Byline: Marissa Carruthers

Brooklyn Heights

Having never been to Brooklyn, I have no clue what the food is like. However, I know a good burger or pizza when I come across one. And with Brooklyn Pizza and Bistro being the talk of town since opening its doors a few weeks ago, I had to give it a go.

Setting up shop in the rapidly rising Russian Market area, the bistro is nestled on Street 123 almost directly opposite the Frangipani Hotel (a useful landmark). And catering to a craving for authentic American comfort food seems to be something the area is lacking because the joint was full when we arrived, something I’m told is often the case.

Inside the decor is simple with cream walls and tiles with Moroccan-inspired detail adding to the light and airy feel. Plenty of tables and chairs fill the spacious room, and a serving area and glass counter displaying a mouth-watering range of home-baked cheesecakes and desserts sits in one corner. Plain walls divert attention to the funky circular lampshades.

Brooklyn Pizza and Bistro serves up a healthy range of American-inspired dishes. The pizzas are made to share, coming in 12” and 16”, and range from The Godfather ($9.90/ $14.90), a mighty feast of Italian sausage, sliced meatballs, mozzarella, parmesan olives, peppers and chili flakes, to the Westside Calzone ($8.50), mozzarella, parmesan, ricotta, pepperoni and bacon. Other dishes include pasta, salad, ribs, chicken wings, sandwiches and burgers, such as the Aussie Royale ($7.50), topped with bacon, egg, cheese, pineapple and beetroot.

Although the crisp-based pizzas slathered with toppings looked to die for, it was the BBQ pulled pork sandwich ($5.50) that took my fancy. Trading in the temptation of a bulky burger for a healthier option, my American friend plumped for the smoked salmon wrap ($5.50). In an almost miraculous amount of time, a plate with two large wraps stuffed with tender smoked salmon, crisp leaves of lettuce, and chopped tomatoes and cucumbers arrived. Accompanying it was a light and creamy dill sauce that complemented the generously filled wraps perfectly. Both sandwiches came with a side option of salad, French fries, coleslaw or bacon potato salad. My fellow diner opted for the potato salad and noted that the potatoes were a tad too hard. Apart from that the combination of potato, bacon, black olives and herbs in a creamy sauce worked well with her wraps.

The pulled pork sandwich was definitely a good choice and the melt-in-the-mouth pork topped with home-made coleslaw and owner Jay’s sweet baby jay’s barbecue sauce came served on a soft, sesame brioche bun. The right amount of sauce also meant I could take my time eating without worrying about the bun getting stupidly soggy. The French fries were a nice surprise and came in the form of thinly sliced wedges cooked perfectly to the crunch, complete with a dash of herbs.

Happily full, we were tempted by the giant-sized cheesecakes ($2.95) calling from the cabinet. But sense took over and we vowed instead to return with plenty of space for cake.

Brooklyn Pizza and Bistro, #20 St. 123 (open Tuesday to Sunday, 11am – 10.30pm); 089 925926.

 

Meet the guru

“It’s kind of like an orgasm: it all seems good and you have a drive to it, then once it’s done there’s a small amount of pleasure, then nothing.” After a decade-long journey full of surprise twists and turns to create a graphic novel chronicling the life of guru UG Krishnamurti (UGK), little wonder that artist Nicolas Grey is craving his next challenge.

But the lengthy adventure has been worth it for Grey and long-term pal James Farley, who wrote the text. Now they’re gearing up to exhibit a series of detailed drawings from This Dog Barking – The Strange Story of UGK, alongside the first public showing of the completed work.

“UGK is a person who is very hard to categorise, but touches on many themes,” says Grey, a self-taught artist from the UK. “Indian philosophy, troubled families, failure, the nature of thought and why we think what we think as well as touching on some interesting historical people. When I first read the UG books, one of my first thoughts was that it would make a great comic book. The story is bizarre yet profound, but also very grounded in things I knew, such as homelessness and disillusionment.”

Intending to create a book containing a few drawings and anecdotes on UKG, an Indian guru who questioned enlightenment, Grey and Farley, who are friends from East London, put pen to paper. But as they dug deeper into the life of this little-known cult figure, they discovered a wealth of information that led them to the Himalayas. There, they met many of UKG’s friends and relatives.

