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Category: Features

La vie en punk

La vie en punk

A carved-up photograph of Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II with a safety pin through her face has become one of the defining images of punk rock. Created in 1977 by artist Jamie Reid as the cover for the famously banned Sex Pistols’ single God Save the Queen, it cemented the otherwise abstract social ideas the Pistols had sung about a year earlier in Anarchy in the UK. But the roots of punk ideology stretch far beyond the advent of Johnny Rotten; beyond even the sweat-soaked stages of the most venerable punk hang-outs in 1974 New York: clubs like CBGB’s and Max’s Kansas City, where bands such as The Ramones were launching their musical counter-culture manifestos. The seeds of punk’s anarchic politics, far from being American or British, in fact sprouted from mid-20th century French philosophy – philosophy that continues to shape punk to this day. The theory is perhaps most eloquently laid out by Greil Marcus in Lipstick Traces: A Secret History of the 20th Century, in which the author examines punk in the context of everything from Dadaism to Guy Debord. In the prologue, he describes how Johnny Rotten’s first moments in Anarchy in the UK, “a rolling earthquake of a laugh, a buried shout, then hoary words somehow stripped of all claptrap and set down in the city streets…” – I AM AN ANTICHRIST – “remain as powerful as anything I know.” For as Andrew Hussey, head of French and Comparative Studies at the University of London Institute in Paris, once told the BBC: “Punk rock would have happened in the UK without France. But without the French, without their big ideas and their politics and fanaticism, punk rock in the UK would’ve been nothing more than growly old rockers with shorter hair. The real influence of French punk rock lies in the ideas, the style and the ruthless elegance. They never produced a Clash or a Sex Pistols, but what they did was introduce the real politics in punk.” Those politics were the product of Gallic intellectuals hell-bent on cultural subversion and determined to change the world using art and ideas. Led by rebel extraordinaire Debord, they sought disorder versus authority; youthful zeal versus a sclerotic status quo – the very inspiration for what would later be called punk. Debord was a French Marxist theorist, writer, filmmaker and founding member in 1957 of what became known as the Situationist International – a group of rebels whose defining moment came during the Paris riots of May 1968, when they lent philosophical muscle to the students and workers attacking the state. By the time a young Malcolm McLaren arrived at the scene, the streets of Paris were quiet again, but he found and was immediately seduced by Situationist posters bearing slogans such as ‘Be realistic, demand the impossible’ and others that would ultimately find their way into Sex Pistols’ lyrics: ‘Cheap holidays in other people’s misery’; ‘No future.’ Followers of this prankster-turned-philosopher, finally proclaimed a tresor national (‘national treasure’) by the French in 2009, even helped popularise the very technique used by Reid on God Save the Queen: detournement, the process of flipping images directly against themselves and subverting them so that they become ‘cultural weapons’. But the spark that ignited the first flame of punk, ultimately, was one of boredom. Just as the Situationists sought to create a new world order in which urban areas were divided into zones corresponding to specific emotions, a city where you could find yourself in an unexpected ‘situation’ on any street at any moment, so, decades later, punks yearned for radical social change. As Eric Debrais from punk band Metal Urbain, formed in Paris in 1975, remembers: “Everything was black and white: the TV was in black and white, the streets were in black and white. Everyday life was extremely boring; you felt people needed a push so they’d feel alive. The idea was to stir the pot and see what happened and of course people in England were doing the same.” All of this is not entirely lost on Didier Wampas, for the past 30 years lead singer with another French punk band, Les Wampas – one of only a handful to survive beyond the 1980s. Born in 1962 and currently en route to Phnom Penh’s Sharky Bar, he may have been too young to appreciate the philosophy behind the Parisian riots of 1968, but he’s no stranger to music as a vehicle for rebellion. Mention Debord and his Situationists and the affirmations come thick and fast in a French accent equally thick and fast. “Aaaaaaaaaaaaah, yeah yeah yeah,” he bellows over an impossibly awful phone connection from Thailand at the start of Les Wampas’ Asian tour. “Why not? But for me, the beginning of punk rock was in 1976 or 1977. The music is the most important thing for me – the first Ramones album. Punk is about doing what you want; you can make punk music even if you don’t really know how to play. In 1977, every week there was a new single or album. I was listening to all the punk bands: The Clash, The Ramones, the Sex Pistols, The Jam – everything. It was great to be 15 in 1977. I was very lucky.” Wampas is rare among his brethren, refusing for three decades – until May last year – to resign from his job as a public transport electrician despite having produced 11 albums and a top 20 hit. The reason, he says, is that if he were to depend on album sales, it would compromise his artistic independence – a message reinforced with a loathing of artists who exist on government grants. “If you say you’re a punk, to want to have money from the government is crazy. You say you’re anti-system, but you want to have money from the government to play punk rock? I don’t care about working; it’s no problem for me. I can do what I want. I don’t care about radio or TV; I was just working and making music and I don’t care about the rest.” He’s not entirely immune to the trappings of international musicianship, however. Of his first solo album, 2011’s Shut Me Up, he says: “No, no, no. You can’t shut me up. Nobody can. The record company asked me if I wanted to make a solo album and I said no, but then they said ‘Do you want to fly to Los Angeles?’ so I said OK. It was in winter and they said ‘Do you want to go to LA for ten days?’ No problem! I didn’t want to make a solo album; I just wanted to go to Los Angeles. I did all the singing in a one-metre-square cupboard in the producer’s kitchen because it was cheaper than in France. Fun!” Despite having a dig at one of his former bass players on the track Never Trust a Guy Who, Having Been a Punk, is Now Playing Electro’, Didier and his Wampas – who call their take on the genre ‘Ye Ye Punk’ – span a myriad sub-genres, from psychobilly to pop-punk ballads. Les Wampas’ first album, Tutti Frutti from 1984, calls forth the joyous cacophony of everyone from Demented Are Go to The Cramps. “Oh, yes! I love this album but I didn’t want to be in a psychobilly band. I love rock ‘n’ roll and want to play everything, not just one genre. We played with The Meteors, with King Kurt, with all these bands. It was very fun on stage. And we played with The Cramps in the 1990s, which was a mad experience. But in real life, they were just disappointing – no fun at all.” Didier’s latest project is one involving his other band, Bikini Machine, now in the process of recording a new album in London. But if the name sounds as though it was inspired by Dr Goldfoot and the Bikini Machine – a 1965 B roller in which mad scientist Vincent Price creates a gang of bikini-clad female robots with which to seduce and rob rich men – the significance is lost on Didier, who seems more interested in the fact the London studio’s equipment all dated from the 1950s. What is not lost on Didier is how his on-stage philosophy differs from that of the Sex Pistols. Where the Pistols were infamous for spitting at and punching fans, Didier is infamous for singing off-key and in a high-pitched squeak, amd he prefers to climb into his fans’ midst and plant as many kisses on cheeks as possible. But just how long can he keep it up, after a punishing 30 years as a punk frontman? “You just try to stop me! I remember when I was 15, I knew I wanted to play in a rock ‘n’ roll band and I don’t want to stop. If you don’t want to stop, you don’t stop. I eat peanut butter sandwiches, like Elvis! Yes, yes, yes. It’s the secret of rock ‘n’ roll…”

WHO: Les Wampas
WHAT: French ‘Ye Ye Punk’
WHERE: Sharky Bar, St. 130
WHEN: 9pm February 22
WHY: French philosophy inspired punk rock. No, really.

Posted on February 14, 2013June 6, 2014Categories FeaturesLeave a comment on La vie en punk
My brother’s killer

My brother’s killer

‘On the afternoon of the 13th, we thought we could hear a boat engine at intervals throughout the afternoon but we couldn’t be sure. Suddenly, a boat came in closer. I was about to go up on deck when the boat opened fire and sent some shots over our mast.’ – Kerry Hamill’s journal, August 13 1978.

The end, when it finally came, was as unforeseeable as it was barbaric. Foxy Lady, a 28ft traditional Malaysian perahu bedar, was just a few months into what was meant to be the trip of a lifetime. From Darwin harbour on Australia’s rugged northern coast, the tiny yacht had nosed her way through the crystalline waters of the Pacific Ocean, past Timor and Flores, then on to Bali and Singapore, heading up the Straits of Malacca and around the tip of the Malaysian peninsula. On board, a trio of tanned young adventurers passed for captain and crew.

Kerry Hamill was 27 when he wrote his last journal entry from Foxy Lady in August 1978. The eldest son of a tight-knit New Zealand family, he – along with fellow travellers Stuart Glass, a Canadian, and John Dewhirst from England – would within weeks become one of only nine foreigners ever executed by the Khmer Rouge.

At the time, few people outside Cambodia knew of the atrocities being committed. Before Foxy Lady’s course was forever altered, Kerry had sent countless letters back home, regaling his family with breathless tales they’d read aloud by a blazing fire in the coastal wilds of Whakatane. Suddenly, the letters stopped. The silence was deafening. It would be a further 18 months before the Hamills finally discovered what awful fate had befallen their son.

“I remember my mum looking out to sea approaching Christmas time and saying ‘Kerry’s going to come over the horizon and surprise us with tales of his adventures,’” says his little brother Rob, today an Olympic and Trans-Atlantic rowing champion. Their parents, Esther and Miles, fretted about what to do; who to contact. Kerry’s father wrote letters of his own, bashing away furiously at an antiquated typewriter stuffed with carbon sheaves. The theorising began: pirates; maybe a shipwreck. Perhaps their son had just decided to go silent for a while.

