The wisdom of street vendors

On the streets of Phnom Penh and Vienna, a man with a self-produced oven waits for busy passers-by to slow their pace and join him for a free lunch. It takes two hours for a meal to be prepared on that primitive stove, long enough to make two perfect strangers a bit closer, share some humorous jokes and reflect together on the crazy race of urban life. Who is this man? Why is he doing this?

Rainer Prohaska, Austrian artist of international fame, is one of the six protagonists of On The Streets, showcased at Java Arts until February 22. The exhibition is a comparative look at the effects of migration and global capital in Phnom Penh and other locations, through the observation of street vendor culture.

But let’s go back to the man and the oven. “The world of street vendors is pure fascination to me. I have been working on street life thematic for almost 15 years,” Rainer says. The Viennese artist, who takes his cooking projects around the world, often makes kitchens out of shopping carts, symbolising the dynamism of street life and nomadic society.

Dialogue is another important element in Rainer’s art. This form of confrontation, to him, is a way we can see the other and not lose ourselves. As English poet John Donne said: “No man is an island.” Therefore, in this hectic world where people are too self-focused and distracted by urban life, projects like these remind us never to forget the importance of social interaction as a mean of growth. “I do more or less what people here in the streets do, using kitchen tools as a space for conversation. I always seek the participation of the audience. The rule is that people have to cook with me and use this time as a moment of sharing and confrontation.”

This project is one of many interesting artworks in On The Streets. On the ground floor, Sandrine Lloquet’s sculptural installation catches the eye. The artist turned a juice-and-coffee cart into a curiosity cabinet. An old drum, mysterious stones, a dusty book, glass ampoules and other enigmatic found objects talk about past stories and open up a space for meditation.

In a liquid time of globalisation and continuous changes, this installation is an invitation not to forget our own roots and identity, without foregoing a healthy curiosity and sense of wonder towards what differs from us. Only in this way people can avoid being dispersed in the levelling ocean of modern life.

Ashley Billingsley, Margaret Honda, Amy Lee Sanford and Kong Vollak complete this comparative exhibition made of chorographical artistic actions which bring visitors to a journey down the streets of Boston, Los Angeles, Phnom Penh, Saigon and Vienna. Are you ready to embark?

WHO: All and sundry
WHAT: On The Streets exhibition
WHERE: Java Arts, #56 Sihanouk Blvd.
WHEN: Until February 22
WHY: Avoid being dispersed in the levelling ocean of modern life

 

Caffeine connoisseur

The explosion of commercial caffeine peddlers in BKK at last shows signs of maturing. Tarrazu, a new specialty roaster on Street 370, trades exclusively in imported Arabica. The names sound like mysterious grape varietals or exotic strains of cannabis: Brazilian Yellow Bourbon, Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, Indonesian Mandheling. Ordering a cup is like scoring caffeine from the Smithsonian. There’s a climate-controlled cold room out back for bean storage and a custom-made bookshelf showcasing a dozen different strainers, each imparting its own character with a unique shape and groove. A tray of roasted bean samples illustrates the roasting range from light-medium to French to Italian. An industrial-strength German roasting machine sits in a glass showroom out front. Tarrazu sells ground roast by the 100 grams ($7+) and hot- and cold-brewed joe by the cup ($4).

Tarrazu Specialty Coffee Roaster, #340 Street 370.

 

Darkness & Light

SATURDAY 15 | Male and female. Fire and water. Dark and light. Life and death. Many natural forces that might at first seem contrary are in fact complementary, a concept embodied in the yin yang of Chinese philosophy. Together, such forces interact to create a sum far greater than their parts. Such is the case with Krom (Khmer for ‘the group’), quite possibly the most reclusive band in Cambodia. Public performances are rare; interviews even more so. In Krom, whose Neon Dark was declared album of the year by the BBC’s Mark Coles last year, East meets West. Mournful delta blues guitar mingles with celestial Cambodian vocals. Tales of human atrocities are tinged with the slightest suggestion of hope. Angelic opera singers Sophea and Sopheak Chamroeun are backed by Australian guitarist Christopher Minko, a man onto whose features more than a thousand lifetimes have been etched.

WHO: Krom
WHAT: A rare public performance
WHERE: Doors, #18 Street 84 & 47
WHEN: 9pm February 15
WHY: They’re elusive, reclusive and exclusive

 

Technicolour turntablism

SATURDAY 15 | Twice World Champion DJ Woody, who has shared the stage with everyone from the Beastie Boys to Snoop Doggy Dogg, presents ‘a completely original, eye-popping and crowd-rocking audio/visual DJ performance using 100% bespoke material’.

WHO: DJ Woody
WHAT: Live AV & DJ set
WHERE: Code Red, opposite Naga World, next to Koh Pich Bridge
WHEN: 3pm February 15
WHY: If he’s good enough to win the DMC not once but twice…

 

Noise monsters

SATURDAY 15 | The vodka-soaked rantings of a Finnish madman high on acid and crumbling under the pressure of meth-induced paranoia wouldn’t sound nearly as disturbed as Phnom Penh’s oldest, loudest, craziest and by far and away most freakishly entertaining noise monsters, Bum N’ Draze. Joining them tonight are newly reformed indie rockers the Teaner Terners, plus the Stiff Little Punks. Brace for a hurricane of untamed, angry screams that assault the senses and insult the intellect.

WHO: Bum N Draze, Teaner Terners & Stiff Little Punks
WHAT: Noise monsters
WHERE: Sharky Bar, #126 Street 130
WHEN: 8pm February 15
WHY: It’s going to be scandalous

 

Per say

FRIDAY 14 | A big tent next to the Coengebouw in Amsterdam; on the beach in Wijk aan Zee; in warehouses on the Javakad: house hero DJ Per has been spinning since 1984, released multiple albums and tonight he’s all yours for an evening of ‘tension, groove and constraint’ (tickets: $8, including free drink).

WHO: DJ Per (Netherlands)
WHAT: House trip
WHERE: Pontoon, #80 Street 172
WHEN: 10pm February 14
WHY: He’s big in Holland

 

Let the sun go down

FRIDAY 14 | DJs Donabelle, Alan Ritchie and Sequence usher in sunset on the Tonle Sap with house tunes, a free drink, food by Da Sandro Panini Bar AND free entry to Code Red afterwards where NY house legend Bert Bevans will take the helm until the wee hours. Tickets ($10) can be reserved by calling 089 491039 or bought at Code Red and Da Sandro Panini Bar.

WHO: DJs Bert Bevans, Donabelle, Alan Ritchie and Sequence
WHAT: Sunbodia Boat Party
WHERE: The Tonle Sap and, later, at Code Red, opposite Naga World (near Koh Pich Bridge)
WHEN: 4pm February 14
WHY: Let the sun go down in style