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Byline: Adolfo Perez-Gascon

Four dumplings and a wedding

Four dumplings and a wedding

Summer of 2014. It is a sweltering evening in June and I am sitting with a group of friends at Sam Doo, a popular Chinese restaurant near Central Market. We have all gathered here to celebrate the return of one of my best buddies following a lengthy trip home. He is running a bit late, and I absentmindedly start skimming the room.

The decor strikes me as flamboyant and incongruent: the walls alternate between colours of salmon and pistachio while laminated posters advertising alcohol serve as art. A shiny Chinese shrine ornamented with Christmas lights looms conspicuously over the door, its lights flickering on and off.

My friend finally enters. Lucio looks a bit fatter and his rosy cheeks denote a lack of sunshine and an indulgent lifestyle. His face beams with an exultant smile, and I can sense that something big has happened. He cannot wait a second longer and spills the news: he just got engaged. To our surprise, his fiancé is in town and will be joining us later.

As we digest the overwhelming news, the table fills with all kinds of dumplings, wonton soups, bottles of Tsingtao beer and cups of tea. All around me, I can hear the unmistakable fast, choppy sound of Mandarin.

The dumpling egg noodle soup with BBQ pork ($3.50) is authentic. The fat wontons are the very definition of juiciness and tenderness. I bring the whole bowl to my lips and enjoy the salty, flavourful, dark broth. Irresistible youmian noodles (thin egg noodles) complete this great dish.

The steamed dumplings have that sticky, supple consistency and juicy innards that characterise good dim sum cuisine. The phoenix dumplings ($2.20) are bite-sized packages of dainty shrimp, while the BBQ meat dumplings ($2) come in the form of fat parcels of succulent pork and tasty vegetables. In comparison, the deep-fried wontons ($6.5) seem a little bland. Not only are they lacking flavour, they are also a bit pricey.

We wrap up with fried meat cakes ($2): sesame-covered deep-fried dough enveloping lumps of minced pork; the sweet-savoury dichotomy is very satisfying.

All in all, Sam Doo serves good, honest Cantonese food that will not disappoint connoisseurs of Chinese cuisine. Its extensive menu covers a wide array of dim sum dishes and other Chinese delights. The service is not great, but it does the trick. Taking the quality of the food into consideration, the price is not bad: for a full meal, expect to pay $6 to $8 per person, including beer. Toilets are clean and well stocked. Finding a parking spot for your car might prove impossible, so best to come here by other means.

I come back from the bathroom only to encounter Lucio standing near the table, leaning over the figure of a woman. Her arched back is supported by Lucio’s right arm and their lips are conjoined in a passionate kiss.

She straightens up and I have a clear view of her face. It takes me a second to assimilate what I find, but when I do a shiver runs down my spine. We both try our best to suppress our reactions, but from the petrified look in her eyes I can see that she recognizes me.

“This is Soklang, my future wife,” Lucio announces with a triumphant grin.

To be continued…

Sam Doo, #56 Kampuchea Krom

Posted on January 9, 2015January 8, 2015Categories FoodLeave a comment on Four dumplings and a wedding
I Know What I Did Last Summer

I Know What I Did Last Summer

It’s funny how something that seemed to lay dormant in the past can suddenly resurface and start haunting you. It was a fleeting moment of passion on a torrid June afternoon that forced me to succumb to my most primal instincts. In the process, I wrecked somebody’s heart; someone that religiously adheres to the “eye for an eye” philosophy.

This evening I dined with the provocative woman who started it all, and ironically, the only person who can put a stop to Lucio’s thirst for vengeance.

Che Culo looks like an elegant warehouse with teak floors, tall, vaulted ceilings and a simple, minimalist décor. Embedded into the walls are stylish dining booths that run along the entire West side with seats strategically placed under tall arches. There is a warm and refined light that fills the spacious building, imbuing it with charm; I know she will feel at home right away.