Sixteen months later, the phone finally rang – only the voice at the other end wasn’t Kerry’s, but that of a neighbour: ‘Get the local paper.’ John, the second eldest, went to a nearby dairy. There it was, in bold type face on the front page: his brother’s torture and execution at the hands of the Khmer Rouge. A few months later, John – also 27 – walked to the edge of a cliff and jumped. Rob, then 14, sought solace in the numbing arms of alcohol.

Today, asked what he remembers of Kerry, Rob is silent for a moment. Eventually, slowly and deeply, he exhales. Each word is carefully weighed before being spoken. “He was outgoing; his own man. He wasn’t overly demonstrative. He was really calm and just a lovely guy. One of his acquaintances said he was ‘a gorgeous, beautiful man’ and that phrase has stuck with me forever. He was a very able, helpful, loving guy.” [His voice breaks] “I can’t say much more…”

More than 30 years have passed since Foxy Lady was blown off course in a storm, straying into waters controlled by Democratic Kampuchea’s out-of-control Marxist machine. Stuart was shot dead immediately; Kerry and John were taken for interrogation at S-21. John was executed weeks later; two months of torture followed for Kerry. At best, he was blindfolded, taken to a pre-dug trench, made to kneel down beside it, hit over the head with a metal bar, his throat slit, and then buried. At worst, he was dragged into the street and burned alive.

Not knowing why, or even how, has haunted Rob ever since. In 1997, rowing across the Atlantic Ocean with the late Phil Stubbs, his anguish loomed like a tidal wave. “I was grief stricken, even though it had been 20-plus years,” he says from his New Zealand home. “Whether it was through exhaustion, or sleep deprivation, or the connection with the ocean – Kerry had a strong connection with water – every day on the boat, when I was rowing or when I was in the cabin while my teammate was out rowing, he didn’t know but at some point every day I grieved for my brother. It was at that point that I knew I had to do something to pay tribute to his life and to what happened.”

They won the race by a full eight days, but more than a decade passed before the invitation to testify at the Khmer Rouge Tribunal finally came. “When the court case came up, I knew that was the time I was going to go to Cambodia, whether it was just to try to find out more about what happened, or just to honour him. Soon after that, I was contacted by a film producer called James Bellamy to see if I wanted to tell the whole story.”

Thirty-one years to the day that Kerry had first set foot on Cambodian soil, on 13 August 2009 Rob Hamill landed at Phnom Penh International Airport to confront his brother’s torturers. “It was incredibly poignant. The first day I arrived at the airport was very traumatic. When I came through customs I remember the first guy I saw looked like a commander in the Khmer Rouge, with the big hat and the medals. I don’t think I’d ever had my photograph taken at an airport before. They took my passport and then took my photo. I was horrified; really angry. I felt like I was going through the same process my brother had gone through 31 years prior at S-21.

“I got through that and calmed down a bit, then went to get my bags and my mind was going. I saw all these bags coming out on the carousel and they became metaphoric corpses. I went from anger to being quite emotional, suddenly feeling for all the lives that had been affected by the Khmer Rouge. It was a bizarre moment for me. I hadn’t prepared myself for that at all.”

Within the clinical white walls of the Extraordinary Chambers of the Courts of Cambodia, Rob delivered one of the tribunal’s most incendiary testimonies. That time, he was better prepared. As S-21 prison chief Kaing Guek Eav, alias Duch, took the stand, their eyes locked. “He challenged me: it was more than a feeling. The judges came in, we stood up and I looked across the courtroom and he was just staring at me. We stared at each other for about ten seconds. I felt that was quite a challenging thing to do, for someone who was supposedly remorseful and seeking forgiveness. It intrigued me. For me, trying to forgive, it didn’t bode well.”

Reading his victim impact statement out to the court, Rob said: “Duch, at times I have wanted to ‘smash’ you, to use your words, in the same way that you smashed so many others. At times I have imagined you shackled, starved, whipped and clubbed viciously. I have imagined your scrotum electrified, being forced to eat your own faeces, being nearly drowned and having your throat cut. I have wanted that to be your experience, your reality.”

Duch, who admitted overseeing the deaths of at least four of the nine foreigners, told the judges that he couldn’t remember Kerry. “My interpretation of that,” says Rob, “is that it’s a lot worse than I ever could have imagined, so he tried not to even go there because it wouldn’t have made him look any better. I haven’t read every word that was written or that he said in the court, but my general feeling is that there are parts of his testimony that are genuine and heart-felt and really remorseful; the problem is it’s been very inconsistent and contradictory.”

In February 2012, Duch’s 30-year sentence was extended to life imprisonment for his crimes during the murderous rule of the Khmer Rouge. But does Rob believe justice been served? “Having someone be brought to trial and shown up for who they are is important, but justice is bigger than that. It’s more of an overall bigger picture: getting people talking about the issue, about what happened; the trauma inflicted on all the families that were affected by this.”

It’s to this end that Rob agreed to the filming of Brother Number One, an award-winning documentary by Annie Goldson, James Bellamy and Peter Gilbert that follows his journey to the ECCC and is screening at Meta House this week. Along the way, he visits Tuol Sleng, where his brother was tortured; meets three S-21 survivors; and penetrates a Khmer Rouge stronghold to find the Navy officer in charge when Kerry’s yacht was attacked. It is, above all, the story of an innocent man brought to his knees and killed in the prime of his life, and the impact his death had on just one family.

“Here in New Zealand, having this film made and people being able to watch it, and creating this conversation afterwards. I know people have seen the film and have gone away for days, weeks, contemplating it and talking about the ramifications of what happened at that time – and hopefully learning from it. That’s what the court has helped facilitate: books being written; conversations overheard in a cafe. It’s infinite, and that’s where the court has played a bigger role than having one person brought up in front of the world. It’s created a dialogue and that’s incredibly powerful.

“Whether Case 003 goes ahead or not, there’s an opportunity now to start up a Truth and Reconciliation Commission – the South African version of seeking justice. Could something be created in Cambodia to say ‘We 100% guarantee no one else is going to be brought to trial, but you’re probably feeling a lot of guilt about what you did, so come forward, talk about it and let’s get it out there.’?”

As for reconciling his own loss, Rob – whose request for a meeting with Duch has twice been refused – is more circumspect, but says the process of confronting the past for Brother Number One has been “very, very positive”. “If I think deeply about it the emotion starts coming up, which suggests there are issues still there and reinforces that the process of grieving never ends. I still want to meet with Duch. I’d like to find out more about what he was thinking; why he was thinking the way he was thinking and why he did the things that he did; the motives behind it.” [His voice breaks] “I can’t say too much…”

 

Posted on September 25, 2012June 6, 2014Categories FeaturesLeave a comment on My brother’s killer
The Greatest Ladyboy Show On Earth

The Greatest Ladyboy Show On Earth

The red velvet curtains part tantalisingly slowly. Atop a glittery stairway to heaven, a statuesque blonde, pink mini-dress and legs up to her armpits, turns just as slowly and winks even more tantalisingly to her audience. “Diamonds…” she lip-synchs smilingly. “Diamonds…” A gut-wobbling sound system kicks up and suddenly we’re into a cabaret explosion which would certainly put Nicole Kidman into a corner, and might even give Marilyn a run for her money. A phalanx of stunners surround the blonde, twirling and lifting her as she performs feats of derring-do previously thought to be impossible in 5-inch stilettos. These are probably the most beautiful girls you’ve ever seen. Except, as you’ve probably guessed, they’re not ‘girls’; they’re ladyboys.

Welcome to Siem Reap’s Rosana Broadway, the greatest ladyboy cabaret on Earth. Or at least in Cambodia. In fact, it’s the first and only such show in Cambodia. Gay friendly bars such as Phnom Penh’s Blue Chilli and Siem Reap’s Khmer Queen have been putting on drag shows for donkeys’ years, but Rosana Broadway is something else. A 900-seater auditorium, choreographers from Thailand, close to 100 high-kicking ladyboys and transvestites – this is no hole-in-the-wall affair. This is Las Vegas cabaret come to the Kingdom. In fabulous frocks.

General Manager Mr Atth Saengchai is keen to clear up any erroneous presumptions about the sort of outfit he’s running. There will be no funny business at Rosana: “We’re not a bar, not a café. I tell my staff you are talented, you are actresses and you have to be proud.”

Mr Atth knows what he’s talking about. Founder of the famed Calypso club in Thailand, in which Lady Gaga’s bejewelled presence has been spotted, he’s an old hand on the Thai cabaret scene. And quite a scene it is too: venues such as Miss Tiffany’s and Mambo in Pattaya can pull in almost 1,000 punters a show, with up to six performances a day in the tourist high season. Being a star in one of the top Thai cabarets can bring fame and fortune for the luckiest ladyboys.

Moreover, Thailand has had a thriving and increasingly socially accepted gender-bender culture for years. Ladyboys now have jobs in the corporate world as well as in entertainment; the ladyboy volleyball team The Iron Ladies are a national symbol; even the macho world of Thai boxing succumbed years ago to the charm and skills of Nong Tum, renowned for fighting with a full face of slap on, and planting the occasional cheeky kiss on her male opponent.

In Cambodia attitudes can be a little less laissez-vivre. Although Siem Reap and Phnom Penh both have a range of LGBT-friendly venues, traditional ways of thinking have sometimes made life tough for Khmer ladyboys. “Ladyboys here weren’t accepted.” Mr Atth shakes his head wonderingly. “They felt they had to hide something in the daytime, but they are human beings; they should have a better life.”

