Rice. A bland, four-letter word that does nothing to reveal this Asian staple’s flavour potential. The coconut rice at Irrawaddi Myanmar Restaurant is a perfect example of how much more there can be to this seemingly simple dish.
On first glance, it’s your typical bowl of pristine grains, with a few touches of cashews and dried fruits to pique your interest. But it’s nothing heart-stopping. After all, this is Asia and we’ve all seen enough rice in our lives to completely desensitise us from the starch bowl. So it seemed a bit premature when my expert eating companion proclaimed that this dish was a game-changer.
I shouldn’t have been surprised since rice is fundamental to the Burmese food culture, but somehow I wasn’t expecting such a heavenly experience. To be honest, I didn’t know what to expect. Burmese food doesn’t exactly top the charts in terms of global popularity. From a country that endured some of the worst isolation in recent history it’s justifiable that they focused on human rights issues versus an international marketing plan for their curries. But with the first bite of savoury, perfectly prepared rice that gracefully held the nutty, slightly sweet coconut flavour in each morsel, I found myself thinking that maybe they should begin to.
We went on to try their fish curry, chicken biryani and famous tea leaf salad (lahpet thoke), which all rivaled the rice reaction, and led our waiters to give us sideways glances as we entered into a sustained state of food bliss. The fish curry has to be broken down into a two-part analysis: one being the effortless way the Cambodian snakehead fish fell off the bone and the second being the curry’s exceptional union of salty and sour flavours.
The chicken biryani was a testament to the successful fusion of such a multicultural country and another tip-of-the-hat to the versatility of rice, working as the base and soaking up the bright saffron notes. Though a traditional Indian dish, the Burmese interpretation usually uses fewer seasonings with the result being anything but inferior.
Rounding off the meal, in Burmese fashion, we finished the lahpet thoke and discussed it at length. With its textural elements of crunchy beans and peanuts and its distinctly earthy, tea flavour—offset slightly by the heat of julienned, pickled peppers and shredded ginger and the citrus from a squeeze of lime—we could easily understand why this dish holds such importance to the culture. Though the flavour profile seemed completely foreign at first, noting the unusual main ingredient of fermented tea leaves, we quickly suspended our allegiance to any preconceived rules for preparing a salad and simply enjoyed.
Though we weren’t as taken with a fishy tasting eggplant and a somewhat bland fried snack, we still felt as though we’d found Phnom Penh’s hidden gem of an eatery. Sitting inconspicuously on Street 334, Irrawaddi is an easy miss, but having been in business for eight years they’re obviously not relying on location to garner customers. The owner, Cho Cho, warmly greets every guest, always serving up more than just her country’s cuisine to whoever walks through the door.
There’s something going down in the Funan town of Kampot. Once just the home of rice, fish and durian – never the best combination – Kampot is undergoing a culinary renaissance. Japanese, Italian, French, Spanish, Khmer or simply good food cooked well, Kampot has become a dining destination. It all has the feel of Phnom Penh 10 years ago, when people with a passion for the country, rather than the dollar, looked at what they could do to engage with and live in the Kingdom. Answer: open a restaurant. As a result, many of these businesses are truly family affairs; something that conjures a certain warmth when eating in the town. And because Kampot is a “heads” town, the spirit is strictly layback, unlike like the meth-addled urgency of its bigger southern cousin. Exhausted by the capital’s dining options? Take a culinary road trip with The Advisor as we explore 12 dining opportunities that will make your trip south worthwhile.
Main Course
Mak Srey Keo BBQ – “The local”
Corner 710 & 726
Across the street from Java Bleu is a unexceptional-looking Khmer eatery, which would be easy to miss given all the other options in Kampot. But for a worthwhile trip into local food, MSK is a treat. Popular with Khmers and local expats alike, in the evenings it can be a challenge to find a table (they do a call-up and take-out service for those in a hurry). But getting a table is worth it, as there is a certain Graham Greene charm about the place, which enlivens the dining experience for the Indochine romantic. Options, many of them gloriously misspelt on the menu (“flog,”anyone?) range from the standard (fried rice and noodles) to the exotic (grilled oyster chili and fried beef with ant). But a personal favourite is the whole wok-fried fish with spices. This dish costs $2.50 and with most other items on the menu similarly priced, you should get away with spending $4 for food, drinks and a welcomed tip for the staff. Go for: “The Quiet American” vibe. Ask for: The wok-fried fish with spices.
