There’s a very good reason Sandan has consistently topped the list of restaurants in Sihanoukville on review sites such as Trip Advisor. And it’s not simply the altruism on which it was founded as part of NGO M’Lop Tapang, which trains disadvantaged Khmer youth in every aspect of the hospitality industry. No, it’s definitely the food: taking traditional Khmer and Asian dishes and giving them a modern twist/a sprinkling of magic. It’s also one of the most attractive eating spaces in this part of Cambodia; a veritable oasis of greenery and ambience that gently rocks you into relaxation before the food even arrives.
The menu has four main sections: salads and starters, fish and seafood, meat, and vegetarian options. Think spicy green papaya and cherry tomato salad with lime-and-palm-sugar dressing; braised clams with lemongrass and spicy basil; Khmer Muslim beef and peanut curry; pumpkin amok with zucchini and cauliflower (from $3 to $8).
There were three of us dining. Companion #1 went for the Khmer spicy grilled chicken kebabs with green papaya pickles ($4.50): perfection on a plate. Tender chicken with just the right level of spice for tourists, and flavoursome papaya pickles to tantalise; a moreish combo if ever there was one, as Companion #1 declared loudly.
Companion #2 (apologies if this is getting a little Tolkienesque) wandered into Seafood Mordor and ordered the stir-fried squid with green Kampot pepper, capsicum and Khmer rice wine. I’m not a huge squid fan, but the merging of multiple flavours, coupled with succulent squid, was enough to have Gollum pawning his ‘precious’. I would love to pass on Companion #2’s lengthy eloquence, but the only response I got was: “Nom, nom, nom.”
Finally, Gandalf The Grey got to eat (I really need some hair dye). I plumped for a variation of one of my favourite Khmer dishes: buffalo loklak with quail eggs and sweet-potato fries. Alas, first disappointment of the night: no quail eggs left, so chicken egg instead, but any concern the buffalo may be a little tough was dispelled immediately. The meat was beautifully tender and infused with flavours that had my gustatory perception somewhere in Rivendell. Divine, from the quality of the meat to the spiciness of the dipping sauce, this is the finest lok lak ever to pass this critic’s cynical lips.
Final word goes to the service. There’s an abundance of servers and they’re attentive, friendly and enthusiastic, but please remember they’re still in training. And be patient when they tell you the specials of the day: it’spart of their training and helps improve English-language skills at the same time.
Sandan Restaurant, #2 Thnou Street, Sihanoukville; 034 4524000.