Outside on the exotic lush terrace a woman of merciless, sophisticated beauty sits on a low wooden bench; her exposed, sensuous shoulders bathe in the timid light of an early moon. It has been a year and a half since I saw her last. She drinks a classy espresso martini ($4.5). I sit next to her and, defying the most basic notions of Spanish virility, order a senoritas delight ($4.5). Both cocktails are perfectly concocted. Mine is fruity, delicious, and as its name suggests, stereotypically girly.

The menu is simple and small, which scores a point in my book. The “share plates” (all the dishes mentioned below) are $5.50, while the “specials” (e.g. lamb kofta spoons with yoghurt) are $7. The sides, like patatas bravas, are $3.

We give the cheerful and obliging Australian waitress carte blanche to impress us. She starts with a wooden slate board lined with three different dips and supple pita chips: the beetroot dip has an earthy, subtle taste; the pumpkin with feta cheese is creamy and downright irresistible; the eggplant, with garlic and Kampot pepper, is zesty and aromatic.

Next, the waitress brings zucchini and feta fritters. The tomato and onion sauce (“bravas sauce”, according to the menu) is spicy and flavorful, a perfect complement to the tender and juicy pieces of fried zucchini.
Lastly, we are presented with a clay pot of pork and beef meatballs with a thick tomato sauce. We both agree, this is our least favourite dish. It is good, but unlike the other plates, it lacks creativity and it is perhaps a bit bland.

That being said, Che Culo runs pretty smoothly for its first day; the food and service we enjoyed was, for the most part, of unmistakable quality. I predict that after the initial chaos subsides, this little tapas spot will become a favourite of many expats, including myself.

“Last summer you ruined his life,” my dining companion abruptly states matter-of-factly. She slowly raises her gaze from her cocktail and pierces my soul with a burning glance.

“You also ruined mine.”

To be continued…

Che Culo, Street 302, #6B.

Posted on December 26, 2014December 26, 2014Categories FoodLeave a comment on I Know What I Did Last Summer
Feasting with the enemy

Feasting with the enemy

I enter Choi Go Jip, a Korean restaurant on Street 360 effusively recommended by savvy friends. It’s still early, not even 10:30 in the morning, and the restaurant is predominantly empty. The place makes me feel a little uneasy: the bare walls, wide corridors, frail light seeping through large windows. It’s all too diaphanous for my taste. Too cold. Quite fitting for such a meeting, perhaps?

I sit at a table encased in waist-high wooden planks – a grill pit occupies the centre, akin to typical Korean gogi gui – and anxiously await my companion’s arrival. After a couple of minutes, a tall, bald man, brandishing a despicable goatee, enters the restaurant. He takes a seat in front of me.

To ease the tension I order a bottle of makgeolli ($6), a rice alcoholic beverage. It’s delicious. In fact, it is so good that I gulp three bowls on the spot. Its sweet, refreshing flavour goes down with extreme ease. He chugs a bowl then slams it hard against the table.

We each order a large bowl of bibimbap ($7) and decide to share the LA ribs ($15). I ask God for that to be the only thing we share today. The waitress removes the cover and carefully places the meat onto the grill as another waitress places myriad pickled side dishes along the table, creating a kaleidoscopic effect. You have everything from fermented soybeans to kimchi pancakes. Armed with scientific curiosity, I dive in, sampling each one.

They are all savoury and spicy.

As the meat sizzles on the grill, a mouthwatering aroma caresses our nostrils. I dig in first. I pick up a piece with chopsticks and bring it to my mouth. It’s tender and delicious. My companion follows suit and stuffs some meat and kimchi into a lettuce wrap, bringing the entire thing to his mouth. He bites into it and an expression of pure bliss takes over his roguish visage. As I watch him, I have a frightful epiphany: only self-centred, hedonistic bastards are capable of experiencing such profound elation.

Bibimbap is my favorite Korean dish, served in the traditional, piping hot earthenware pot, and the one placed in front of me does not disappoint. Maybe I have had more flavourful MSG-enhanced versions, but this one is great; light, fresh and with no unnecessary oil. The burnt rice stuck to the bottom is irresistible.