Café Espresso
Café Espresso – “Coffee Mecca”
Street 731
With the best coffee in the southwest, Café Espresso’s roasted and ground beans emphasise what Kampot is all about – the simple done well. The owners, Gus and Kiara, left Australia three years ago and opened up the café. Since then, Café Espresso has become the coffee destination in town. Its unreconstructed Chinese shop-house/hole-in-the-wall ambiance means that you could be on the Paris Left Bank of yore, but its sensible prices remind you that you’re not. The café offers quality food to go with your coffee – everything from Portuguese chicken wraps to pumpkin loaf. But it’s the sacred bean that will have you coming back again and again. You can even leave with a bag of their house blend, Rumble Fish. Go for: Left Bank ambiance meets Brisbane chic. Ask for: Anything of a coffee persuasion.
Japanese Restaurant – “Yes, that is its name”
River road, near the Old Bridge intersection
The recent explosion of Japanese restaurants in the Kingdom has spread and now Kampot has its own edition offering its take on Nippon cuisine. Owned and operated by a Japanese (Saitama)/French (Lorraine) couple, the food covers a range of Japanese favourites: korokko (potato cakes), karanga (fried chicken), curry, sushi, okonomiyaki and ebi kakiage teishoku (crispy pancakes), while all mains are served with rice, miso soup and pickled vegetables. My Japanese partner, Hiromi, attests to the quality of the restaurant and asks to go there whenever she is in town, so it must be of a certain high quality. Meanwhile, it is reassuring to know that there is now a place in Kampot where you can enjoy an ice cold Asahi or Sapporo. Located near the Old Bridge and overlooking the river, the view isn’t bad, either. Go for: An ice cold Asahi as you look out over the river. Ask for: Okonomiyaki, Osaka style.
Street Bakery
Street Bakery – “Some like it hot”
Street 731 (look for the pile of wood)
So non-descript that it passes many visitors by, over the road from Café Espresso is a Chinese shop-house whose upstairs appears to have been gutted by fire. But no, this is one of Kampot’s best-kept secrets: a traditional Khmer wood-fired bakery. Baguettes fresh out of the oven cost only 1,000 riel and are as scrumptious as they are hot. Purchase one and take it back to your accommodation, cut it open and cover it with butter and jam (you can purchase these from the shops surrounding the Durian circle, the town’s main roundabout). Complement this with a coffee and you have a breakfast that harks back to provincial France. Just make sure you get there before 9am, as the hot bread disappears fast. Go for: A traditional Khmer bakery experience. Ask for: A 1,000 riel hot baguette.
Kampot Pie and Ice Cream Palace
“There’s something about Mary’s” Street 720
Mary Rose, proprietor of “the Palace,” is a shining light and one of those “special people” who make Kampot the kind of town that it is. Self-taught and with help from her family and friends, she bakes all of the Palace’s delights, from apple pies to coconut cookies and a host of goods in between (the name really does say it all). But one thing shines above all else: the Mary Rose BIG breakfast. It may not win any Heart Foundation awards but it will set you up for the day, guaranteed. For the reil you’ll spend, it’s the best fried breakfast this side of the Kingdom. Go for: Mary’s welcome. Ask for: The Mary Rose BIG breakfast.
Java Bleu – “Last chance to eat?”
Corner Street 710 & 726
I stay close to Java Bleu, a restaurant situated in a beautiful French provincial-style building in the heart of Kampot’s colonial district. Each morning around 7am, I can find Jean Claude sorting through the freshly delivered fish that will cover his menu for the day. Fish, cooked with French style and flare, is the focus of Java Bleu’s menu, together with quality wines and desserts. It’s always worth savouring its outstanding dishes in a beautiful corner location – a position as yet unconfirmed for the future. Go for: A possible last chance to sample Java Bleu at its present location. Ask for: The swordfish or the seafood platter.
