Byline: Denise Dison

For me, like any true foodaholic, Kep conjures visions of succulent seafood caught then eaten at the beach, salty juices dripping down my chin. And while the bounty of the sea – and in particular the crabs that crawl along its edge – remains the most sought-after fare in this coastal town, more diverse flavours are bursting onto the scene, hinting of the faraway lands that inspired their creation.

Kimly Crab Market, Kep:

When in Kep, whether for a week or an hour, Kimly is a must. A modest shack of bamboo and wood poised above the shore, the scent of crab intoxicating, Kimly is Kep au naturel, at its rugged best. I couldn’t keep my hands off the local celebrities: crabs. At Kimly, they are fried with local pepper, steamed with garlic, mixed into fried rice, served in a pot of amok or simply grilled, and in every appearance they are smashing. No other fried rice can compare to Kimly’s crab fried rice, flavoured with crab juice, equally sweet and salty, with meaty morsels of crab sitting on top. Just as decadent are the fried crabs with Kampot green pepper, bursting with flavour – sweet, tart, subtly spicy. Once you’ve sucked out every last bit of flesh, you can prolong the ecstasy by dipping your bread in the sauce.Kimly offers a wide variety of fresh catch and none will disappoint (but please avoid rare species such as stingray and shark). I can still taste the steamed shrimp with garlic noodles, swimming in the tastiest juice of butter, garlic and shrimp.

Breezes, Route 33, Kep:

It’s hard to imagine the food could live up to the atmosphere of Breezes: shabby but chic, with canvas chairs on private little huts right on the sand, steps from the water. But it turns out they are perfectly matched and Breezes’ light tropical resort-style cuisine is just as charming as its ambience. Peruse the menu with a refreshing lemon granita in hand, then choose from Khmer, Chinese and Continental offerings created by Breezes’ Dutch proprietor. The crab dumplings were particularly imaginative and served like we’ve never seen, with chili and little balls of zesty green peppercorns that pop delightfully in the mouth. Shrimp in creamy Kampot pepper sauce was like a light curry, with interesting Thai-Khmer flavours. We loved the sweet, sour and spice in the squid in ginger and tamarind sauce, with so many sharp flavours in harmony.

The Strand, Knai Bang Chatt, Kep:

Having opened its doors late last year, The Strand is Knai Bang Chatt’s lastest fine-dining venue. The restaurant sits atop one of the resort’s retro-inspired houses, though you may dine al fresco at the main eatery, facing the sea. The Strand’s menu, created by their new South African chef, is what you would expect from any gourmet restaurant. The choices are trendy, of a fusion bent, and a three-course set meal is $25. Be prepared to linger and lounge: every dish is personally seen through by the chef and her attention to detail is evident; every plate on our table was a piece of art. The Strand’s cuisine is Asian-inspired and presented with artfully arranged greens and reds, evocative of nature. To start, the crab crackers and duck spring rolls were tasty. Mains options include seafood amok, steamed crabs, tamarind glazed pork belly and Angus beef strip loin. Everything we had was meticulously prepared and delicate; a world away from the resort’s other restaurant, The Sailing Club, which has a much more casual feel. The Strand gives Kep a sophisticated edge: a glam dining option for those who seek it.

 

We blinked and it happened. Like the teashops that pop up in every corner, the cafes that dot our town, there is no roaming about BKK1 these days without a new Japanese dive seemingly rising up from nowhere. And unlike the usual Japanese chain that serves a little bit of everything, these new haunts are reminiscent of little Tokyo joints, where just one specialised kind of Japanese cuisine is served. And oh, lucky, lucky us!

Toritetsu, Street 302 & 63

Unless you know exactly where to look, it’s unlikely you would stumble upon this gem. In a nondescript house on a quiet stretch of Street 302, you will have sped past Toritetsu a dozen times. Stop. Do go in.

The tiny grill by the front door is the only clue they serve yakitori – grilled skewered meat and veg – mostly from chicken parts. Skin, thighs, heart, gizzard, liver: grilled, glazed with Japanese flavours, skewered with veg. You’ll feel like you woke up in a Tokyo back street.

There are less than ten tables which fill fast and the speed of service is not for the famished, but if you’re up for long and leisurely and can manage a table on a weekend, consider yourself fortunate. Every stick is well priced at a dollar apiece. Try it all and ask for the special dipping sauce on the side.

Kazu, #2A Street 302

There are already a few Japanese/Korean BBQ places in hopping PP – think the ever-popular Uratei and less known Jin – but Kazu is definitely the most current. Just two months old and the offspring of a Tokyo restaurateur with its sparkling walls, modern interiors and state of the art copper grills, Kazu is already more inviting and infinitely more exciting.

Cosy black (p)leather booths fill Kazu’s white space, but what’s really interesting are its distinct grills, so different from the ones we are used to (those built into the tables). At Kazu, exhaust tubes hang from the ceiling, aimed perfectly towards a copper grill in every table. This is a winner: meats are charred perfectly, while the smoke and smell are kept at bay.

When we dined the only other guests were Japanese, who clearly knew their meat. Everything we tried was delectable. Short ribs were soft and tender, hanging perfectly marinated and so soft that a knife to slice the meat was superfluous.