Not a word is spoken as we devour the amazing Korean spread. The silence only heightens the tension, now a thick ether filling the empty space between us. I finish chewing, swallow, and look him in the eye. It’s time to talk business. ‘Why are you back, Lucio?’ His face contorts into a smirk. “Unfinished business, my friend.”

I keep my poker face, reach for some more meat and stuff it into the lettuce. ‘Lucio, I just hope you aren’t still thinking about last summer.’
To be continued…

Choi Go Jip, #31 Street 360; 023 964 112

Posted on December 19, 2014December 23, 2014Categories FoodLeave a comment on Feasting with the enemy
Return of the nemesis

Return of the nemesis

I don’t mean to brag, but I got the wild-haired, dreamy-eyed girl’s number. It wasn’t such a stupid pick-up line after all.

Today, for our first date, I bring her to La Plaza, a Spanish restaurant in BKK1 that I’ve heard a lot about. I can tell right away that the girl has class: she orders a glass of Manzanilla wine. I haven’t have this sherry wine, autochthonous of my province, for quite some time, so I follow in her footsteps and get myself a glass. It’s salty, tangy and very refreshing.

The restaurant is decorated like a Sevilian patio, with flowerpots hanging from the wall and fanciful ceramic illustrations. Except for a lone man in the corner reading a newspaper, we are alone. Romantic…

The tapas start flowing in. First to come is salmorejo, a thick tomato soup topped with sprinkles of Spanish cured ham and boiled egg ($4). I bring a spoonful to my mouth and go directly into Spanish heaven: it’s refreshingly pungent and delicious.

The ‘broken’ eggs with chorizo (huevos rotos con chorizo) ($4.50) don’t reach the level of culinary achievement of the salmorejo, but they’re still pretty darn good.

The dish comes in the traditional ceramic pot. It consists of a layer of very tender potatoes at the bottom covered by perfectly done fried eggs with fat pieces of chorizo scrambled everywhere. The chorizo is great; piquant and with a pleasant, penetrating aftertaste.

And then, the fish croquettes (croquetas de pescado, $3.50). They are creamy and chunky in the inside, just how they should be. Now, I’m usually intransigent with my croquetas. My mother makes the best croquetas in the word, so, no matter where I go, I’m always disappointed when I order this typical Spanish dish. But these ones are good; not as good as Mum’s, but definitely better than what you get in most restaurants out there. They would be good even if I were in Spain. I tip my hat to the chef.

Finally, the waiter brings the pan tumaca ($2.50). There’s not much to this dish: it’s just bread with tomato spread on it, a bit of garlic and olive oil. Couldn’t be simpler. In this case, as the old adage goes, less is definitely more. As we’re enjoying the last loaves of pan tumaca, I catch a glimpse of the man in the back. He lowers the newspaper to nose level and his eyes peek over the top of the pages. It can’t be. He’s back: my archenemy! I would recognise those little mean eyes, that shiny bald head and that stupid attempt at a goatee anywhere.

The man stands up and goes to the counter behind me. As he passes, I try to ignore him and focus on the conversation with my date. But it’s not going to be that easy: she’s starting to throw quick glances in the direction of the bar, adopting coquettish poses. I hear footsteps. The man approaches our table and looks at me with an evil squint and mischievous grin. Without taking his eyes off mine, he takes her hand, bends down and lands a kiss on it.

To be continued.

La Plaza, #22b Street 278; 012 415734

Posted on December 13, 2014December 11, 2014Categories FoodLeave a comment on Return of the nemesis
Heart of Havana

Heart of Havana

With just 67kg of compact body mass, the 27-year-old Cuban is hardly imposing at first glance. Most professional boxers in Cambodia have at least a couple of inches on him, yet almost all of them refuse to confront him in the ring. I’m here at Bayon BTV stadium to find out why.

On this November afternoon, the air feels a little cooler and lighter; perhaps we’re finally entering the Cambodian ‘winter’. Walking towards the tent, I hear the overexcited shouts of the crowd. Inside, the air’s stuffy and the screams louder. The spotlight rests on two thin, muscular figures in the ring. Only one seems to be dispensing punches; the other is crouching, protecting his face and ribs with both arms. The fighter administering the terrible punishment glistens with sweat; Reymi’s rapacious eyes peer determinedly from behind his blue gloves. The Cuban unleashes a terrifying uppercut to his opponent’s chin; the young Khmer stumbles and falls on his buttocks. The crowd goes mad with excitement.