Rikitikitavi
Rikitikitavi – “Watch the boats”
River road, corner Street 728
Situated on a prime site on Kampot’s riverside, RKT offers a higher end dining experience, but at reasonable prices. With Khmer and Western favourites (amok, lok lak, curries, fish and chips, kebabs, BBQ ribs, vegetarian burritos) RKT covers the food bases. The meals are excellent and the service outstanding: Denise and Dom put a lot of effort into staff training and it shows. The best feature of all, however, is the 2-for-1 cocktail deal between 5-7pm. Tank up on mojitols, Singapore slings, caiparinhas and a host of other mixed drinks and you may well see the rest of your night disappear in a blur. Even better, time your visit around 6pm and watch the departure of Kampot’s fishing fleet as it heads out for its evening trawl. Go for: Quality riverside dining. Ask for: The 2-for-1 cocktails between 5 and 7pm.
The Green House – “An out-of-town experience”
Road to Kampot Zoo
Last decade, Snow’s (or Maxine’s) over the other side of the Tonle Sap River was a Phnom Penh institution (hell, Dengue Fever even recorded live there). Redevelopments along the river put pay to the bar but not to the building, which was taken down, packed up and resurrected by Marco and Dave on the banks of the Kampot River (one kilometre before the Kampot Zoo, 700 metres beyond the sign-posted turn-off).
Now sans Dave and with some significant improvements, including a recently enlarged outside deck and a new menu, the Green House has raised the bar for West Bank fare. In particular, its take on the regions favourite native – pepper – provides a unique twist to its various dishes (swordfish fillet with red Kampot pepper butter and lime sauce, for example). But it is the restaurant’s location on the river, with its laidback charm that truly sets it apart from the rest. Just make sure to bring some mosquito spray and cover up – you come to dine, not be dined on, and those guys can be feisty once the sun disappears. Go for: Pepper menu twists, twilight and sunset. Ask for: Red Kampot pepper and chocolate cookies.
Epic Arts
Epic Arts – “Soul Food”
Street 724
You notice it when you enter: a quiet and peaceful atmosphere, which transfers across to the food and coffee. This is not surprising – Epic Arts provides support to people with disabilities, including the hard of hearing, many of whom prepare and serve the restaurant’s food and drinks. Open early and closing at 5pm, Epic Arts is dedicated to breakfast and lunch options, including muesli, toasted bread, baguettes and paninis. Meanwhile, for those requiring a caffeine fix, Epic Arts does an excellent plunger coffee, as well as a range of shakes and smoothies. It also has a nice line of baked goods that you can take away.
Epic Arts is about more than food and drink, however, and forms part of a comprehensive programme empowering the less able through music, drawing and vocational training. Venture upstairs and you can check out some of this work. Go for: Good intentions. Ask for: Cheese and tomato panini and a plunger coffee.
Divino – “Family Values”
Street 724
Kampot attracts many people to its riverside location. That it has attracted Marco and Alessia, a couple devoted to reproducing the food of their Southern Italy homeland means that the town now plays host to one of the finer Italian restaurants in the Kingdom. It is less a “hole in the wall” and more a “table in the front room” establishment; the bambino sleeps on the nearby chair, the staff run their hands through her hair, all adding to the charm and authenticity of Divino’s family spirit. From pastas to risottos, to pizza and gnocchi and wonderfully baked homemade bread, there is sure to be something that will satisfy your Italian food urge. Moreover, many of the ingredients are prepared on site, meaning that the “from the packet” approach that passes for Italian food at some establishments is avoided. Also check out the wine sourced from the family vineyard back home in Italy – it offers the perfect complement to your main course. Go for: Family charm. Ask for: The five cheeses gnocchi.
Kampot Cooker
Kampot Cooker – “Going to the dogs”
Corner 710 & 726
The Kampot Cooker is owned and operated by Johnny and Yan and offers a distinct take on street-side food. Johnny has brought years of cooking experience from the US and France to create a menu range that, although not extensive, is exciting and innovative. Yan and her family, meanwhile, ensure that your order and other needs are well taken care of.
Menu-wise, one favourite is the Kampot Dog, comprising ground, fresh pork, Kampot red pepper, lemongrass, shallots, a slaw of green mango, papaya and cabbage, served in a fresh baguette and coated in homemade Baba sauce. It may not reduce the town’s irritant canine population but it is a welcome addition to Kampot’s wider menu options. Other choices include Johnny’s special fried rice and his grilled bratwurst with onions and salad in a fresh baguette. On the side of virtue, meanwhile, every meal sold at KC provides support for feeding two children in Phnom Penh through Buckhunger, a local NGO established by Johnny to help feed hungry street families in the capital (www.buckhunger.com). Go for: Simple and innovative food. Ask for: A Kampot Dog or the grilled bratwurst.
