Byline: Jody Hanson

“Mouth-watering pickles,” comments my dining companion and photographer, just as the waiter sets down a second basket of poppadoms for us to nibble. My ritual at this place is to sit down, close my eyes and smell the Indian continent.

Being a creature of food habit, I order the thali vegetarian ($5). It has so many things I like: naan, daal, vegetables, rice, pickles, salad and raita. Brad opts for the fish tika masala ($6) and we get ready to share. Setting aside the cutlery, we dig in with our fingers. “Somehow Indian food just doesn’t taste as good if you eat with it a knife and fork rather than scooping it up with a piece of naan,” I comment. Brad nods in agreement and reaches for more bread.

The extensive menu includes shuraat (‘quick bites’) ranging from masala papa ($1) to shami kabab ($6). The shora (‘soup’) section includes a hale-and-hearty lentil soup ($1.50). Lovers of seafood – samundar in Hindi – can get fish curry ($5) or prawn masala ($7). And it doesn’t come much healthier than the raita of cucumber, potatoes and onion in yogurt ($1.50).

Vegetarians get two pages of the menu, including paneer tika pudina (cottage cheese marinated with mint and spice) at $6 and tandoori aloo dilnaz at $5. Carnivores can tuck into the aloo mutton curry with potatoes and green peas ($6). Cooked with onions, ginger and spice, it’s steeped in taste. Another meaty choice is the chicken dhaniya ($6), which is boneless and served with fresh coriander and herbs (this is an Indian establishment, so don’t go looking for beef).

A slight menu anomaly here is the Indo-Chinese fusion. Try the chicken spring roll ($4.50) to check it out. Lalsingh, the restaurateur who was born in Nepal and educated in India, offers a few recommendations. The first, chicken tika masala ($6); the second, mutton vindaloo ($7); the third, chicken biriani ($5.50).

House wine is $3 a glass. Argentinean shiraz-malbec is $12. The white on offer includes a Chilean sauvignon at $16 and a Canapi Italian (red or white) comes in at $17. The usual soft drinks, beer and liquor are also available on tap.

Dining on a Sunday afternoon, we’re the only non-Indians in the place. Lalsingh says about 30% of his customers are Indian and the rest are a mixture of Westerners, Korean and Japanese. Cambodians have yet to experiment with Indian cuisine, it seems, although a few are starting to filter in.

Open from 10am to 10pm, seven days a week, Flavours of India is a great retreat from the Khmer and Western food on offer almost everywhere else.

Flavours of India, #158 Street 63; 012 835907.

 

I felt a touch like Jack Sprat and his wife as I surveyed the seven or so empty platters and belched ever so softly into my krama. “Frankly, I can’t believe how much we ate.” “That’s because it’s so good it’s hard to stop,” offered Brad, the photographer. “It was a fantastic feast.” He has spent a lot of time in Jakarta and speaks Bahasa, so his endorsement carries a lot of cred. “Very different from Cambodian food,” Nick – tuk-tuk driver/friend/little brother – chimed in, “and very delicious.” It was his first ever Indonesian meal. It was also his first encounter with passion-fruit juice ($1.50) and he gave it rave reviews. On the topic of drinks, coffee and sodas are $1 and beer ranges from $1.50 to $2.

Tucked away on Street 456, not too far from Russian Market, Sumatra is a gem. The original restaurant opened in June 2009 with two tables and eight chairs. Two years ago Markus, Elly (a husband-and-wife duo) and Sani – Elly’s sister – moved into the current premises. The restaurant now sports 10 tables and 40 chairs. Open from 11am to 8pm Monday to Saturday, its crowd is a mixture of NGO types, expats and locals. High on Trip Advisor, it attracts regulars who have come to know the gregarious owners.

Airy and green, the courtyard is refreshing and the chairs are comfortable. “Nice place,” pronounced Nick, “cool and quiet.” Choices abound: fish, chicken, duck, beef, squid, soup, tofu and vegetables. The flavour influences are Balinese, Sumatran and Javanese. Many of the dishes are balado, a Sumatran sauce of tomato, chili and garlic. Pictures help the uninitiated tell the difference between gado-gado – boiled vegetable salad with peanut sauce for $2 – and cap cay, stir-fried vegetables at $2.50. Or how about tahu isi (four pieces of tofu stuffed with vegetables)?