Backstage at Rosana’s, the rehearsal for that ticket to a better life is in full swing. Ladyboys, transvestites and members of Siem Reap’s gay community are jazz-handing so energetically it looks as though someone might sprain something vital. Diana Ross blasts from enormous speakers as a performer shimmies a perilously perfect bottom and a teenage boy backflips around her, pausing momentarily to grin before busting out some breaks. In high heels. The music morphs into Bollywood, and 20 dancers slip effortlessly into Apsara poses, their tilting heads and hands as beguiling as their shy smiles. The choreographer, in muscle vest and hair band, beats out the rhythm with his foot, while in the corner a gaggle of ‘girls’ are trying on tiaras with an aplomb that makes Kate Middleton look like an amateur. It’s like being on the set of Fame, but with less leg warmers and better hair extensions.

The energy in the room is infectious. That said, this is no summer camp; with two shows a day, 365 days a year planned, Rosana’s performers have to be at the top of their game. Each performance will last over an hour, and will be tailored to fit its audience as snugly as a sparkly leotard. “If we have a majority of Koreans one night, we will include more Korean songs,” explains Mr Atth. “If we have more Chinese, then more Chinese songs. But always this is a Cambodian show. We want local people to feel proud.” The huge phallic representation of Angkor Wat which forms the backdrop of the opening number should do the trick.

The Cambodian focus is mirrored in the performer demographic, with more than 70% Khmer to 30% Thai cast members. Mostly untrained before Rosana rolled into town, the Khmer ladyboys are being mentored by their more experienced Thai counterparts. Ana, the Monroe blonde, is happy to be part of the training process: “I’ve been in cabaret since I was 18, I love to be onstage. But I left Thailand and came here to help ladyboys in Cambodia. Before, they had no jobs – so sad.” She flutters her hands in front of her face and her voice becomes gravelly with emotion. “We did not choose to be born this way, but we are people, just like everyone else.”

Vannara, a 25-year-old Siem Reap native imbued with an elegance for which most women would gladly sacrifice their right arm, is one of those benefiting from Ana’s experience, as much in life as in the art of cabaret. Born to dance, at the age of 12 Vannara used to sneak into Apsara classes: “I didn’t tell anyone in the class I was a boy – no one ever guessed.” Now she says her family are happy she’s found a job at Rosana and can support herself. “It’s a little bit hard here compared to Thailand, but this is just how it is.” She looks up through a miasma of dusky eyelashes and smiles: “Maybe because people like Ana come here things are changing. Now no one around me hates me, because I don’t do anything which is wrong.”

At that moment the choreographer readjusts his hairbow and claps his hands. Twenty ladyboys skip to centre stage and stand, fingers clicking, counting down to what they hope will be the chance of a different way of life. From the wings, a transvestite with pigtails lets out an impromptu “Whoop!” of encouragement. Social attitudes may change slowly, but on this stage, at this very moment, in these sequins, the greatest ladyboy show in Cambodia is about to begin.

WHO: Your friendly local ladyboys
WHAT: Rosana Broadway Cabaret Show
WHERE: National Highway 6, Siem Reap
WHEN: Opening September 15
WHY: Not your average cocks in frocks

Posted on August 30, 2012June 5, 2014Categories FeaturesLeave a comment on The Greatest Ladyboy Show On Earth
Dead fantastic

Dead fantastic

He’s the lead singer of an apocalyptic American alt-rock band famous for destroying instruments on stage, but this soft-spoken second-gen hippy is more at home in his own fantastical Tolkienesque universe – complete with languages, maps and timelines – than he is embodying the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle. When not committing unspeakable acts of violence against guitars, drum kits and the odd piano, Conrad Keely of the ominously titled … And You Shall Know Us By The Trail Of Dead is more often to be found wearing blue ballpoint pens to a nub bringing to life the extraordinary world he’s been constructing in his mind since childhood. This half-Thai half-Englishman, born-in-Britain and raised in Hawaii, was one of the founders, along with childhood pal, drummer, vocalist and guitarist Jason Reece, of the Trail of Dead – a band once described by Rolling Stone magazine’s Andrew Dansby as a “post-punk Voltron that just might be the most exciting unit working today.” The parallel universe Keely, also an accomplished artist, has conjured forth on paper knows no borders: characters, plots, all spill over from sketches and comics straight into his music. As Trail of Dead ready for the release of their eighth album, the material for which was recorded in Germany earlier this year, Keely is working on a graphic novel here in Phnom Penh before their tour of the UK, Germany and Taiwan kicks off in October. The Advisor caught him between local gigs (“When I’m playing here, with the Kampot Playboys or Amanda Bloom and Charlie Corrie, that’s when I get to play stuff that isn’t hard rock, the stuff that I write; things like Hank Snow, Bruce Springsteen, David Bowie – things I like to sing”) to talk Taoism, the new apocalypse, and what it was like knowing Kurt Cobain.

…And You Shall Know Us By The Trail Of Dead sprang from fittingly apocalyptic roots. 

My family moved to Seattle right before the big grunge explosion and it was there, at a college I ended up going to, where the Riot Girl movement started. I saw Nirvana when they were still a small, shitty band. Then I saw them as they got better and better – and then they blew up. In 1993, our lives in Olympia imploded. Not just our lives, but everyone’s lives. Things got really dark. When Kurt Cobain committed suicide, there was this real dark shadow around – everyone knew him and was friends with him. It was a really dark time. A lot of our friends got into drugs; people were dying of overdoses. Jason Reece and I had both had enough and we just said let’s get out of here. We hit on Austin, Texas because no one we knew lived there. We discovered this whole new music scene and latched onto it pretty quickly. Climate-wise it reminded me of Hawaii and even socially people were a lot more laidback and expressive. I felt really at home because people were boisterous and obnoxious in a fun way. That’s where …And You Shall Know Us By The Trail Of Dead started.

There’s a rumour about the name being inspired by a Mayan chant, but that isn’t entirely true, is it?

We’d seen this anime movie called Legend of the Overfiend. There was a scene with this army going through the land and leaving this trail of destruction and desolation, so that’s what I was thinking – the image I came up with while we were driving around coming up with names. I said: [adopts creepy nasal voice] ‘You will know us by the trail of dead.’

In that exact voice, I hope.

[Laughs] In that exact voice – and it made us laugh. I was thinking of Jason’s ex-band-mate, who’d started a band in Olympia called Behead The Prophet And The Lord Shall Live, so the idea of these long Doomsday-sounding band names was on our minds. But that was the name that made us laugh the most.

All these scriptural references: has religion played much of a part in your life?

My mum was raised Catholic, my dad was raised Muslim and my stepfather was involved in this New Age church back before they’d even coined the term ‘New Age’. They were interdenominational – they studied Hari Krishna, Buddhism, everything – and they tried to find fundamental truths in all of them. One of my favourite gospels, which I always go back to for inspiration, is the Gospel of Thomas and that’s been removed from the Bible. It was taken out as an apocryphal gospel during the Council of Nicaea. It’s fascinating: there’s no story in it, just parables, sayings. ‘Jesus said this. Jesus said that.’ In the Bible it says: ‘Give unto Caesar that which is Caesar’s; give unto God that which is God’s,’ but in the Gospel of Thomas it says: ‘Give unto Caesar that which is Caesar’s; give unto God that which is God’s; give unto me that which is mine.’ It’s a very interesting, cryptic twist. It makes you think: what is mine? That became a lyric on our last album, Tao of the Dead. I was raised thinking about spirituality over religion and my parents had a healthy distrust and disdain for organised religion, even though they believed in the idea of Christ and his teachings. So when Jason and I met, I opened him up to all these ideas and theological discussions – that teenaged questioning thing. Then when it came to the band, it was more like these ideas became symbols and themes around which to wrap concepts.

My lyrics have always been a platform for what I’m interested in and I’m genuinely fascinated by these things. We live not in an apocalyptic time, but we’re obviously leading up to something – some massive world event – that’s going to change the way global society has been moving this past 200 years since the Industrial Revolution. We’ve set this ball rolling and it’s impossible for us to stop. All of us know what’s wrong with society: there’s too many cars, there’s too many people, there’s too much pollution, we’re destroying the planet. We can say these things all we want, but the ball is rolling. Are you and I, right now, willing to give up television and the internet and electronics and move into the woods? No. None of us is going to do that. We’re a part of this snowball effect. We’re caught up in it, we’re moving along with it, and it’s just going to play itself out to its logical conclusion. To live in this time is fascinating and frightening at the same time. I address these things in our lyrics.

How much of a crossover is there between your music and your art?

There was a time at 17 or 18 when I was convinced that, because music was such a discipline for me, I couldn’t do art and I actually tried to give up. In that concerted attempt to stop, that was when it came to me that I had to do art: art was not a choice. It’s not a choice for people who have that drive. You have a pen in your hand and a piece of paper and it’s going to come out. So when I took all my stuff back from my agent and said I’m not doing art any more, it was kind of a big deal. It was a symbolic gesture: I wasn’t giving myself any other option but to do music. I think it was this raw passion that music brought out in me.

The picture that led to what I’m working on now is the cover of our sixth album, Century of Self: a boy looking at a skull in this room cluttered with things, which is basically inspired by what my mum’s house looks like. She has Buddhas and books and knick-knacks everywhere. That led to the question who is this boy and what’s he doing here? And that led to the storyline of the last album, which became the graphic novel for the comic, and then this album led to the novel I’m working on, Strange News From Another Planet.

The boy’s name is Adsel and he’s a savant who was found by this monastic sisterhood. Because he’s found to have special powers, they take him to this temple on an island and to get there, he goes onto this ship, The Festival Time, which was one of our songs and I made a graphic out of it. All of these characters are reflections of people I know, periods of my life, and based on my experiences of travelling and touring – even though it’s set in this science fiction fantasy parallel universe.