Generous plates of US meat start at $7 while Japanese meat starts at $25. Lunch specials are a steal with most sets between $6 and $10.

Maru Shabu, #231 Street 352 & 63

Every new Japanese haunt is initially quite mysterious, but Maru Shabu proved to be the most curious of all. Good shabu shabu – a Japanese style of cooking where top quality beef, seafood and vegetables are boiled in flavoured broth – is not easy to find and we were excited by the promise.

Yes. Maru Shabu makes good on its promise to deliver top quality shabu shabu and much more. This was the surprise: Maru Shabu, the PP branch of a quickly expanding Korean chain, is actually a buffet that includes not only shabu shabu, but also many other thises and thats.

White, bright and with lovely decorative lamps, Maru Shabu is bound to become a lively lunch hangout. Weekday lunches have the best deal: for $12, you get a generous portion of sliced beef ($15 for seafood) to boil in your own pot on the table, plus unlimited access to an interesting buffet spread that includes seafood balls and noodles for shabu shabu, plus sushi, pizza and pasta, Japanese kebabs and dessert.

Despite it being a buffet, the meat and seafood plates for shabu shabu are limited to one serving, which ensures consistently good quality. Beef is fresh and soft, and a bowl of steaming broth is warm and comforting. We finished one generous serving quite satisfied, not needing any more… but ice cream from Blue Pumpkin, included in the buffet, was the icing on the cake.

It’s about time for a city as dynamic and voracious as ours: we have woken up to the discovery of a whole new meal that though neither breakfast nor lunch is hands down more interesting than either and infinitely more satisfying than both. Brunch – we’re talking eggs fashioned into benedicts; perfectly ripened fruit in rich, velvety yogurts; fluffy buttery pancakes swimming in richly flavoured syrups with dollops of cream – is love for the insides, a song for the soul and arguably the most gratifying way to begin any weekend.

The Duck, Sothearos Blvd; 089 823704

It is difficult to imagine The Duck could offer more than just a slight change of pace, judging from its location on busy Sothearos Boulevard, but stepping in on a quiet Sunday morning is enchanting. The melody of Someone To Watch Over Me sweetly brings the air to life, a subtle light softly peeping in and casting a glow on the warm ochre interiors, gently waking you from a deep weekend slumber.

It gets better. The usual freshly squeezed juices are on offer at The Duck, but the Lychee Lime is a concoction so green, tart and fresh that it feels like you’re sipping it straight out of a garden. The cappuccinos are equally lovely, served in large, friendly bowls and perfectly brewed.

My favourite brunch ($5 per main course) dish is eggs benedict and The Duck’s version makes every other benedict seem dowdy and uncivilised. Moist, plump eggs are dressed with a light but tasty hollandaise, poised atop a handful of garden green spinach, bacon and muffin. Every ingredient is so ripe and fresh you’d swear there’s a farm where there should be a kitchen. The fresh corncakes are also a winner, a kind of pancake with subtle hints of southwestern spices, dotted with kernels that pop like pleasant surprises in the mouth. The pancakes are among the best in Phnom Penh, all light and fluffy; the syrup rich and buttery, wonderful with bananas and cream.

Public House, Street 240½; 017 770754

Twenty metres deep within a skinny alleyway off Street 240, Public House is the epitome of a true Phnom Penh find: a gem on a street one is initially doubtful exists. The surprise begins at the door, where relaxing hues of pines and mints enclose the loveliest – if cosiest – of spaces with about six tables plus stools at the bar, like the discovery of a secret watering hole at the end of a long journey. And it’s delightful to the end, with brunch fare so fine it might rival your favourite London gastro pub – and then trump that, as it did mine.

Weekend brunch at Public House is done in an interesting way. For $15 ($25 includes fruity alcoholic chillers), you can order any and all things from the brunch menu and the chefs will whip up a taster-sized portion, as you like it, when you like it. Ingenious.

The secret to Public House’s scrumptious fare is its perfect simplicity: perfectly fresh ingredients, perfectly seasoned, perfectly cooked.

Fruit salad — a colourful mix of ripe mango, banana, melon and apple, topped with creamy natural yogurt – smiles up at you from the bowl. Corn fritters, firm yet light pancakes, instantly transport you to the Southwest. Spices are distinctively flavoured, but don’t overpower the dish. What really makes you want to go back is the simplest offering of all: avocado toast with bacon, a stellar combination of three simple ingredients that, when together, sing the most enchanting chorus in your mouth.

Pangea Fusion Restaurant, NagaWorld; 023 228822

High rollers would do well to consider the Sunday Funday Brunch at NagaWorld’s Pangea Fusion restaurant. A cavernous dining hall, decked out in balloons and streamers, houses not only a miniature clown house complete with clowns, but also one of the biggest weekend buffets in the capital.

Themed service stations dot the vast ballroom, from pasta to Mexican to cold cuts, from fresh crepes and fruit to a truly devastating array of desserts (don’t miss your chance to dip into the pink chocolate fountain). Brunch alone will set you back $55, so it makes sense to plump for the $68 option which includes free-flow Moet & Chandon, cocktails, mocktails, house wine and soft drinks. And don’t forget to order a cab home in advance: driving or riding after such indulgence simply isn’t an option!