If you want to start small, check the snack section. Six pieces of tofu mendoan cost $2; four pieces of bakwam – battered and deep-fried mixed vegetables – are $1.50. A bowl of tofu soup – stewed cassava leaves in Indonesian spices with coconut milk – is just $1.75 and virtually a meal in itself.

Recommendations? The beef rendang ($3) is mouth melting and the Indonesian spices, chili and coconut milk have a bit of a tang. The fish pes moll ($2.50/$4) is made from Markus’ own recipe. Eggplant balado ($1.75) is a delish side dish, as is tempe mendoan (six pieces for $2) with a dipping sauce of chili and sweet soy. Those wanting a set meal can tuck into the Balinese chicken with stir-fried veggies and rice. Another poultry offering is sattay with rice, vegetables and a chili dip ($4).

The best approach is to pack a tuk tuk with your friends so you can order widely and share. I asked for a whack of business cards and have since been recommending it to everyone. As we left, Brad summed it up: “Enak sekali!” (‘Thanks!’)

Sumatra, #35 Street 456 (between streets 123 and 135); 016 561980.

 

Even though we were heading away from the city, the early morning traffic snaked along by 07:50. Mini-whirlwinds of dust cut through the krama covering my face. “I don’t think we will get there before the rice runs out,” commented Nick, our English-speaking tuk tuk driver and translator. He was right. By the time we rounded the corner and arrived at Vichika’s breakfast stand just before 08:00, all that was left were some scrambled eggs.

Vichika lives at the Stung Meanchey garbage dump. As a scavenger she eked out a living, making about $2.50 on a good day going through the rubbish looking for plastic, tin and glass to sell to recycle operations. Then Down in the Dumps – a non-NGO with no administration overhead – fronted up with $200 and her life changed. She had the capital to go into business. “She is doing very well,” translated Nick, with a hint of admiration in his voice “and some weeks she can make $70.” For the people at the dump who aspire to $100 a month, it is a fortune.

Vichika’s routine is that she gets up at 01:00 or 01:30 and starts cooking: rice, pork, eggs. Then at 05:00 she hauls the food, plates and cutlery about half a kilometre down the road. Her solid wooden stand is propped up against the fence of a school yard. She lowers it, adjusts the tarp for shade and opens shop at 06:00. She dishes out food until the rice runs out; then she is done for the day.

Most of her customers are workers from the nearby factories. Her husband works in a juice place so his buddies eat there. Others are truck or tuk tuk drivers who don’t have anywhere to cook. They are basic working men who quickly wolf down the meal and swig on cups of tea.

The food at Vichika’s is basic and it is what most Khmer people eat most of the time. Which explains why these breakfast places are found absolutely everywhere.

Breakfast at the dump is about as far off the tourist track as you can get. Getting there before the rice runs out takes some planning. Give Nick a call on 012 361355 and arrange for a 05:30 or 06:00 pick-up to avoid the dust-infused traffic. He has made the run many times with Down in the Dumps and knows the people there.

Pull up a plastic chair and tuck into a bowl of rice and pork for 3,000 riel (about 75 cents) or 4,000 riel ($1) with a side of scrambled eggs. Don’t expect the hygiene standards to measure up to those of the hermeneutically sealed West. We are in the Kingdom, after all.

After the rice is gone, get Vichika or her sister Len – who both speak some English – to take you on the stroll around the dump. The dessert of having breakfast at Vichika’s is that you will realise you have no right to complain about money ever again.

Vichika’s, Stung Meanchey garbage dump; call Nick on 012 361355 for a pick-up.

 

The elbow-to-elbow Western and Khmer eateries along Street 172 can get very boring very quickly, so when an alternative springs up that’s cause for celebration. Turkish Delight offers authentic ethnic cuisine, such as lamb kebabs with lettuce, tomato and onion ($7). The vegetarian dipping plate – an option big enough for two – includes spinach and feta salad with hummus, jajik and eggplant for $9. For those so inclined, baklava is $2 and refreshing apple tea – highly recommended – is $1.