What would Sigmund Freud make of this universe you’ve created?

Freud? I don’t know. I started world-building when I was nine, shortly after I read The Hobbit for the first time. This world was something I grew up with. It became something that’s so real it’s like an alternate reality that I can go to when things here get too tedious. I did all the typical world-building things, like create languages and maps and timelines.

Art is my celebration of what I love visually, music of what I love to listen to, and writing is my celebration of the language that I love. English has such an amazing history and it’s such an unlikely success story. Patrick O’Brian, author of the Aubrey-Maturin ‘Master and Commander’ series, is definitely one of the masters of the English language and has been a sort of style guide for me. He breaks all the rules.

Are you breaking any rules with Trail of Dead?

In some ways we’re embracing old rules. I believe in the Western music tradition: I love JS Bach and Mozart. A lot of the rules we apply to our music are actually classical things. On this new album, I was really into the idea of musical motifs and there’s this one ascending riff that’s used in four or five different songs deliberately, this running motif that you hear through the album. There’s a few of those, just to create a sense that the album is one work, one piece – a mini symphony. In that sense, I like the old rules that got forgotten about in rock. Rock broke down so many walls. A lot of the kids that were raised with rock didn’t bother to learn those rules, but the pioneers of rock did. You’ve heard of Peaches? We’ve done a tour with her and she’s hilarious; awesome lady. She recently did the Jesus Christ Superstar musical. They did a show in Brooklyn, New York and it was just insane – and it pissed me off because I’d been wanting to do a Jesus Christ Superstar thing for so long. The opera tradition hasn’t died. People don’t necessarily call it opera any more, but the idea of music as narrative and music as high drama still exists.

There’s no shortage of high drama in the new album, if what you just played for me is anything to go by.

People who are familiar with our band and hear this album will say this is the most aggressive Trail of Dead record in a while. A lot of the aggression that I put into music is addressed to other kinds of music.

Hence the lyrics to Worlds Apart: ‘Look at these cunts on MTV / With their cars and cribs and rings and shit / Is that what being a celebrity means? / Look boys and girls here’s BBC / See corpses, rapes and amputees / What do you think now of the American Dream?’

Things that have always irritated me with music are the lack of convictions, an approach to music that doesn’t display great passion. Passion is what music inspired in me and something that I wanted to convey through music. When I saw Bikini Kill playing on stage – I’d see these local bands which are now legendary in reputation – this raw emotion and energy, inspiration, it was almost uncontrollable. I didn’t know what to do with it. It wasn’t the exact same thing I’d feel when I looked at a Warhol painting, you know? Looking at a Monet, I just didn’t feel like jumping up and down. There’s that visceral thing that music can do to you, especially when you’re at that age when your hormones are raging. It’s so physical, the effect of music. I’ve read a couple of books on the psychology of it and I know there’s something special about how vibrations work on the body. That’s what makes music have this ability, this capacity, to change the way people think, and spur these movements. It’s very powerful: it changes chemicals in the brain; it creates endorphins and does all these really weird things. I didn’t know that at the time, when I was young, but I knew that music created the most powerful passion in me.

 

WHO: Musical prophets
WHAT: Conrad Keely and friends
WHERE: Equinox, St. 278 (Aug 25), and The Willow, St. 21 (Aug 31)
WHEN: 9pm August 25 and 31
WHY: The beginning is nigh

Posted on August 23, 2012May 30, 2014Categories FeaturesLeave a comment on Dead fantastic
50 Licks

50 Licks

Celebrating half a centuryof the world’s greatest rock ‘n’ roll band

The fuzzy monochrome photo, taken in 1950 at Wentworth Primary School in the UK, gives not the slightest hint of the superstardom to come. To the left of the frame, a clean-cut eight-year-old boy with lopsided fringe stands to attention in short trousers and pullover. Dead centre in the row behind, another boy – five months younger – grins wickedly, school tie askew and ears jutting out like the wings of a small aircraft. Little could these fresh faces have known that, more than six decades later, they would be chalking up half a century as the core of the world’s greatest rock ‘n’ roll band.

Mick Jagger and Keith Richards, sole survivors of the original Rolling Stones line-up, were just four years old when destiny first conspired to bring them together. They parted ways when their families moved home, but collided again at Dartford train station one day en route to their respective colleges. The Chuck Berry and Muddy Waters albums Jagger had with him reignited their mutual interest and by the summer of 1962, a nervous band called the Rollin’ Stones was playing their first gig to a bemused crowd of jazz fans in a basement club on London’s Oxford Street.

On the front line that muggy night at The Marquee was lead vocalist Jagger, then 18 and a student at the London School of Economics; his old grammar school pal Richards, clad in funereally dark suit; and 20-year-old Brian Jones, who had recently named the band after a Muddy Waters song and for most of the show, according to Stones’ biographer Christopher Sandford, “pogoed up and down, leering at the women”. Behind them was the already comically deadpan rhythm section.

Rehearsal time had been limited, and as the band officially billed Mick Jagger and the Rollin’ Stones downed scotches and brandies on stage to calm their nerves, the assembled Buddy Holly doppelgangers took their time warming to the 50-minute blast of American rhythm and blues. Catcalls brought on by the initial “very suspect tuning and internal balance”, as described by Melody Maker magazine the following week, were silenced during the final 15 minutes when the band upped the tempo. The acne-scarred second guitarist, dressed entirely in black, spurred on the drummer by hammering one spindly leg up and down and screeching “Fuck you! Faster!”

After the gig, the band wandered unrecognised down the road and into The Tottenham pub, where they were joined by part-time drummer Charlie Watts. Watts had seen the show and recognised the Stones’ appeal. “My band was a joke to look at, but this lot crossed the barrier,” he said. “They actually looked like rock stars.” By Christmas of that year, Watts was the Stones’ new drummer.

No one, least of all the band themselves, guessed at the time that they were bound for the 21st century. But as Chris Welch of The Bexleyheath & Welling Observer wrote just 18 months later, “Of all the sensational groups to hit British pop music since the advent of the Mersey Sound and the rhythm ‘n’ blues revival, the weirdest, oddest, the most uncompromising seem to be the Rolling Stones.”

“I didn’t expect to last until 50 myself, let alone with the Stones,” says the 68-year-old Keith Richards of today on rollingstones.com. “It’s incredible, really. In that sense we’re still living on borrowed time.” But while the Glimmer Twins who shocked our parents with Mars Bars, dope and sympathy for the devil may look a little worse for wear, the gnarled ex-junkie and the balloon-lipped Jagger seem to have vanquished their many drug- and wife-induced demons. As half a century clicks by, the Stones stand ranked number four in Rolling Stone magazine’s 100 Greatest Artists of All Time, and worldwide sales are estimated at more than 200 million albums.

It was on the eve of yet another milestone that local tribute band Stoned Again first came to be. Prodded by the managers of Sharky Bar into giving the nod to what is widely considered their finest album, a small group of expat musicians joined forces to recreate the sound of 1972 LP Exile on Main Street. Australian Karen McArthur is the outwardly unlikely lead vocalist of what was first known as The Stone Daddies and then Captain Jack before its current incarnation. “Originally we just played a set from Exile and got a really good response from the audience. Everyone was like ‘Wow, there’s a chick singing Mick Jagger.’

“I was teaching grade ones at the time so I constantly had a cold and could always get the gravel in my voice, which was great: the Mick Jagger growl. You know what it’s like in Phnom Penh: you can reinvent yourself however you want and I hadn’t sung since I left university, so that’s 23 years. I used to sing punk, rock ‘n’ roll, blues. But it’s not about being Mick Jagger – affectionately, we call me Chick Jagger – it’s about being myself and having fun.

“A lot of people have said that it’s interesting that we have a woman singing, but as we always said, we never wanted to have someone who was a bad imitation of Mick Jagger. If you’re going to be a cover band, you have to give it your own flavour. The band we have now, we all fit really well together. I can rely on James to entertain the audience, or we can have some banter on stage. We’re all really comfortable with each other. We’ve gone from just playing the album, to the music being part of the band.”

After a nine-month hiatus, Stoned Again took the stage at Sharky’s Penhstock III festival in May and have since been voted, on the bar’s blog, second best out of the 30 bands that played (Sliten6ix are currently leading with 47% of the vote versus Stoned Again’s 24%). But don’t expect carbon copies: “At first, we had a band member who wanted to be really true to the album and if I didn’t sound exactly like Mick’s phrasing, he’d go ‘No, no, it’s not right,’” says Karen. “We came to an agreement that we needed to put our own flavour to it, so I sang it the way it suited my voice.”

“There is only one Rolling Stones, and that’s not who we are,” says bass player Tim, owner of British pub The Cavern. “What we do is a tribute, just showing our appreciation for their music.” Because Stoned Again aren’t trying to emulate the Stones but simply pay respect, there’s a noticeable lack of the frippery so synonymous with the real thing. “The whole point of our band isn’t to be a really bad imitation; it’s about celebrating a really good group of rock ‘n’ roll musicians,” says Karen. “It’s quite freeing being a girl. I did one gig in a dress – and the audience just didn’t get it. ‘What are you wearing a dress for?’ I’m a girl!

“Whatever songs we play, by the end of the first set people are up dancing. They know we’re not an imitation, but an interpretation. For me, it’s more about symbols: whenever I hear The Rolling Stones, I see those big lips, always, always. I could never be Mick Jagger – and I would never take enough Botox to make my lips look like that!”