“One of many highlights for me was when Nic and I spent two weeks in Sikkim in the Himalayas,” says Farley, who quit his job as a social worker in the UK four years ago to move to Cambodia. “We just travelled between towns, drinking tea, wandering around, chatting, eating our dinner. It was such a pleasant time that I have almost no memories of it. Can’t remember where we went or what we did. It was great.”

The result of this eminently forgettable voyage is 150 pages of drawings and storytelling that weave together the complexities of UGK, his family, antagonists and followers. Says Grey: “When James came to Cambodia, he told me the book was as good as written, but as it turned out the more research we did, the less clear everything became. We went on to meet and get to know many of UGK’s old friends and this was my highlight – meeting a whole bunch of really wonderful people who I feel a very strong connection to.”

This Dog Barking – The Strange Story of UG Krishnaumrti chronicles the bizarre history of The Cosmic Naxalite; from his troubled childhood with the Theosophists and subsequent disillusion with many of the leading spiritual teachers of the 20th century to his catastrophic personal life and years of homelessness and destitution in London and Paris.

The exhibition opening at Java Arts on Tuesday will feature framed original drawings by Grey, an installation of the publication, limited edition items and collected materials on UKG. Next Thursday at 7pm, Farley will read passages from the novel followed by a discussion with Grey.

WHO: Nicolas Grey and James Farley
WHAT: This Dog Barking – The Strange Story of UG Krishnaumrti graphic novel launch
WHERE: Java Cafe and Gallery, 56 Sihanouk Blvd.
WHEN: From 6pm July 9 (opening) until September 1
WHY: Gripping tales of the life of an Indian guru

A string and a prayer

University students have called on their creativity to explore aspects of Cambodian culture in their debut exhibition. Drawing on strong and vibrant spiritual traditions common in the Kingdom, four graphic design students from Limkokwing University of Creative Technology are gearing up to showcase their work in a final year exhibition as they prepare to graduate.

“This is the first graduating class from the university and it’s the first time they’ve had an exhibition, so it’s very exciting,” says course tutor Jois Lundgren. “They are very talented and have already learnt all of the technical aspects of design and advertising so this is adding another element to their portfolio.”

The exhibition, White Is My Soul But I Prefer Black, opens on June 21. A stunning conceptual centrepiece created by the group examines the spiritual traditions of protection used by many in the form of the red or white thread often worn around people’s wrists, tied to vehicles and at the entrance to homes. It is believed that once blessed by a monk, the thread protects people and places from harm.

Another form of physical protection in Cambodia is shade. Says Lundgren: “As a tropical country, the sun in Cambodia can be unbearably hot. Everybody walks, stands and lingers in the shade, which protects their skin. Long sleeves, hats and even gloves are commonly used. Unlike in the West, where a suntan is many people‘s ideal, in Cambodia having white skin is by far more desirable and considered more attractive.”

The result of the creative collision between Kavich Neang, Milcah Madlang-Awa, Veasna Heng and Cedrick Ragel is a contemporary exploration of the relationship between different forms of protection, both physical and spiritual. “This installation simulates reality in daily Cambodian life with the use of thread and shade and shadow, questioning its impact and involving the viewer,” says Lundgren. “It questions the significance and the meaning of spiritual and physical protection.”

Kavich, 25, enjoyed tackling issues of importance to many Cambodians in their daily lives. “For me this exhibition is interesting because it raises awareness of spiritual and physical protection that is important to many people in Cambodia. We don’t like to walk in the sun or become tanned because it is a sign of being poor, whereas Westerners want to be brown. I find that very interesting because we’re different.”

Madlang-Awa, 18, has relished pushing the boundaries of her minimalist style and getting in touch with her creative side: “I’m excited, nervous and anxious at the same time but I’ve really enjoyed the whole course and working on this exhibition has been fun because it’s something different. I have enjoyed coming up with concepts and then using art to get the messages across. We are not trying to say whether they are right or wrong, just raising awareness.”