The place is clean and you can see your food being sliced off the revolving spits and put together from the serving trays. While you’re waiting for your meal, wander to the bathroom at the back. There, posters of the pazar (Turkish lingo for ‘market’) are so Istanbul that you can almost see Hagia Sophia in the background. The Muslims have it right: never, ever, ever – got that? – touch food without washing your hands first. Insha’Allah.

Back to the food. Why is it so right? No shawarma found here. Instead, kebabs made with Australian beef. The pita is fresh; the vegetables come from the market that morning and you can mix and mingle what you want in your meal. The music, the decoration and the ambience ooze Middle East. About the only thing missing are belly dancers and a couple of camels.

Antonio – aka Gokhan – is a Turk with a Spanish nickname. He took the circuitous route to Cambodia, first working with his uncle in Turkey for nine years. Next he ran restaurants in Australia, Germany, Switzerland and East Timor. Dili may not be on most people’s bucket list for fine dining, but UN types with money were there and his restaurant was a popular destination. Antonio’s idea is to work, travel and study as he builds up his herbalist knowledge and cooking skills.

On his second day in the Kingdom he met Harry, who runs Sundance Inn and Saloon. Over a handshake, Antonio rented the space and set up the restaurant, now tucked in beside a backpacker-type bar. If you want kebabs served so you won’t miss your shot at the pool table, that’s fine. If you want to swan in with one of Harry’s generous free-pour drinks, no problem. Both boys recognise they work better together.

Healthy options on Street 172 aren’t easy to find. Turkish Delight may be a touch more expensive than more ho-hum options in the neighbourhood, but it’s worth it if you need a break from stodge.

Turkish Delight, #61 Street 172 (next to Sundance Inn & Saloon)

 

Before you head up the stairs to the Sugar & Spice Cafe at Daughters of Cambodia, make sure you’re hungry. A ravenous appetite will do nicely.

Sugar & Spice cafe is decked out in green and brown. Check the specials of the day on the board and then sink – literally – into the foam sofa and stools. The menu is totally Western without any hints of Khmer influence. Fancy a hamburger at $6.50? Eggs Benedict come in at $5. If you’re one of those North Americans who think pumpkins are for jack-o-lanterns at Halloween, try the soup for $3. The grilled pepper salad is a healthy choice at $5.50. For a caffeine hit, the short single espresso is $1 and packs a punch. Regular tea costs the same. Smoothies range from $2.50 to $3.25 depending on the flavour of choice. No beer or wine served here.

How anyone makes it to dessert after a meal escapes me, but if you want a cuppa and a sweet in the mid-afternoon there’s no shortage of choice: ooey gooey cakes and puddings and cookies that are bound to appeal to anyone looking for a sugar fix.

The portions are huge, the presentation is creative and the ingredients are fresh. We ordered the fish burger and chicken Caesar wrap to share. Both meals came with enough wedges to have saved Ireland from the potato famine back in 1845. I got through my half of the burger and the wrap, but went down in defeat to the wedges. The sauces – not sure exactly what they were for, so I tried them with everything – made dipping a taste-varying experience. One was like chutney, another like mayo, the third like Dijon mustard.

Besides the great food and relaxed atmosphere, another attraction is that Sugar & Spice is run by former sex workers. According to Breanne Orndorff, the outlet director, they range in age from 16 to their early 30s.The process begins with an interview to establish they were involved in the sex industry. Most worked in karaoke clubs and hostess bars in the red light districts of town.

The programme runs out of the Operations Centre in Stung Meanchey, and includes counselling facilities, a medical clinic and a day care. Girls decide if they would like to be trained in the sewing room, spa, cafe or kitchen. The boys do the silk screening for shirts, bags and ornaments that come out under the Sons of Cambodia label. Recyclable materials are used whenever possible. Don’t forget to stop in at the shop once you’ve sated your appetite for food. There you can fill up on hand-made items from pot holders to earrings and bracelets, safe in the knowledge their creators earned a fair-trade wage.

Sugar & Spice Cafe @ Daughters of Cambodia, #65 Street 178.