Reymi is one of only a handful of foreign boxers trotting the rings of Phnom Penh. Last year he left Cuba for the first time to pursue a career as a professional boxer, something he wasn’t able to do in his native country: there, boxing is an amateur sport that pays laughable wages. In an epic journey around Southeast Asia, he faced opponents in Thailand and the Philippines to improve his technique, and trained for three months at a renowned gym in Cebu. In March he arrived in Cambodia, where he’s since struggled to find anyone willing to challenge him. An undefeated record and a career that includes encounters with ex-world champs Guillermo Rigondeaux and Vasyl Lomachenko, and sparring sessions with Nonito Donaire, leaves little wonder most folk think twice before taking him on.

Reymi fought Rigondeaux as an amateur in 2003, when he was 16 and Rigondeaux was already Olympic champion from the Athens games in 2000. Rigondeux won, but it was a much tougher fight than anyone anticipated and the young challenger put up a good fight. In 2007, still as an amateur, Reymi fought Lomachenko, already amateur world champ. Lomachenko won by unanimous decision. Here in the stadium today, Reymi is a powerhouse: fast and fierce. He’s also smart.

A tall, rather imposing man stands at one side of the ring, close to the ropes, watching Reymi’s every move. He wears navy blue pants and a purple T-shirt bearing the Cambodian flag. Commandingly, he shouts instructions to the Cuban fighter. His name is Rolando. Like everyone in the stadium, he knows the fight will soon be over. Reymi throws a powerful hook that connects with his opponent’s temple. For a fraction of a second, the stadium goes completely quiet. The Khmer fighter wobbles and falls flat on his back. KO.

Rolando is Reymi’s coach. He’s also his father. Their stories are very different, but both are testimony to the courageous spirit of those willing to make one of the biggest sacrifices a person can make: to leave the land that has nourished you; leave the country you love. Rolando was an established and reputed boxing coach in Havana when one day he got a phone call from the Cuban government. He was told he had been selected to take part in a very special programme to improve athletic performance in underdeveloped nations. “I was told to pack up,” he says. “I was going to Cambodia to train the national team.”

Rolando left Cuba in 2010, for the first time in his life, and came to the Kingdom. The agreement between Havana and Phnom Penh stipulated a lease of two years to train a group of promising young fighters. For Havana, for Phnom Penh and for Rolando, the goal was clear: to reach podium in the 2011 Southeast Asian Games in Jakarta.

It wasn’t going to be easy. For starters, the trainers and fighters shared no common language. And the fighters, although talented athletes, were no boxers: they were Kun Khmer fighters. Elbowing, kneeing and kicking, vestiges of a life dedicated to the Cambodian fighting style, had to be completely eradicated from their collective arsenal. “One of the biggest challenges was to make them stop using their legs,” says Rolando. “They also needed to start thinking like boxers and become smarter in the ring. They were raw power and speed, but they weren’t able to analyse the fights and come up with strategies. They had to develop that craftiness a boxer relies on to win fights.”

As is so often the case with these things, they had to happen fast. Rolando had just 12 months to instruct his fighters in the Cuban boxing style, based on quick footwork, a strong defence and long combinations of punches. Strenuous training sessions were set, and the young fighters worked like never before.

With patience and care on both sides, eventually a language developed between trainer and students. It wasn’t Khmer, nor was it English or Spanish, but something entirely new. Open lines of communication gave rise first to mutual understanding then to affection, all based on the sharing of a common goal. Today, when Rolando talks about his “boys”, his face softens and he smiles with pride. The hard work paid off: just a year after his introduction as coach of the Cambodian boxing team, the country claimed three bronzes – among its finest Olympic results to date.

When the time came for Rolando to return home, Cuba was waiting for him. In Havana Airport the morning he was due to arrive, a group of relatives and government officials gathered by the passenger exit, eager to welcome him home. Hours passed. Rolando never showed up.