Street Food – “It’s not Vietnam”
Riverside, Street 700 & Street 730
Cambodia has never been able to carry off the same street food appeal of Thailand and Vietnam. That said, Kampot offers as good a place as any to try the Khmer take on streetside fare. The riverside is a good place to locate corn (ensure you get the steamed yellow variety and not the barbequed white kind), spam in a baguette and sugarcane juice. Street 700 is the home of the deadly sweet fruit shakes (look out for the long lines of tables with the display fruit and blenders). Beyond Rikitikitavi, on Street 730, you can find numerous fried skewer sellers who, for 1000 riel, offer crabmeat, tofu and ground meatballs, which they will fry in front of you and serve with leafy greens. Seating is offered on tiny outdoor plastic chairs and tables. Go for: Inexpensive and local. Ask for: A crabmeat skewer with a cold Cambodia (the fresh corn isn’t bad either). Hot baguettes, great value big breakfasts, roasted house blend coffee, fresh gnocchi, riverside cocktails, sushi and more: Kampot is in the middle of an epicurean explosion. Even as we speak, new culinary establishments are being built at an exponential rate, so it’s well worth the trip to check out what more the former “sleepy city” will have to offer by that stage. Yet, while things move quickly and establishments come and go with an alarming regularity in the Kingdom, there is a reassuring solidity about the Kampot food scene, particularly in its ubiquitous home-cooked style and quality.
To the Italian pizza slices and voguish swill rooms of Street 308, Bistrot Bassac brings a kitchenful of French culinary simplicity. A man from Toulouse runs the restaurant, and his menu mirrors the influences of an upbringing in Southern France. The specialty is steak tartar, and heavy Moroccan spices and North African flavours permeate the menu. The sundeck upstairs offers a quiet escape from the bustling street. The wine is French. The desserts are chalkboard fresh. And the cosy dinner room provides a dependable antechamber to retreat from the boozy street crowds. Bistrot Bassac, #8 Street 308.
THU 30 | Battambang-born artist Yim Maline presents her new sculpture exhibition, Having a Hole or Empty Space Inside, in which she explores absences and the “façade of development.” Large and small-scale graphite drawings cover the walls, while a series of nine large, charcoal sculptures are dotted around the floor, each variations on a theme. The bleak-looking forms seem dead upon first sight, and yet upon closer examination, a thread of life – leaf or vine – weaves in and around the forms, giving them a certain sense of natural beauty, and the hope of regeneration. Maline’s abstract works are always thought-provoking, touching on various socio-political and personal themes, and leave you musing for days to come.
WHO: Yim Maline
WHAT: Drawing and sculpture exhibition
WHERE: Sa Sa Bassac, #182E, Sothearos Blvd.
WHEN: 6pm, April 30
WHY: Satisfy both your mind and your artistic sensibilities
THU 30 | Remissa Mak is a prize-winning photographic heavyweight, often regarded as a pioneer by others of his generation and in his field. If you’ve seen his work, you’ll understand why. Particularly renowned for his fine art photography, he captures the beauty of nature and his surrounds, while sending a message of appreciation and respect for his captured objects. His latest work, Water is Life, comprises a collection of 18 photographs of Cambodian rivers, lakes and canals, providing a take on these worlds from the perspective of marine life. In this series, Remissa highlights the importance of this ultimate life source for all living creatures – a timely reminder that its abundance is not guaranteed, nor to be taken for granted.
WHO: Remissa Mak
WHAT: Photographic Exhibition
WHERE: The Plantation, #28 St. 184
WHEN: 6pm, April 30
WHY: Consider one of the world’s most pressing issues through a positive, aesthetically beautiful method
FRI 01 | It’s May Day and Show Box is ready and rearing to embrace it, transforming their upstairs gallery/performance space into a high-octane mini-festival of live bands ranging from expats to exports. Panic Jerks are known for playing at packed out Show Box open mics, while the Kampot Playboys have become one of the most in-demand interstate bands in the Kingdom, thanks to their affecting fusion of Western and traditional rock. Ziad Samman (who some will recognise from Tango & Snatch and Two Shots And A Chase) will fly all the way from his new home in Hong Kong to showcase his skill in his former city of residence, while Red Tin Dragon will round out what is likely to be a night of fun, sweat and loud, unapologetic rock.