 

Of course ordering a frozen margarita at 12:03 on a Friday is perfectly acceptable when eating at a Mexican cocina (‘kitchen’). The menu read $4.50 and the small print said you got to keep the glass. Done deal. Those who aren’t into alcohol at that hour can opt for the squeaky clean horchato – a cinnamon rice milk concoction that is a family recipe from Jalisco in Mexico ($2.25). The restaurant is open from 11:00 to 23:00 and delivers, so you can order that taco for an early breakfast.

It took about half the margarita to wade through the massive menu. Starters, salads, fajitas, quesadillas, enchiladas, tacos, burrito, soups. Decisions, decisions. For those who want to eat north of the border there is the American dog ($4.50) or the Southwest burger ($6.50).

Overwhelmed by choice, I eventually settled on the ‘build your own burrito’ ($7.75) and the waitress appeared with a form and a pencil to tick boxes. All the extras – black beans, refried beans, lettuce, green peppers onions, potatoes and corn, cilantro and jalapenos – were ticked. Spice level? Ultra hot, of course; is there any other? John’s super-hot from the condiments stand almost meets my standard of inferno.

A basket of chips made from fresh corn – the base of Mexican cuisine – appeared. Nice for dipping and munching while waiting for the main event. The burrito arrived and it truly was massive, a hold-it-with-both-hands challenge. The lettuce on the side salad was a touch wilted, but the tomatoes were fresh.

Since Sunrise Taco is in BKK1 I expected the clientele to be expats and Western types. Wrong. It’s knife-and-fork-wielding Khmers rather than eating-with-the-hands purists. According to Ratana, who speaks impeccable English: “Mexican food seemed a bit strange at first, but it tastes good and now the local people like it.” Her recommendations? The classic chicken quesadilla ($6.75), the USA cowboy ($8.25) and the baja-style fish tacos (three for $8.50 or one for $3). According to the menu, the signature dish is home-made chips with Stephanie’s personal spin on guacamole ($4.75).

The decor is a mixture of peasant Mexican, Western touches and a Buddhist shrine. Done in pinkish-purple and yellow, it’s a touch disconcerting. I can’t figure out why. It just is. Ambience aside, Sunrise Tacos is into promos. Kids under seven eat free on Mondays. Chomp through all-you-can-eat specials ($8.75) from 14:00 to 19:00 on Tuesdays and Fridays. Birthdays, complete with ID for proof, are worth a free main and a dessert. The sweets come in at $2.75 for a slice of pie or $18.75 for the whole thing.

Meal over and bill paid, I sauntered out the door. Just as I was about to put the bright green plastic glass into the basket on my bike I was apprehended by the waitress. Apparently it’s only if you order the super-duper size that you get to keep the glass. *Huff*

Sunrise Tacos, #171 Street 63 (corner of Street 278); 077 854545.

 

Named after Chiara’s grandfather, whose motto “Simple and delicious: that’s the secret” serves as the mission statement, is Da Sandro Panini Bar. And although he died six months ago, his legacy lives on.

Everything about this upmarket eatery is so Italian it could be somewhere in Tuscany. The food, the furniture, the ambience. Even the walls ooze a sense of passion. Check out the specials board and the menu.

The paninis are named after Chiara’s friends and family. “We try to make it personal and to infuse a sense of belonging. Whenever someone orders an Alby, I think of him,” she explains. For example, a Raffo – named after a deceased artist friend – is spicy salami, pecorino, rocket, Sandro’s red bell pepper sauce and served on panini bread for $7.50. Sissy ($7) is made from a salmon base. Pork sausage enthusiasts can opt for Mau on a ciabatta ($6). A variety of toasts – think sandwiches – are $3 to $4.50. Costy ($3) is vegetarian and Vale ($4.50) is cooked ham.

A glass of very drinkable white or red wine is $3 a glass or $13.50 a litre. Those who want to splash out can opt for the $30 to $48 bottles of notable Italian wine. The dark chocolate, like all the food on the menu, is made on the premises. “This is truly decadent,” comments my dining companion as he slips another spoonful into his mouth.

