waiter neglected to mention that around 75% of the dessert menu was not available (on a Wednesday?). Only two desserts were on offer – could they be the decadence we were hoping for? Something had changed since my last visit (or the pastry/dessert chef was on holiday). The Baileys Note, previously a masterpiece in presentation and taste, looked as if it had been lying in the fridge for days. This was also reflected in the taste: still pleasant, but nowhere near the sweet sensuality it previously embodied. The second dessert, a chocolate cream concoction, was better presented and tasted better, but this element of the menu needs work to get it back to what it once was. Finally, to end on a bright spot: look out for the presence of Olive & Olive’s owner, the ever-affable Mr Corey, who always makes a point of personally checking in on his diners.
Olive & Olive, Serendipity Road, Sihanoukville; 086 283151.