WHO: Local, interstate and international bands
WHAT: Live rock mini-festival
WHERE: Show Box, #11 St. 330
WHEN: 7:30pm, May 1
WHY: May Day: typically marks a change of season, rebellion, and a load of dancing. Perfect
FRI 01 | Who could imagine it’s been two whole years since Dusk Til Dawn began serving up quality electronic music and all-night parties to restless drinkers and dancers? Believe it or not, they’ll be celebrating their 2nd birthday this Friday in the best way they know: a two-night massive house, reggae, DnB, hip hop and techno-infused dance party with free rum punch and bbq from 6:30pm, plus a 40 Thieves apparel pop-up shop for those double-night stragglers who forget to bring a change of clothes for Sunday morning. The first night will be infused by reggae, soul and funk from the 40 Thieves Sound System, while house DJs will spin underground tunes until the wee hours of the morn. Come celebrate the good times had and plenty more to come with these much loved entertainment purveyors.
WHO: Anyone who appreciates a good old-fashioned two-night party
WHAT: Dusk Til Dawn 2nd Birthday Party
WHERE: Dusk Til Dawn, #46-48 St. 172
WHEN: 9pm, May 1 & 2
WHY: Probably the messiest, most entertaining 2nd birthday party you’ll ever attend
SUN 3 | Think Sunday morning, think… World Champion boxing match? Sure, why not! Particularly given that this match is between eight-division world champion Manny Pacquiao and five-division world champion Floyd Mayweather Jr, this is one way to kick-start your brain and enliven the senses. Even if you aren’t super familiar with boxing, this will be a good intro to a sport which does, in fact, involve a lot more than just swinging punches at the other guy. For those who are fans already, you won’t need to be told that this is bound to be one momentous match in boxing history.
WHO: World champion boxers
WHAT: Mayweather vs. Pacquiao boxing match
WHERE: Score Bar, #5 St. 282
WHEN: 8am, May 3
WHY: A wholesome Sunday morning outing for the whole family
WED 06 | Why is that when we try to replicate that seemingly simple combo of gin, tonic water, ice and lime in our own humble kitchen, it’s never quite the same as it is at our favourite bars? You can blame it on black market gin or dodgy ice as much as you like – the truth is, you probably just aren’t all that good at it. Rectifying the problem is as simple as attending the Perfect Gin and Tonic Workshop hosted by London bar owner and gin aficionado Paul Matthew. Delving into the science behind the cocktail, guests will not only learn how temperature, strength and other seemingly minor details affect the overall flavour, they’ll also sample more than 10 gins with a range of tonics, play with different garnishes and bitters, and create their own personalised G&T concoction. At $30 per head, which includes four drinks and free canapés, this is without a doubt the best way to get simultaneously educated and tipsy.
WHO: G&T enthusiasts
WHAT: Gin & Tonic workshop
WHERE: The FCC, #363 Sisowath Quay
WHEN: 7:30pm, May 6
WHY: Great excuse to go drinking with an ostensibly cultured intention
WED 06 | Just in time for the heat wave, The History of Things to Come is back to provide us all with functional and – equally elusive – fashionable frocks to see us through to the slightly less sweltering season. For those unacquainted with the fair, this is a rare opportunity to nab quality vintage clothing, including imported ‘40s daywear, ‘50s and ‘60s cocktail dresses, ‘70s hippie getup, ‘80s dynasty evening wear and jumpsuits so cute you’ll want to buy one just to bounce around the house in. Despite the fact that all items are older than 20 years (finally, some genuine vintage!), they’ve all been handpicked for their impeccable condition, not to mention their timeless cut and light, airy material. So, if thick nylon day-glo gowns aren’t your style, we suggest you get along with empty bags in tow for your opportunity to pick up some threads to last you through more than just the sticky season. You have until 8pm Sunday 10 to stock up. But, of course, as with any specialised clothing fair, you’re going to want to get in early to nab the best of the bunch. On your marks, ladies…
WHO: Vintage fashionistas
WHAT: Imported vintage fashion clothing fair
WHERE: #21 St. 306, BKK1 (next to Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf)
WHEN: 8am, May 6-8pm, Sun 10
WHY: Survive the hot season with clothing that’s breezy, not sleazy