The Cuban, in clear defiance of his own government, failed to board the Havana-bound plane. Instead, he chose to stay put here in Cambodia. He had invested too much in his boys and wanted to take them further: “I wanted to do better; reach higher.” The transgression cost him dearly: the Cuban government punished Ronaldo’s defection by banning him from entering his island home for five years. He was no longer welcome in the land that he loved.

Next year, at the 2015 Southeast Asian Games in Singapore, Rolando will find out whether the sacrifice was worth it. He insists the team is ready to take four medals; convinced that Pech Tola, Takaman and Vorn Viva will, at least, secure bronze. With a ischievous grin, he notes he has one more card up his sleeve: “He will take gold, but I can’t tell you who he is. He’s my secret weapon.”

Rolando’s ambitions extend beyond the regional games: he dreams of leading his team to the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro. Achieving this would be the pinnacle of his career. But while Ronaldo dreams of Olympic glory, his son Reymi’s ambitions are no longer confined to the ring. The young Cuban pugilist still has the potential to make it as a professional boxer, but he has lost something important: he no longer craves being a sensation in the ring. Without a manager who believes in him and is able to find suitable opponents, and without the money to fight outside Cambodia, Reymi’s boxing ambitions have dwindled. Now, all he wants is to settle in Phnom Penh and get a job that allows him to sustain his family back in Havana. But while their ambitions may be different, father and son share one hope for the future: to return to Cuba, the land where they threw their very first punches.

Posted on December 12, 2014December 11, 2014Categories SportLeave a comment on Heart of Havana
Close encounters of the Japanese kind

Close encounters of the Japanese kind

So, it seems last week’s review wasn’t actually my last. I leave Freebird and wander aimlessly around the city for several hours. The scorching sun slowly dips behind the horizon and a feverish blue moon takes its place in the firmament.

Suddenly, I realise I have walked all the way to Aeon Mall. Still a bit under the weather, I figure some Japanese food might cheer me up; a nice, peaceful dinner. But destiny, that capricious son of a gun, has far more interesting plans for me.

It’s late at night and the mall is a much quieter place. I climb to the second floor and head towards one of the few conveyor-belt restaurants in town, Kaihomaru Sushi. Ten bucks grant me the right to eat as much as I want for an hour and a half. I brace myself.

It looks legit. One detail stands out: a lone woman sits near the wall by the conveyor belt; a wild mane of fluffy curls and big eyes that are dreamy yet audacious. She’s sitting upright on her stool, shooting determined glances at the rotating sushi. Gracefully and with restraint, she reaches for a plate.

I want to sit on the vacant stool to her left, but I chicken out, instead half-heartedly occupying a seat next to a chubby Chinese kid with a voracious appetite. Bad idea: all the good stuff disappears into thin air as soon as it’s within his reach.

The pieces of sushi, on tiny elegant plates, aren’t as big as they could be. For $10, I expect my sushi full-size. The salmon (sake nigiri) and the scallop (hotate nigiri) have that smooth, fleshy texture and fresh taste that make sushi-junkies out of perfectly good people. But the tuna (maguro nigiri) is a weirdly bright colour, almost radioactive, and tastes dull. A bigger disappointment is that some of my favourites – freshwater eel (unagi nigiri) and corn sushi ship (tomorokoshi gunkan maki) – are completely absent from the conveyer belt.

Perhaps the kid has eaten them all. Finally, he leaves and I now have a full view of the girl, who graces me with a smile. I stand up and head towards the buffet area. It looks a lot better than the sushi belt.

You have miso soup, karaage chicken, potato korokke (croquette), soba, tamagoyaki (Japanese omelette) and okonomiyaki. The karaage chicken is perfectly crunchy and juicy. The tamagoyaki is good, but not as sweet as I remember it from my days in Japan. The miso is definitely a double thumbs-up. Almost everything here is delicious, and I can tell the food has been expertly prepared by Japanese hands; the chef, who I later meet, is a good-humoured fellow from near Tokyo.