WHO: Stoned Again
WHAT: The ultimate Rolling Stones tribute band
WHERE: Sharky Bar, St. 130
WHEN: 9pm August 24
WHY: 50 years is a bloody long time in rock ‘n’ roll

 

Posted on August 16, 2012May 30, 2014Categories FeaturesLeave a comment on 50 Licks
In the name of love

In the name of love

She describes herself as a ‘one-woman worldwide wreckin’ machine’, was instrumental in the launch of MTV Base Africa, and is the only female ever to be nominated for a MOBO (Music of Black Origin) award. DJ Sarah Love, spinning at Pontoon later this month, was christened the UK’s First Lady of Hip Hop for a reason – and she’s on a zealous mission to bring the genre to some of the most remote corners of the Earth. The Advisor caught up with her between rock climbing expeditions in Thailand to talk DNA, spinning the wheels of steel with Grandmaster Flash, and the ongoing battle to keep hip hop culture alive and kickin’ it.

You describe yourself as a ‘genetic musician’.

Yeah, my mum’s South African and my dad is British. They’re both jazz musicians , and my mum’s an African musician too, so quite a mixture of sounds. My dad’s really into bebop: his main instrument is double bass, but he also plays trumpet and piano, and my mother’s a singer.

Why did you opt for electronic music?

I’ve been interested in music since a very young age. I’ve played piano, drums. Music’s always been there, and my parents’ record collection was always there. They were very much into soulful music, funk, dope party-rockin’ kinda tunes. My older sisters introduced me to hip hop. I had this nerdy fascination with music. I didn’t just want to be on the sidelines, I wanted to be involved. I wanted to find out how those sounds were made, to know what was going on. My own curiosity pushed me into investigating hip hop. What is this DJ thing? What are they doing? How is that happening? I had a boyfriend who was also a DJ, and I asked him to show me some things on the turn table but he refused. I was, like, ‘Cool. Fine.’ I thought, ‘Good. I’m happy to do it myself anyway.’ My parents taught me to be very independent. I watched DJs I thought were really good, and tried to memorise what they were doing. I’d go home and practice, see if I could recreate what I’d seen. It’s a ‘monkey see, monkey do’ sort of thing. Making mistakes is a great learning curve.

And you’re a graduate of one of the UK’s finest music schools.

I went to one of the pioneering schools for popular music, Salford University in Manchester, and did a popular music and recording degree. Salford was the first place in the UK that did a non-traditional, popular music recording and production-style degree.

You’ve worked with some of the greats, including Grandmaster Flash, who was here a few months ago.

He’s a real grand master in the game, a bona fide legend. It’s only a privilege and an honour to be able to rub shoulders with someone as accomplished as that, really, isn’t it? And DJ Muggs from Cypress Hill, he was just a laid-back, cool Cali cat with a cool Cali vibe. Chilled dude. But it’s always interesting to encounter all sorts of creative types at different levels in their careers and see how they handle that.

How has hip hop changed since you first took to the decks?

In the UK, there’s lots of electronic music that people are rapping on top of, but I differentiate between that and hip hop, which has a long history – three decades plus, almost as long as hip hop has been around in America. It’s a dedicated crowd. We’re all musical connoisseurs. That’s why hip hoppers are able to spin off and create other movements. Anything that’s dope has to come through the UK at some point. It’s like a melting pot for all the freshest stuff in the world. London is always a place to keep your eyes on, whether it’s live music, electronic, or hip hop. We’re always going to have hip hop aficionados to keep the bloodline going.

We’re a bit of a melting pot here too, with returnees from France and the US. Hip hop has a huge following. 

It’s fascinating to touchdown in any part of the world and be playing hip hop. It’s incredible to spend 12 hours on a plane and people know the music, and there’s a history of hip hop there. To encounter b boys, and graffiti, it’s just crazy. I feel it’s my responsibility to fly the flag for hip hop responsibly and correctly, to spread the word and keep our culture vibrant and alive.

There are so many DJs who’ve been around longer than me, but have sold out because they don’t feel confident. I just want to do what I feel passionate about. It’s not all about just chasing cheques. I want to do something that has meaning to me, so it’s an honour for me to be able to reach somewhere like Phnom Penh and spin for you guys, bring hip hop correct to the people.

With the launch of MTV Base Africa, you seem to be growing into an ambassadorial role.

I’d been an MTV DJ so when they asked me to be an ambassador for the launch, I came through to Nairobi in Kenya and had a phenomenal time. It was dope to be in the motherland, you know, and doing my thing there. Then I went through to DJ in Tanzania, and they have a dope, dope hip hop history there. I did a show with Fid Q, in Dar Es Salaam – a big outdoor party with 3,000 kids there and they’re all rapping the lyrics to his song; just beautiful. These are the messages and stories that I want to spread when I go back home, because people think we’re facing all these challenges in hip hop. A lot of people in the States are quite disheartened with hip hop, hence they become sell-outs. They need to know. You know what? There’s stuff going off in Tanzania; there’s stuff going off in Cambodia. There are things going off in Australia. Hip hop around the world is bigger than your back garden.

So it stands for something?  

Most definitely, hip hop has a very strong meaning and this is the message that needs to be clearer. There’s hip hop, and there’s rap. Rap music is songs that just have rapping on them; hip hop music is a whole culture, nearly four decades deep, that embodies dancing; it’s all about creativity, expression, community, and being funky fresh. It’s something that involves speaking in rhyme with flow and beat. It’s something also that embodies respect for heritage: you have to look at what has gone before you, do your research, and then cultivate that and bring it all together in something new. Hip hop is a culture that’s all about the people. It was originally for disenfranchised people who had no other outlet, a way of channelling ourselves in a positive way. People who were left behind by the government: ‘Oh, right. No one’s taking care of us? Let’s take care of ourselves.’ That’s what hip hop is really about, and it’s only in recent years that it’s become this corporatised thing and certain entities see it as a way to manipulate youths to make money out of them. It’s a shame that certain people from our community have got sucked into that and are now sucking the devil’s cock.

Who should we be looking up to?

Marvin Gaye said an artist, if they’re a true artist, is only interested in one thing and that’s to move the minds of men. So for me, people like Shortcut, who I’m going to see next week; people like Shortee Blitz, Taskforce, and Rodney P of London Possee from the UK; I have so much admiration for them.

And what’s on your playlist right now?

I listen to everything: rock, soul, classical. My favourite kind of music is good music. There are only two types of music in the world: good music and bad music. I’m not someone who goes ‘I only listen to hip hop and I have no ears for anything else.’ But hip hop-wise, there’s an artist called Willie Evans Jr – he’s on a great label in the States called High Water Music, and they’re really flying the flag for great independent music. There’s an artist called Sonnyjim on Eat Good Records who is really killing it – a very dope artist from the UK. Definitely worth checking out.

Take us back to the early days of Kung Fu: what was it like being on the front line of one of London’s most legendary club nights?

I remember, every night at the time, feeling that this was something classic. I just wanted to absorb every moment of what was going on. I knew we were going to be looking back at this as something classic – and I was right. It was incredible. I was in Melbourne, Australia last month and I’d just walked into a bar and this guy was, like, ‘You’re Sarah Love! From Kung Fu! You don’t understand – the DVD from Kung Fu, how much that means to us out here! We watch it religiously!’ You had to be there every month. Every month we had a queue going round the block. You didn’t want to miss out and we always put on the best party in town. It was so exciting for me to play. I just wanted to kill it. We had the illest DJs in London playing, and it really pushed me to get my chops up because I didn’t want to look silly next to anyone else. It was an honour for me to be a resident and to see what it escalated into.

Do you ever have moments when it suddenly hits you that you’re now this huge DJ?

I’m always thinking of my next target, so I don’t reminisce too much. When you sit back and start going, ‘I’ve made it. Look how amazing I am,’ that’s when you stop challenging yourself. I’ve not reached that stage yet, and then there’s always someone bigger than you round the corner, isn’t there?

And even if there isn’t, the Gods of Smug are listening and will smite thee…        

[laughs] Exactly!

So what’s next?

I’ve spent the past 12 years pushing myself like crazy, at the expense of everything else in my life, and it’s easy to do that when you love what you’re doing. I’m trying to pay attention to other areas of my life that I’ve been neglecting, and I’ve got some interesting projects back in the UK, but I don’t like talking about things until they’re happening. I’m paranoid about jinxing things…

WHO: DJ Sarah Love (MTV Bass and BBC Radio 1Xtra)
WHAT: The UK’s first lady of hip hop
WHERE: Pontoon, St. 172
WHEN: 11pm August 17
WHY: She’s funky fresh

 

Posted on August 9, 2012May 30, 2014Categories FeaturesLeave a comment on In the name of love
Fonki Town

Fonki Town

On the whitewashed walls of Phnom Penh’s French Institute, something mysterious is taking shape. A wrinkled hand emerges, a smile tilts shyly for the camera, a pair of black eyes gaze unblinkingly at the street below. Faces, a family, a stippled memory wholly personal yet, paradoxically, nationally pertinent.

The normally sedate French Institute is not the only Phnom Penh structure to be lent some graffiti cred by Fonki, a Khmer-French-Canadian street artist. One month into his fourth sojourn Fonki selected a rundown section of Russian Boulevard as the locus for his initial Phnom Penh paint-up, with full and smiling permission of the building owner. Mixing rad Montreal lettering with trad Khmer kbach aesthestics of form and colour, the piece was a hit. “For me the whole process was awesome,” enthuses Fonki. “People are curious, especially the kids. You’re there for four days and you know the whole neighbourhood.”