Chiara is a restaurant owner who is fully involved in her business. She runs a tight operation and gets to know her customers as people: a refreshing change from the absentee-expat restaurateurs. The majority of customers are foreign business types, but Cambodians are starting to find Da Sandro’s as well. The most important factor is repeat business: “Some people come here five or six days in a row and then we don’t see them for another week,” offers Chiara. “The lunchtimes are generally quite busy. Sometimes we run out of tables.”

Panini and cold cuts are for sale in the small deli part of the operation. Sauces for sale will be arriving soon. Future plans include moving into catering, further developing the deli offerings and training up more staff. But Chiara doesn’t want to rush the process: “We want a controlled growth. You have to have the product before you can expand and doing it too quickly doesn’t work because it deviates from our philosophy of simple and delicious.”

Da Sandro’s is a tad more expensive than some of the other sandwich places around town, but when you factor in the quality of the ingredients, the immaculate premises and the delightful personalities, it all adds up to good value for money.

 

Da Sandro Panini Bar, #162 Street 63

 

If you are looking for a fast bite to eat, go somewhere else. The Opera Cafe is a place to imbibe the atmosphere – along with the wine – and enjoy the dining experience. Calm down, relax and let them take care of you. An enlarged Piano Shop card – complete with a keyboard, of course – strategically placed behind the fish tank is a strong indication that this space attracts artistic types. Once a month, local and international photographers descend on the venue for a brainstorming session. Daniel, the manager, is writing a book. The 15 videos that run include Cirque du Soleil. All very European, dahhhhhling. Terribly Italian, to be exact.

But what about the food? To give it a fast sum-up, the pasta is phenomenal and the service is impeccable. The made-on-the-premises gnocchi and ravioli are comfort food on a rainy night. Also perfect for a carb-loading before a Hash House Harriers marathon is the Bucatini all Amatriciana. Complete with tubular spaghetti, smoked bacon, onion, tomato sauce and pecorino cheese ($6.50), it provides the necessary energy to walk, jog or run across the finish line.

Check out the Picasso platter ($6) with two eggplant cakes, two potato croquettes and rice with supplli. And then there is the Carmen salad with lettuce, cherry tomatoes, blue cheese, bacon and croutons ($5).  Another healthy choice is the No Kill Burger. This vegetarian option is made with eggplant rather than beef ($5). Those longing for a taste of jolly old England can opt for the Baritono fish & chips ($6.50), but will need to bring their own copy of The Advisor to wrap it in. Khmer food fans can tuck into the Angkor fried noodles with beef or chicken ($4.50).  My recommendation, however, is to stick to the spectacular pasta.

As for drinks, a glass of Grappa Nonino ($5) is practically mandatory for a truly Italian experience. Those wanting something refreshing should try the Aperol Spritz ($6) to titillate the taste buds. There are, of course, the usual offerings of soft drinks, coffee, spirits and beer. The house red is Sangiovese and the white is Trebbiano ($3.50 a glass), both very Italian, but would we expect anything less?

Cocktail aficionados can check out the Opera, a combination of Triple Sec, orange and lime juice ($4), or the My Darling – hot milk, Nutella and Baileys ($5) – concocted by Daniel the book-writing manager for those with a sweet tooth. While we were at Opera Cafe, the sky opened up and a monsoon poured down. There was only one logical course of action: order another glass of wine and continue on.
Opera Café, corner of Streets 13 and 178 (opposite National Museum)

 

Grab a red marker and compose your own Mexican meal. Uno, dos, tres – or one, two, three, for unilingual types.
Uno: circle your main ingredient and the choices are beef barbacoa, shredded chicken, carnitas (pulled pork) or veggie. Once that decision is made, move on to dos and pick your delivery vehicle. The options include burrito, bowl, quesadilla or three tacos. The final instructions are the extras: black beans, lettuce, cheese, grilled veggies, sour cream and guacamole.

The final, final decision is the level of hotness that ranges from salsa fresca (mild) to roasted corn (hot). No choice there because I believe chili peppers should form the sixth food group, but just to be sure I scrawl ‘very spicy’ on the order form.