I turn towards the girl, Magnum pose adopted, and hit her with my best line: “Excuse me, I couldn’t help but notice that you look a lot like my next girlfriend…”

Kaihomaru Sushi, Aeon Mall (3rd Floor), Sothearos Blvd.

Posted on December 6, 2014December 4, 2014Categories FoodLeave a comment on Close encounters of the Japanese kind
Gods & Angels: The dressing of deities

Gods & Angels: The dressing of deities

Sophiline Cheam Shapiro, founder/artistic director of Khmer Arts and a key protagonist in the revival of Cambodian classical dance forms, introduces Gods & Angels, a new exhibition showcasing some of the most spectacular hand-sewn costumes – which can take up to six months to make – she has designed for the stage during her 33-year career.

How did you choose which costumes to show in this exhibition?
It’s an exhibition of the most interesting costumes I have used between 2000 and 2006, for the dance pieces Samritechak (2000), The Glass Box (2002), Seasons of Migration (2005) and Pamina Devi (2006). You will be able to see a total of 12 costumes: four large, four medium and four small ones.

Does the show serve a higher purpose?
I want people to see how the many costumes I have used over the years for my works play a role in the wider context of Cambodian culture. The costumes you will see follow the traditional style: that is, the pre-Khmer Rouge style. As you know, the Khmer Rouge made it a point to obliterate dancers; of course, they also wanted to destroy all trace of the costumes they used.

Over the years, I have used traditional costumes in my choreography in an attempt to bring them back to the collective consciousness and reverse the damage inflicted by the Khmer Rouge. I work with five different costume makers. One is particularly interesting, because he learnt the trade from his mother, a costume maker who survived the Khmer Rouge. I want people to learn about the way costumes looked prior to 1979, but I also want people to compare these traditional costumes to contemporary ones and see the evolution.

And you had a hand in the design of each costume, we hear…
I developed an understanding of how a costume should look like through my experience as a dancer and choreographer. When you are in the business as long as I have been, you develop a sense of how everything – from music to costumes – should work. My input, as far as design goes, concerns the choice of patterns, as well as the general size and shape of the costumes.

Is there one particular costume that has special meaning to you?
I have a special regard for the male lead’s costume of Samritechak, the dance piece that I based on Othello. This costume generally surprises audiences: the protagonist exemplifies the ‘macho’ persona, yet the costume is beautifully embroidered, sparkly and perhaps a bit feminine. The piece was staged as part of the Venice Biennale in 2003.

The curator of the festival, Peter Sellars, was very interested in the way I had ‘transformed’ the male protagonist, Othello, for my piece, including the choice of costume. He later revealed that my choreography had inspired him to team up with Toni Morrison and write the play Desdemona.

What’s next?
I’m working on a new choreography for a dance piece, with the working title Kings of Desire. It will be based on the courtship between my husband and I when we first met, and the love story that developed. Him Sophy is already working on the music. Some of the issues I want to touch upon are love, commitment and identity.

WHO: Sophiline Cheam Shapiro
WHAT: Gods & Angels costume exhibition
WHERE: Java Arts Café, #56 Sihanouk Blvd.
WHEN: 6:30pm December 3 – January 25
WHY: Discover classical dance costumes in the traditional Chaktomuk style

Posted on December 2, 2014November 27, 2014Categories ArtLeave a comment on Gods & Angels: The dressing of deities
Freebird Bar & Grill: Where the heart is

Freebird Bar & Grill: Where the heart is

I wanted to do something special this week and I was willing, as Rocky would put it, to ‘go the distance’. Why? This is probably my last Dish column. I wanted to find the ideal place: a restaurant with a good reputation, yet not hugely popular; one that hasn’t been reviewed a million times already. A place with character; somewhere that stands out. I wanted to transcend the boundaries of mere food critic and give you a heart-felt recommendation.

I sat down in front of my computer and thought. I thought for a long time. Nothing. A change of setting might help; I visited a dozen cafes. Then I walked along Riverside, mentally skimming. Still nothing. The thought I might be leaving Phnom Penh, coupled with the fact I felt totally stuck on what to review, brought my spirits down. I headed to one of my favorite spots, hoping it would help me think straight.