WHO: Kavich Neang, Milcah Madlang-Awa, Veasna Heng and Cedrick Ragel
WHAT: White Is My Soul But I Prefer Black graphic design exhibition
WHERE: AD Communication, #337a Street 118 (corner of St. 215)
WHEN: From 6pm – 9pm June 21
WHY: String is a many-splendored thing

& into the fire

You know you’re onto a winner when the road is clogged up by a maze of bikes belonging to the crowd of diners inside. That pretty much sums up the scenario outside Sovanna’s every night as both Khmers and expats pack into the bustling and restaurant to tuck into the mountain of dishes on offer on the extensive menu.

And if the obvious signs of its popularity – let’s not forget Sovanna II is just down the street – aren’t enough to lure you in, then the smell of the Khmer restaurant’s legendary grilled meats wafting from the sizzling barbecue at the entrance is sure to get you through the gates, salivating as you go.

Inside, it’s alive with the clatter of plates and chatter from large groups of diners huddled around the many tables. Outside is a tropical garden with giant trees separating tables, vines creeping up the walls and plants scattered about. Despite the constant stream of people, there always seems to be an abundance of friendly waiters poised to show you to a table that is swiftly cleaned before you’re seated and handed a menu. And what a menu it is.

It could easily take hours to decide what to eat. In fact, this beast is the dining equivalent of War And Peace, with a healthy smattering of the weird and wonderful thrown in for good measure. Some of the more unusual dishes I’m too scared to try are grilled heart beef (20,000 riel; $4:80), bull stomach (25,000 riel; $6), fried stomach with red tamarind (23,000 riel; $5:50) and roti frog (23,000 riel; $5:50).

Promising to be more adventurous next time, we skipped these and went straight for large helpings of the restaurant’s renowned grilled pork (large: 16,000 riel; $3:80) and roasted beef (large: 20,000 riel; $4:80), fried mixed vegetables with oyster sauce (large: 15,500 riel; $3:60) and the grilled whole fish (25,000 riel; $6). As soon as we’d placed our order, the Cambodia beer girls appeared at our table armed with as many bottles of ice cold beer as they could carry and a bucket of ice.

First out was a complementary tray of lettuce, cucumber, tomato and carrot covered in ice to keep it fresh. Next was the pork and, yes, it lived up to its reputation. Delicately thin slices were cooked to perfection, the barbecue giving them a delicious smoky flavour, and there wasn’t a scrap of fat to be found. The beef was also cut into thin slices and was surprisingly tender, but not quite melt-in-your-mouth, and the full fish was a fancy feast and came sizzling on a hot plate with lemon, garlic and vegetables adding to the flavour.

Even though there were three mouths to feed and the food was exceptionally good, we struggled to demolish the plates and ordered the bill. Including too many beers to count and far too much rice, the total came in at the bargain price of 98,500 riel – the equivalent of about $23:50. And it’s that kind of value that keeps me coming back to Sovanna time and time again.

Sovanna, #4 Street 21; 012 398 281

 

Corking french cooking

My two great loves in life are good red wine and cheese: essential ingredients that have sadly been lacking in my life since moving to Cambodia. That was until the other day when, after harbouring a four-day craving for my two great loves, I was introduced to Bouchon. Eager to appease my hunger, I recruited the help of a more-than-willing friend and headed to the super-stylish French restaurant and wine bar.

Tucked away on Street 246, Bouchon – French for ‘cork’ – radiates elegance and sophistication. Outside is a tiled terrace with outdoor seating while inside contemporary chic collides with sultry French boudoir. Heavy red velvet curtains hang above mirror-lined walls; the concrete floor compliments the raw brickwork of the dominating u-shaped bar, and the jazz music that plays gently in the background, along with the dim lighting, replicate the tone of an authentic underground Parisian wine bar.

Adding to the intimacy of the setting, there are only a few booths for diners and we were lucky to grab the last one. After being handed a menu by one of the smartly dressed waitresses, we waded through the extensive wine list. Boasting too many bottles of French-imported wine to mention, ranging from $19 to $380, we decided to tantalise our tastebuds with the specials that come by the glass. Safe in the knowledge that Bouchon knows their business when it comes to wine, we left the rest to fate and each chose a number from the 13 on the blackboard behind the bar. Fate is a wonderful thing and it served us both up with two very different but fruity and flavoursome merlots ($3.50 and $4.50).