We order tacos and burritos to share. The tacos arrive almost before you can say: ‘Remember the Alamo.’ My dining companion and photographer notes they are subtle and tasty, but not spicy. When I order extra hot but get ultra mild, I pout. The thing with spice is that it has to be cooked in rather than dumped on, but what can be expected of a woman who cuts seven or eight red chilies into two scrambled eggs? The rice and beans – which don’t fall into the spice category – are simple and moist as they should be.

Matt Harp, the owner, happens along and we engage in a discussion about the evolution of Cocina Cartel. He is upfront about the operation: “I don’t have a mission statement. I just want to run a good Mexican place.” Fair enough, because the restaurant has only been open for about two-and-a-half months. “Rather than trying to do 25 things badly, we concentrate on doing three or four options very well.” Agreed: that is the sign of a good restaurant.

The ambience at Cocina Cartel doesn’t leave you feeling as though you’ve just landed in Tijuana. With the high ceiling, fans and straightforward decor, it’s clean, simple and doesn’t try to scream ‘Mexican!’ No senoritas with roses between their teeth dancing flamenco here. Not a cactus in sight.

What about the drinks? The standard alcohol and mixers are on the menu, along with beer, cider, soda and fruit juice. I go for a ‘Kidnapped In Jaurez: a combination of beer, tomato juice and tequila with a spicy kick.’

Our discussion reverts back to who considers what to be spicy. “I agree that we need to up the spice level so we may create an ‘inferno’ for the die-hards.” As Matt watches me shake the better part of a bottle of Tabasco into my drink, he adds: “But for renegades like you, we may have to include an additional charge.” True enough, the Tabasco likely cost more than the tequila.
Why come To Cocina Cartel? It’s an innovative, engaging place that’s evolving and listens to what customers have to suggest. Fun!

Cocina Cartel, #198b Street 19; 089 227182.

Ranked #1 out of 537 restaurants in the capital, Friends is a must-eat-at sort of place for three very good reasons: the food, the service and the project. Walk in and admire the ambient greenery, the art-decorated walls and the jazzy atmosphere. Continue with the reassurance that ‘Our ice water is pure, our raw veggies are safe to eat and all our food is MSG free.’ Check out the menu.

The tapas rate highly. Chip lovers can tuck into the crispy zucchini and cheddar fritters ($4). How about the crispy shrimp wontons with sweet chili and lime dip ($5.25) or the stir fried chicken with mango and cashew nuts ($4)? Two fairly hungry people can expect to pack away three dishes.

For fresh-food types there’s lentil-and-roast-vegetable salad with goat’s cheese, tossed with Dijon vinaigrette ($4). Try the breaded fish burger with tartar sauce ($6.75). For the heartily hungry there is the 200g prime buffalo steak with all the trimmings ($15). If it’s too early for a frozen daiquiri, order a custard apple and coconut smoothie ($3).

The t-shirt clad wait staff are never far away. Face on it’s difficult to tell who’s who, but when they turn around the categories are ‘student’ or ‘teacher’. Fifteen-year-olds who want to work in the restaurant industry start off at the canteen out back, where the kids-in-residence are fed. There they learn basic kitchen skills and the importance of hygiene. The next rung up the ladder is to progress to Romdeng’s, a sister operation that serves Khmer food. Graduates move on to the international level at Friends. And by the time they get there, they have the necessary F&B industry skills in place. Foreigners who whine about the lack of service in Cambodia need to eat at Friends.

The young people working at Friends are part of Mith Samlanh, an organisation that works with former street children and marginalised youth. Offering food, clothing, shelter, education and medical treatment to more than 1,500 homeless children is no easy task. The kids in the programme range from newborn babies to 24-year-olds. In the early days, informal education is central. When they start school, students are outfitted with uniforms, bags and books. At 15 they have the option to pursue vocational training in cooking, welding, hairdressing, mechanics or electricity.

After your meal, stroll over to Friends ‘N’ Stuff next door. Shop for gifts made from recycled materials by the students’ families. Purchases help support the people who most need it, so buy generously and consider getting a manicure from the young trainees. Everywhere, there are smiles – which might explain why Mith Samlanh was voted one of the top 100 NGOs in 2013. To do your bit, eat there often and take plenty of your own friends along with you.

Friends, #215 Street 13 (near the National Museum).