Like always, I felt immediately at home. The typically soulful southern US atmosphere – walls bristling with a zillion gadgets and black-and-white pictures of famous musicians and athletes – gave me that warm, cosy feeling I’d been craving. The warm, placid light from the ceiling lamps (the heavy curtains are almost always closed) made me feel like I was in a cave, safe and secluded from the outside world. I sat by the corner and made myself comfortable, feeling better already.

The perky, ever-smiling waitress approached. I browsed the huge menu, full of American classics, interesting specials and ample cocktails, and settled on meatloaf with mash potatoes ($5.75) and a draft anchor ($1.75). Waiting for my food, I sank into the sofa, sporadically reaching for the sweet peanuts and huge basket of popcorn on my table. Suddenly my good friend Soklang appeared, sat by my side and ordered chicken cordon bleu ($7.50). Serendipity.

The meatloaf was impeccable: tender and piquant, it outshone those I used to devour as a high-school student in New England. As I dug into it, the block of meat slowly, effortlessly, crumbled. It was covered with a delicious sweet sauce. The mash potatoes were creamy and salty. Soklang was also happy. Her cordon bleu came in the form of two breaded balls of chicken, with a cheesy heart enveloped in chunks of ham. I had a taste myself and the contrast presented by the cheese, by its creaminess and penetrating flavour, was surprising and satisfying. Steering another piece of meatloaf into my mouth, I had a revelation: Freebird would make a great review.

Freebird Bar & Grill, #69 Street 240; 023 224 712

Posted on December 1, 2014November 27, 2014Categories FoodLeave a comment on Freebird Bar & Grill: Where the heart is
Coriander: Good, but not Bundi-good

Coriander: Good, but not Bundi-good

Around this time last year, I was flipping chapattis on a tava under the gentle sun and chilled breeze that runs through the arid landscape of Rajasthan on November afternoons. Oddly enough, it was part of my new job: assistant to the chef at a popular restaurant in the tny and colorful village of Bundi. You might wonder what on Earth motivated me to take on such a bizarre position; the answer is simple: I love Indian cuisine, and I thought this was the best way to learn its intricacies.

My cooking mentor was the owner of the restaurant: an old, obese, hardheaded yet intriguingly wise and charming lady who everybody in town lovingly addressed as ‘Mamma’. It was her who taught me all I know when it comes to Indian cuisine. Whenever I met her expectations at cooking a particular dish, she would grin widely and say ‘this is Bundi-good’.

This week I took a friend to Coriander, a popular Indian-run vegetarian establishment on Street 71, not far from BKK1 market. Although the menu features plenty of Khmer and Western items, the bulk of its content is Indian.

We enter the glass door to encounter a simple, yet fitting décor: a couple of discreet mirrors and unassuming art on the walls, wooden tables and a sober timber bar. We sit down and soon the aroma of Indian spices drifting from the kitchen reaches my nostrils and switches on my appetite. Memories of kneading chapattis and preparing eggplant chutney with Mamma come rushing back.

The well-mannered waiter brings my order of lachha paratha ($1.50), onion paratha ($2), and vegetable korma ($4). The breads, I can tell right away, are good. I pinch the onion paratha and discover it has a supple, dead-on consistency. Its rich, piquant taste reveals a skillful handling of the spices. On the other hand, the lachha paratha, although it has a nice flavour to it, is too stiff, like it has been served an hour too late.

The vegetable korma is creamy and sweet, but not in a good way. Its overly milky texture is less than pleasant. It somehow manages to be too sweet, while at the same time having too much of a coriander kick.

I realise I still have space in my stomach to accommodate another dish. I ask the waiter for a recommendation; the best dish of the house. He brings me a bowl of baingan bartha ($4.50), accompanied with a round, beautiful-looking chapatti (50 cents). The baingan bartha is a real surprise. The eggplant is roasted to perfection and, together with the other vegetables and spot-on spices, forms a delicious mass of irresistible texture and racy flavour.