Knowing the whole neighbourhood can have its downsides, though; the neighbourhood watchdogs know you just as intimately. Barely a week after Russian Boulevard was given its make-over, Fonki returned to find his work inexplicably white-washed. He is surprisingly sanguine about the effacement: “The chief of police, he said ‘Yeah! Do your thing!’ So I thought it was it cool. Then after a week they buffed it! But I don’t mind, you know. Graffiti is epheremal.”

Perhaps paradoxically, Fonki is using this ephemeral and oft-maligned genre to express the inescapable truths of family, nation and identity. Both the mural adorning the Institute – the largest yet in the 22-year-old’s career – and the short-lived work on Russian Boulevard (not to mention the myriad ideas gestating in Fonki’s capacious, electrifying, high-speed brain) address ideas of permanence and contemporaneity, of past and present. This is no surprise given his family history.

As Khmer Rouge troops closed in on the beleaguered capital in 1975, Fonki’s parents fled to France and then Montreal, where the young graffiti artist was born and raised. “I’d always been drawing,” he says. “My parents never complained or showed their sadness… but I could feel some of that. I couldn’t complain or be the sad guy after everything they’d been through, so I put all my energy into street art. I realised I’d always been doing graffiti but I didn’t know it!”

While innocently making his mark as the new graffiti kid on Montreal’s urban block, Fonki immersed himself in illustration, studying animation and film at Concordia University with an old friend, Jean-Sebastien Francoeur. The twosome teamed up with Andrew Marchand-Boddy, who divides his time between winning film awards and doing flip-tricks at his local skate park, and decided to make an off-the-cuff 15 minute short about Fonki’s prodigal return to Cambodia.

Several months and 80 minutes of celluloid later, Wet Paint is a bona fide feature film in progress. It follows Fonki from Montreal to Phnom Penh, spray can in hand, giving workshops to Khmer kids and revivifying the rotting walls of Phnom’s Penh’s forgotten buildings. “This is a beautiful city,” explains Fonki, “but it’s changing so fast. That’s why I had to come now. My generation is craving… something… solidarity, identity… something.”

It’s that elusive something that Wet Paint hopes to uncover, positing freestyle art as the expressive mode of choice for the post-genocide generation. And despite Phnom Penh’s notable dearth of visual street art, Fonki feels the city is poised for a distinctively Cambodian graffiti revolution: “Our culture has so much richness of form and colour, we could do so much. In the ’80s and ’90s we couldn’t move forward, we had to try to save what had been eradicated. But now I think this generation can move forward. Now, right now, we can build an identity and be proud to be Cambodian. When you paint in Cambodia, you paint your own story, sure, but you also paint the story of your family. And the story of every other family as well, and more than that.

“But hey I don’t know, I’m just a painter,” he laughs. “For sure I’m not going to save any lives with graffiti – I’m not a doctor! But there’s one thing I always say: add colour to your present if your past seems grey. When I came here and I thought about that, I thought, yeah, everybody lost someone in the genocide. But you know something? The future is now.”

Fonki’s largest ever mural will be unveiled on July 26 at the Institut Francais du Cambodge, with live music and entertainment.

WHO: Fonki
WHAT: Street art
WHERE: Institut Francais du Cambodge, St. 184
WHEN: 6:30pm July 26
WHY: Behold the awesome power of the spray can

 

 

Posted on July 26, 2012May 27, 2014Categories FeaturesLeave a comment on Fonki Town
Hobbits!

Hobbits!

“This has nothing to do with the Tolkien universe at all. A pre-hominid little person in Indonesia, nicknamed Flo, that’s the real hobbit. The film is based on what those people would have been like. They’re trying to tie in a little science, but then we have flying kimodo dragons, so it’s not 100%, you know, factual, obviously.”

BY PHOENIX JAY

When the frenzied spending of the roaring ‘20s dealt the US stock market a fatal blow in October 1929, Americans who’d been gilding their homes with the latest gadgets suddenly found themselves out of a job. The global crisis, initially dismissed by President Hoover as “a passing incident in our national lives”, put more than 15 million Americans – a quarter of the labour force – out of work. As disposable incomes dwindled, so did audiences at movie theatres: more than a third of the 23,000 that existed in 1930 were forced to switch off their projectors.

Those who refused were reduced to offering ever-more-unlikely appetisers to splice bums with seats. Prize draws promised everything from hams to cars; colourful vaudeville acts were staged on the sidelines. But the most effective formula by far was the ‘double feature’: two films for the price of one. The big-budget ‘A’ movie, given top billing, employed bona fide stars, quality scripts and professional production standards. The other movie, shot on a shoestring, was wildly entertaining, but made in a fraction of the time, at a fraction of the cost.

More than 75% of Hollywood films shot between the 1930s and 1950s were these so-called ‘cheapies’, which, on occasion, trounced their big-budget counterparts. John Wayne and Jack Nicholson both cut their teeth on the set of B movies, natural habitat for cult directors such as Ed Wood and his low-budget Dracula, Béla Lugosi. Perhaps most famous among their creators were the ‘Poverty Row’ production companies, who could shoot an entire film in seven days for less than $8,000.

“Most B movies are bad and forgotten,” writes Philip French in The Observer. “But at their worst they have an unpretentious, sometimes camp, charm. At their best they are as different from smooth A movies as the great pulp writers like David Goodis and Horace McCoy were from the respectable best-selling novelists of the day… One of the greatest cinematographers, Robert Alton, who won an Oscar for An American in Paris, preferred to work on low-budget movies shot on tight schedules because of the challenge they presented.”

Such knowledge is not lost on Anthony Fankhauser, the producer of Hollywood B movies Snakes on a Train, and Mega Shark versus Giant Octopus, among other tongue-firmly-in-cheek titles. He has spent the past two weeks crammed into a small cave in the wilds of Kampot, alongside hobbits, prehistoric Java men, the odd giant, and at least one large ‘flying’ kimodo dragon made of papier-mâché.

“There are only so many movies that can be made at studio level, but there’s an insatiable desire for new content – and that’s not just in America, it’s everywhere. If you go to Cannes Film Festival, for example, what runs concurrently with that is the Cannes Film Market and they sell all kinds of movies. If you walk through there, you’ll see your Batmans, all your big studio movies, and then, on the second floor, they have booths and booths of movies very much like this. There’s a big market for what I guess you could call second-tier content. And people enjoy them.”

Fankhauser, clad in shorts, plaid shirt and flat cap, is speaking on a set devoid of all the usual Hollywood trappings, eating rice while squeezed into a plastic picnic chair (his job title is conspicuously absent from the back). “Of course, I’m a fan. At the time, they probably weren’t considered B movies, but for me it was the Roy Harryhausen movies: Clash of the Titans, Jason and the Argonauts, stuff like that. I was fascinated by monsters and other creatures from a very young age.”

On another table under the far side of this vast canopy sits a small army of little people dressed in mock animal skins. Among them the notably taller ‘Java men’, sporting glued-on uni-brows that sprout from their foreheads like tarantula legs. One has a lethal-looking spiked wooden club dangling from one hand, a cigarette jabbing at his lips from the other. Bending over to hook a Coke out of the cooler reveals a flash of fake designer boxers. He grins at the camera, lips parting to reveal fake buck teeth.

These unlikely dwellers of 21st century rural Cambodia are, along with one or two rather more recognised names such as The Crow star Bai Ling and Christopher Judge (Teal’c in TV’s Stargate SG-1), the hastily assembled cast of The Age of the Hobbits. The film is timed to beat its mainstream rival – director Sir Peter Jackson’s Hobbit trilogy, inspired by the work of celebrated author JRR Tolkien – to screens before the year’s end. While Jackson’s prequel to the Lord of the Rings blockbuster has a budget of $500 million, The Age of the Hobbits’ is $500,000, most of which will be spent on post-production, or the sort of special effects that make kimodo dragons take flight. Filming took just 15 days.

This gloriously camp straight-to-TV ‘mockbuster’ is set 12,000 years ago in Indonesia, where the remains of one of mankind’s possible predecessors – rudely snuffed out since by the cruel processes of evolution – was identified in 2003. Barely a metre tall and even smaller of brain, Homo floresiensis was immediately christened ‘the Hobbit’ by a Tolkien-crazed media. One scientist even suggested naming the species Homo hobbitus.

In Hollywood, initial film pitches have to be 25 words or less (the pitch for Alien was, famously, even more to-the-point, reading simply: ‘Jaws in space’). “The idea behind this film,” says Fankhauser, “is just… hobbits. And there’s an immediate recognition of that word. This has nothing to do with the Tolkien universe at all. A pre-hominid little person in Indonesia, nicknamed Flo, that’s the real hobbit. The film is based on what those people would have been like. They’re trying to tie in a little science, but then we have flying kimodo dragons, so it’s not 100%, you know, factual, obviously.”

The script is hardly Oscar-winning material: “It’s a pretty clear-cut story. The hobbits’ village is raided by Java men, who also existed in Indonesia at the same time. They steal a bunch of their people and they’re going to sacrifice them to the moon goddess. Lots of people get picked off along the way. Yes, we have some impalement, but the piranhas got changed to giant spiders.”

Suggest the plot sounds reminiscent of real-life tensions between the Javanese and the Balinese and the producer laughs. “Doesn’t it, though? I’m sure the writer was aware of that. If you go back to old school science fiction – The Twilight Zone, The Outer Limits – there always seemed to be a moral to the story. A lot of that’s been lost in recent B movies. Now it’s more just shock and awe, try to pack in as many visual effects as you can. But any writer who heard me say that would slap me in the face because they all try – I know they do, because some get busted for it – they all try to put subtexts and morals in the script, which you have to, otherwise why write the movie? I think Scorsese called it ‘idea smuggling’.”