With one craving well on its way to being satisfied, there was just the cheese hunger left to settle and that led us straight to the cheese platter ($9). Deciding to share a few of the finger food options, we skipped over the main menu, which has an exclusive selection of fine French food including coq au vin ($8), beef blanquette ($8), spaghetti foie gras ($11) and beef carpaccio ($5).

We also opted for the charcuterie platter ($6) and tomato toast ($3), and any fears of not ordering enough vanished when the plates were brought out. Diced tomatoes mixed with pepper, herbs and onions drizzled with olive oil and lightly toasted on a five slices of French baguette came first, followed by the cheese platter, a generous helping of five different hard and soft cheeses from France.

The charcuterie came with a healthy slab of soft pate, cured hams, thinly seared slices of tender beef covered in pepper and herbs and seasoned strips of bacon. And the best bit of all was the endless supply of freshly baked French baguettes that kept coming without having to be requested.

While the food and drinks at Bouchon aren’t the cheapest in Phnom Penh, the quality and ambience make up for the price and next time my cheese and wine craving returns, I’ll be returning to satisfy them.

Bouchon, #3 Street 246; 077 881103.

 

Dish: Out of the frying pan

My muscles ached and my stomach rumbled as I collapsed into the chair to admire the fruit, or fish, of my hard labour. Before me sat a plate of Cambodia’s prize dish, an aromatic golden amok, delicately decorated with coconut cream and shredded lime leaves and red chilli, served up in a banana leaf bowl. It looked and smelt great.

Being a ‘probably could cook but can’t be bothered’ type of person, cookery classes aren’t my thing. But in the short time I’ve been in Cambodia, I’ve been won over by the cuisine and was keen to find out more about what sets this country apart from the more well-known foods of neighbouring Thailand and Vietnam.

So I signed up to Frizz restaurant’s cookery class and started the day with a colourful trip to Kandal market to source

our ingredients amid the chaos of swaying, sweating slabs of meat and flapping fish heads taking their final gasps for air before landing at the rooftop terrace kitchen. Here, we spent the next five hours tirelessly shredding, squeezing, chopping, crushing, pounding, slicing and grinding as we worked up an appetite fit to scoff the food we served ourselves along the way.

First up was chaio yor, or fried spring rolls made with carrot, taro and peanuts – a dish that’s easy to make, right? Wrong. The key ingredient here is the taro root, which in its raw form is toxic, triggering a harsh itching in the throat.

After shredding it into strips, heaps of salt were added, the moisture massaged out and the taro pressed into small balls to be washed in clean water. To be sure, this was done not once, not twice, but three times.

Next was for me was the dish of the day – amok. Sold as Cambodia’s national dish, amok is a zesty, flavoursome steamed curried fish cooked in a banana leaf and involves enough gruelling grinding in the heavy mortar and pestle to make even Popeye break out in a sweat.

Finally finished, I tucked in, reluctant to ruin my creation, and, boy, was it worth the slog. With each chew came a new surprise. Smack, pop, pow: the sharp lemon grass, the sweet spice of the galangal and coconut juice, the tingle of the garlic, the bite of the salt, the spice of the chilli, the sour kick of the fish paste.

Then there’s the tigerfish that fell apart on my fork and melted in my mouth. Lip-smackingly delicious just doesn’t do it justice, and I’d actually created it – with a little help.

Feeling good, I ground my way through the afternoon to rustle up banana blossom salad made with mint, basil, fishwort, Asian coriander and chicken, followed by sticky rice and mango dessert, draped in palm sugar syrup.

But it was the amok that stayed with me and it was so damn good I’ve been craving it ever since. In fact, I ordered it the other day and it just wasn’t the same so it looks like I’ll have to get myself in the kitchen after all.

Cambodian Cooking Class, Frizz Restaurant, #67 St. 240 ($23 for a full day, $15 for a half day).