To put an end to this hit-and-miss Indian lunch, I order masala tea ($1). Now, here is the real test: good chai tea is an excellent barometer of the quality and genuineness of any Indian restaurant. I take a sip. It has the right flavour and aroma, but is missing some piquancy and that subtle ginger aftertaste. It’s good if we take into consideration that we are not in India; if I were in the subcontinent, I would be a bit disappointed. I guess that’s a statement that applies to the other dishes I have had today. I imagine what Mamma would do if she had shared this meal with me. She would look at me with squinting eyes and an exaggerated frown, and she would state: ‘It is good, but not Bundi-good.’

Coriander, #21 Street 71.

Posted on November 21, 2014November 20, 2014Categories FoodLeave a comment on Coriander: Good, but not Bundi-good
Black Bambu: Nobody calls me chicken

Black Bambu: Nobody calls me chicken

I simply cannot say ‘no’ to a dare. When someone tells me ‘I dare you’, my heartbeat picks up, my shoulders become all tense and something inside my brain switches off. I feel a rush of adrenaline overflowing my hypothalamus and clouding my judgment.

I squint, look the darer in the eye and, in true Marty McFly fashion, exclaim: ‘Nobody calls me chicken!’

It’s dinnertime on a Monday afternoon and I’m leisurely walking with a couple of friends down Street 228. We’re going to Black Bambu, a recently opened restaurant I’ve eyed for review. I can see my friends, a couple of Kiwi girls, giggling and whispering something in a secretive way. I get an ominous feeling: they are up to something. Finally, one of them steps forward. Her tone is frolicsome: “Adolfo, you know, we were thinking if you would dare to…” Allow me to summarise: they dare me to include a specific word (chosen by them, of course) in this review; a word to be revealed only after I accept the challenge. It goes without saying; I accept.

Entering Black Bambu’s perfectly kept garden, a spotless white statue of a meditating Buddha welcomes us with a nirvanic smile. We cross the big glass doors of the building and feel stupefied: the radiant white, diaphanous and elegant space opening in front of us reminds me of Hollywood’s depictions of Heaven. I almost expect Morgan Freeman to walk down the stairs at any moment (dressed in an immaculate white suit) and hand me a menu.

We sit at the terrace, where the breeze is surprisingly cool and pleasant, and stare at the beautifully put together menu of unambitious size (about 20 different tapas) and creative, mouth-watering items. Al, the manager and head chef, personally takes our order.

First come the cocktails. I know my sangria, and this is a good one: pieces of orange and apple float idly inside the generously sized cup; the sweet aftertaste of cinnamon is complemented by the timid tang of liquor. Smiling and attentive waiters start bringing the main courses. The ciabatta (made with grilled pear, goat cheese, bacon and caramelised onion) is spongy; biting into it, your mouth fills with the unmistakable warmness of just-out-of-the-oven French bread. The contrast between the savoury and sweet flavours is both perplexing and pleasing.

The mini Australian beef burgers – three cute little burgers served upon a stylish slate board – bring to mind the Latin phrase omne trium perfectum (‘everything that comes in threes is perfect’). With regard to tenderness, the patties fall nothing short of Kobe beef. The bits of pickle mixed with hand-made mayonnaise are the icing on the cake.

The desserts put a perfect ending to our hedonistic evening. The dulce de leche is an original and sophisticated take on the South American recipe, in which the chef ingeniously adds a top layer of whipped cream and a base of chocolate mixed with coconut oil. The result is a dessert so good that eating it fills you with shame, because, by the Universal Law of Opposites, you know something this good must inevitably be, in some way or another, terribly bad.

It’s during dessert that the mischievous Kiwi girls finally reveal their choice of word to be inserted into this review. I won’t take away the satisfaction of guessing which one it is. Let me simply end this piece by stating that Black Bambu is, without vacillation, one of the most outstanding upscale restaurants I’ve tried in Phnom Penh. Good luck guessing!

Black Bambu, #29 Street 228; 023 966 895

Posted on November 17, 2014November 15, 2014Categories FoodLeave a comment on Black Bambu: Nobody calls me chicken

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