Joe Lawson, directing this Tolkien knock-off, made his debut with The Institute LLC – the international arm of Hollywood studio The Asylum – earlier this year with the splendidly named Nazis at the Centre of the Earth. “What happens with a B film is that, hopefully, you walk in knowing that it’s not going to be the best thing in the universe, but it might be monumentally entertaining,” he says from beneath the brim of his legionnaire’s hat, perched on a rock in the searing afternoon sun. Behind us, Cambodian hobbits and Javans – some trained comedians and stage actors, others hired on spec – are smoking, giggling and poking each other with their clubs between takes. The role of King Korm, head of the humans, went to Phnom Penh-based beat poet and actor Antonis Greco after being turned down by John Rhys-Davies, the charismatic Arab excavator Sallah in the Indiana Jones films.

“And that’s the thing: the ride is going to be worth the time taken. It’s an hour and a half when you don’t have to think, and you don’t have to spend a lot of money for it. Our movies are about popping the popcorn in the oven, opening a beer; you can even sit back and make fun of it – so long as you’re having fun making fun of it. There are things we do in our films that are outrageous, absolutely outrageous – like Nazis at the Centre of the Earth. The title itself is already way out there. The company that we’re part of is definitely not shy about making films that are fun. And the people who are working on these films, if they’re not having fun, they’re learning something – even if that something is ‘I never want to work on a film like this again.’”

WHO: Hobbit fetishists
WHAT: Age of the Hobbits
WHERE: TV
WHEN: December-ish
WHY: Little people in leather

 

Posted on July 26, 2012May 30, 2014Categories FeaturesLeave a comment on Hobbits!
rhymes of season

rhymes of season

When Sok Visal touched down

in Phnom Penh in 1993, he came face to face with a city down on its luck. Torn by 20 years of internecine strife, the streets still echoed with the sounds of war: staccato trills of gunfire, the roar of UNTAC’s armoured cars. Visal, fresh from the housing projects of Paris, was also down on his luck: drinking beer, smoking weed, running with the wrong crowd. “My life wasn’t going anywhere. I had to make a choice. I came here looking for something.”

Fast forward nearly two decades. Sitting in his sleek new recording studio, discussing his record label while the trailer for his first co-directed feature film plays in the background, Visal seems to be a man who has found what he was looking for. His story of a Cambodian boy made good is, in one way, the story of Cambodia itself. As Visal comes into his creative prime as music producer, festival organiser, film director and all round urban mogul, Phnom Penh is experiencing a cultural renaissance similar to that of the swinging ‘60s, Cambodia’s ‘golden age.’

By the mid ‘70s of course, the Golden Age was over. In 1975 Visal’s parents fled the encroaching KR cadres, first to a Thai refugee camp then on to France. Moving from housing project to housing project, Visal struggled in school and became increasingly drawn to urban sub-culture. “At night I was sneaking out onto the streets to do graffiti. At one point my mother got scared I was turning bad, I got into trouble for vandalism and stuff. She got scared of losing me, so she sent me to the States.”

Like so many Khmer refugees, he discovered the States wasn’t all apple pie. “I thought I’d find the American dream like on the TV, but it wasn’t like that. I left the housing project in France only to land in a Khmer community where everyone was on welfare, gambling, kind of a mess.” He credits graffiti and hip hop with helping him survive.

When he returned to France he carried on rapping and tagging round the banlieues. “I didn’t have a job; I was hanging around smoking weed. But I felt I wasn’t born for that, I felt I was more of an artist. So I came back to Cambodia.”

Restarting life wasn’t easy, but once again hip hop saved him: “While I was working I was hanging around with a bunch of Khmer American returnees, ex-gangsters from Long Beach, and we listened to rap every night.” One of the guys, DJ Sop, became the first person to produce a Khmer hip hop album, combining industry beats with Khmer rappers. I wished I coulda been part of it. But I had a lot of personal problems in those days…”

So Visal kept his head down, quietly remixed Sop’s tracks and got his life back on track. Finally, he was ready. “In 2004 I produced my first album. I don’t know if it went well, but… it went! I just made a few copies of the album and gave it away, it wasn’t a business. The whole thing was just to help us get down with the edgy kids, the kids who loved hip hop. It started to get big. And that was the start of Klap Ya Handz.”

Less of a record label, more of a creative collective of hip hop crazy kids, KYH has a sound all its own. Reworking Khmer pop from the 1960s and ’70s, KYH is determinedly local: “If you listen to most of my mixes I try to keep a very traditional sound. I don’t use a bit of Khmer sample and turn it into gangsta hip hop. My music has the sound of the Khmer beat, the sarawan beat, the sound of Cambodia.” Listening to tracks by Klap Ya Handz alumni like Kdep, Khmer Rap Boyz and Pu Khlaing is a schizophonic experience, oscillating between Khmer Wall of Sound samples and brownstone beats, quickfire rap weaving through the rhythm like a rush-hour moto. And although he’s now diversifying the sound, “mixing Khmer music with bossa and reggae and jazz,” Visal is adamant about one thing: “It has to remain edgy, and that means staying urban. We don’t want to go pop and flowers and bubblegum. We don’t want to go… K-pop.” He seems disgusted at the thought.

True to these urban roots, Visal is organising Rise Up II in October, an all day mash-up of live hip hop from the likes of Dollah and Prolyfik, as well as dance-offs, rap-offs and art events. “The first Rise Up (2010) was about showing people we were here. Now it’s about showing people there is an alternative. You have another choice, an original sound home-grown in Cambodia. You don’t have to listen to… K-pop.” More disgust.

Possibly to provide a further alternative to the spectre of Korean ditties, Visal set up his film production company, 391 Films, in 2009. Three years later, Comfortably Lost, a feature film on which he was first assistant director, is piquing the interest of distributors in Cannes. The story of a disenchanted American photographer who comes to Cambodia and sees life through Cambodian eyes, Comfortably Lost obviously fills Visal with pride. “For me it’s a road movie – in fact it’s probably the first Cambodian road movie! The hero finds inspiration in Cambodia. But he’s not the main guy, really. The main characters are the Khmer people and the scenery, the country itself. It’s a very positive film, it moves away from the clichés of the killing fields and the Khmer Rouge.”

For Visal, these tired and tiring clichés misrepresent today’s Cambodia: “People shouldn’t forget about those things but it’s time to move forward. I believe Khmer people have art in their blood. I don’t think they were made to go to war; they’re artists before everything else. They are musicians, architects, painters and dancers: I don’t think they were born to do anything but that.”

Visal leans back in his chair and winds up the interview. “There’s something going on right now… and this is only the beginning.” Welcome to the Golden Age.

WHO: Sok Visal
WHAT: Urban media mogulWHERE: Phnom Penh
WHEN: The Second Golden Age (or, more specifically, Rise Up 2 in October)
WHY: Home-grown hip hop

 

Posted on July 19, 2012May 27, 2014Categories FeaturesLeave a comment on rhymes of season
“The horror! The horror!”

“The horror! The horror!”

“He asked me what reasons, more than a mere wandering inclination, I had for leaving father’s house and my native country, where I might be well introduced, and had a prospect of raising my fortune by application and industry, with a life of ease and pleasure. He told me it was men of desperate fortunes on one hand, or of aspiring, superior fortunes on the other, who went abroad upon adventures, to rise by enterprise, and make themselves famous in undertakings of a nature out of the common road…” Daniel Defoe, Robinson Crusoe.

Because of their dislocation, expats have made interesting protagonists for stories from the earliest beginnings of literature. Odysseus, Moses or Sinbad are just some of the characters from traditional tales that are travelling far away from the places where they were brought up.

In Western novels from the 18th century onwards, with the advent of both colonialism and the novel, the character of the expat has taken on a different slant. In these books, the protagonists are no longer primarily adventurers and explorers of strange, foreign countries. Rather, the places where these people find themselves serve as a backdrop for the development of their character, may it be a moral triumph, may it be their downfall. That´s why these books, as old as they may be, are of interest to readers who – like the many expats here – have to find a way to define their existence in an alien culture. In what follows, I would like to offer a selection of readings that should be beneficial to expats in Cambodia.

There are some canonical books expats should read if they want to understand the country where they have decided to spend some time of their life: the books on the history of Cambodia by Milton Osborne or David Chandler; Zhou Daguan´s account of life in the Angkor period; the Khmer folk tales and sayings that have been published in a number of books; the histories of the Khmer Rouge period by Ben Kiernan, Elizabeth Becker and again Chandler and Osborne. Once you are through with these, you might be interested in reading other historical accounts of life far away from home.

All the books I have chosen are from the colonial period, and they are often full of opinions on and descriptions of ‘the natives’ that today appear politically incorrect, if not downright racist. Western literature from Robinson Crusoe onwards was tightly intertwined with the colonial project and its assumption of cultural superiority of the colonisers over the colonised. For eloquent formulations of the imperialist mindset, one has to look no further than to Rudyard Kipling´s two notorious poems The White Men´s Burden and The Road to Mandalay. The hypocritical delusion of a ‘Mission civilisatrice’ – a civilising mission that the white colonisers had in their colonies and protectorates – did not only fuel French colonialism. It also underlies the works of authors who are highly respected writers until today. Nevertheless, the challenges and quandaries that the heroes of those books had to face might still be instructive for the contemporary reader. And the racism in most of these writings gives opportunity to reflect on one´s own questionable attitudes towards local people.

I have excluded travelogues such as Henri Mouhot´s Travels in Siam, Cambodia, Laos, and Annam and the many other accounts of travels in the region that publishers like White Lotus Press and Silkworm have (re-)published, because the focus of my list is accounts of how foreigners deal with their life in an alien country.

Some of these books are well-known classics that are easily available at book shops. Others are lesser known or even obscure works. As the copyright of most of these books has expired, a good number of them can be found at www.gutenberg.org or in more reader-friendly pdf format at www.manybooks.net.

1. Robinson Crusoe, by Daniel Defoe

Interestingly, the book that is often credited as the first realistic novel in the English language is the story of an involuntary expat. James Joyce has called the castaway who spends 28 years on a tropical island near Trinidad “the true prototype of the British colonist.” In a lecture on English literature he delivered in Italy, Joyce argued: “The whole Anglo-Saxon spirit is in Crusoe: the manly independence, the unconscious cruelty, the persistence, the slow yet efficient intelligence, the sexual apathy, the calculating taciturnity.” Especially his relationship with his factotum (or slave?) Friday has struck many readers as highly bigoted, and post-colonial revisions of the book have therefore focused on the Friday-character. Both the novel Vendredi by Michel Tournier and the movie Man Friday by Jack Gold turn Friday into the commendable hero of the story.

2. Heart of Darkness, by Joseph Conrad

Often touted as a ‘stark exposé of Colonialism’, this book is anything but. Joseph Conrad describes the nameless African country (supposedly the Congo) in which the story takes place is such condescending terms that Nigerian novelist Chinua Achebe felt the book “dehumanises” Africans. Then again, Africa only serves as a backdrop for the personal crusade of young English captain Charles Marlow who is looking for the grandiose ivory trader Mr Kurtz, who seems to have started his own cult in the jungle. The book had a night club in Phnom Penh named after it and was the inspiration for Francis Ford Coppola´s movie Apocalypse Now (incidentally, today the name of a popular club in Saigon), which borrowed, among other things, Kurtz´ dying words: “The horror! The horror!”

Conrad returned to similar subject matters one year later in his novel Lord Jim, the story of a ‘White Raja’ in the fictional Malay state of Patusan. The film version of this story, directed by David Lean and starring Peter O´Toole, was partly shot in Angkor Wat in 1965. Disparaging remarks by O`Toole about Cambodia in an interview angered Cambodian head of state Norodom Sihanouk so much that he started to make his own films to show the world the “true” Cambodia, becoming in effect one of the first post-colonial film directors.

3. A Footnote to History: Eight Years of Trouble in Samoa, by Robert Louis Stevenson

An early dropout from Western Civilisation, Stevenson – author of beloved adventure novels such as Treasure Island and Kidnapped – bought a tract of land in Upolu, an island in Samoa, in 1890. He lived there with his family until his death in 1894. In 1892, in an attempt to set the record straight on how the US, the UK and Germany battled over control of Samoa, he published A Footnote to History. In this well-researched book, Stevenson is mostly concerned with the political machinations that led to the indigenous factions losing control over their islands to the colonial powers. At the same time, he delivers some fine descriptions of the lifestyle of the Brits, Americans and Germans who had settled in the Samoan Islands before the Samoan Civil War. His unflattering report led to the recall of two officials.  One year later, he published South Sea Tales, a warm and sympathetic account of the customs and mores of some of the tribes in the South Sea that sets him positively apart from the often narrow-minded and bigoted writers of the colonial age. His story collection Island Nights’ Entertainments is also set in the South Seas.

4. Noa-Noa, by Paul Gauguin

Post-Impressionist painter Paul Gauguin must be the most beloved sex tourist and paedophile of all time. Sick of Western civilisation, he left his family in Denmark to live in the South Seas in 1891. His paintings of native beauties bathing, resting or frolicking in the sun have become fodder for endless postcards, posters, art print and calendars, and his personal relationship to these ladies has been the subject of much speculation. After a stay in Tahiti he wrote the short book Noa-Noa that supposedly describes his experiences after he had left behind “everything that is artificial and conventional”. On occasions, he leaps into prose that seems to come from the diary of a modern-day backpacker: “Between me and the sky there was nothing except the high frail roof of pandanus leaves, where the lizards have their nests. I am far, far away from the prisons that European houses are. A Maori hut does not separate man from life, from space, from the infinite…” Later in the book, he ventures into an endless treatise on the cosmology of Tahiti. Some modern scholars have argued that the book is largely a fantasy, written mostly to sell his paintings.

More saucy stuff is in his Intimate Journals, which his son published after his death. W. Somerset Maugham based his novel The Moon and Sixpence on Gauguin´s life story – which brings us to the most merciless chronicler of the life of Western colonisers in the East…

5. The Casuarina Tree, by W. Somerset Maugham

The dropout, the sexpat, the drunk, the idler – archetypical expat characters that can be found on any given night on Phnom Penh’s riverside – are all assembled in this collection of short stories that Maugham published after an extensive trip to the British colonial holdings in Asia in 1921. His account of the lifestyle of British colonial servants enraged one of them so much that she anonymously published the book Gin And Bitters to denounce Maugham’s works. Maugham added a postscript to later versions of the book to point out the fictional nature of his stories. Yet much of the material for the tales in this book and in its companion piece The Trembling Leave, set in the South Seas, came from conversations that Gerald Haxton, Maugham’s lover and secretary, had during their trips through Asia in hotels, bars and the private homes of British citizens in the colonial service (Maugham himself was apparently too shy to get people to wash their dirty laundry in public). Maugham also published the travelogues The Gentleman in the Parlour and On A Chinese Screen. His short stories are both brutal and highly entertaining.

6. Colonial Cambodia’s ‘Bad Frenchmen’: The rise of French rule and the life of Thomas Caraman, 1840-87, by Gregor Mueller

This book is not a novel, but a PhD thesis – but it’s easily as entertaining as any piece of fiction. Historian Mueller traces the life of the little-known French colon Thomas Caraman, based on documents that he found in the National Archive of Cambodia in Phnom Penh. Caraman’s many failed business ventures in Cambodia would be sufficient material for a movie. Mueller assembles a cast of characters around him that bear a striking resemblance to the many shadowy and lost types that inhabit the guest houses and bars of Phnom Penh today. Mueller had an honour bestowed upon him that only the most relevant works on Cambodia receive: his book is sold by the vendors of pirated books on the riverside alongside bootleg prints of the Lonely Planet.

7. The Royal Way, by André Malraux

It is not entirely clear what Malraux, one of the most shameless con artists in the intellectual history of the 20th century, intended with this semi-autobiographical book. But he does come across as a latter-day offspring of the down-and-out characters Gregor Mueller describes so eloquently in his book on Thomas Caraman. The narrator comes to Indochina to steal sculptures from Bantey Srey temple in Siem Reap to make a fortune, but his expedition goes horribly wrong. Malraux went to court for his attempted theft, but was never put behind bars, where he would have belonged. Instead, he became French Minister of Culture under Charles de Gaulle. Oops.

8. The Sea Wall, by Marguerite Duras

Duras’ autobiographical account of her youth in Indochina is lesser known than her novel The Lover, but it is a better book. Her mother bought a plot of land for farming from the French colonial government in 1930, only to find out that her rice fields were regularly flooded with salty sea water during the rainy season, making all attempts at cultivation useless. Her attempts to build the sea wall that gave the book its title also failed. The tragedy of her mother serves as a backdrop to her own coming-of-age story that includes an affair with a rich Chinese merchant – who might or might not have been a figment of her imagination, and who she milked again for The Lover. French-Cambodian film maker Rithy Panh did a complex movie version of the book in 2009.

9. Burmese Days, by George Orwell

Orwell’s first novel is set in in Katha, Burma, where the writer served in 1926 as a member of the Indian Imperial Police. It describes corruption and imperial bigotry in a society where, “after all, natives were natives – interesting, no doubt, but finally… an inferior people”. John Flory, the protagonist, seems to do little more than drink and to recover from his drinking orgies, and so do the other members of British colonial establishment who gather at the ‘club house’ of the small hamlet in Sagaing. Flory’s downfall is masterminded by the corrupt Burmese official U Po Kyin, who wants to join the British club. The book contains priceless description of life in Katha, but his characters border on caricatures. Well, it was Orwell’s first book, and he did describe the decadence and the waning of colonialism in the British Raj quite perceptively.

10. The Quiet American, by Graham Greene  

Both deeply moving and highly receptive, this book is the fitting finale to an account of colonial literature. Thomas Fowler, a British journalist in his fifties, is an old hand in Indochina who is covering the French war in Vietnam from Saigon. The American spy Alden Pyle is a young idealist, who knows little about the country that he wants to help, but aggressively tries to do so anyway. The two compete for the same Vietnamese woman, Phuong. The book is a monument to the misled ways in which Westerners tried to help Third World countries out of their perceived dilemmas. Greene understood these dynamics so well that his book seems to foreshadow the clueless American attempt to save Vietnam from itself in a war that is internationally known as the Vietnam War, but in Vietnam itself as the American War.

After the end of this war and the other post-colonial conflicts in Asia, Latin America and Africa that followed de-colonisation, the West started to send advisors, development workers and other well-meaning folk to the countries over which they had wreaked so much havoc. These people would be well-advised to read some accounts from the colonial period to understand the historic legacy that they carry on today.

Dr Tilman Baumgärtel has been teaching journalism at the Department of Media and Communication at the Royal University of Phnom Penh for the past three years. He will cease being an expat when he returns to his native Germany in July. 

WHO: The literati
WHAT: Essential reads for expats
WHERE: Local bookshops, gutenberg.org or manybooks.net
WHEN: This very minute
WHY: Feed your head, fellow traveller

 

 

 

Posted on July 12, 2012May 27, 2014Categories FeaturesLeave a comment on “The horror! The horror!”

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