More of Moi Teit

SAT 27 | Formed in 2013, Moi Tiet is back with a fresh set of faces. Singer-songwriter Scott Bywater exercises his extensive musical talents on vocals, harmonica and guitar alongside Andre Swart (Grass Snake Union, Kheltica) on bass, Chuck Villar (Musikero) and Leonard Reyes (Vibratone) on guitar and Jedil Robelo (Bacano) on drums. Each player brings their own flavour to the table, while forming a tight, original sound as a whole. Expect a dynamic range of tunes, from straight up rock ‘n’ roll, to funky blues and soul, to atmospheric and folk.

WHO: Moi Tiet
WHAT: Live blues/funk/rock
WHERE: Sharky Bar, #126 St. 130
WHEN: 9pm, June 27
WHY: They’re covering pretty much every genre that exists. There’s bound to be something in there for you.

Catch the Vanishing Act

TUE 30 | Some of you may remember reading an excerpt we ran a few weeks back from Ryun Patterson and Rick Valenzuela’s latest book. Vanishing Act is a glimpse in the world of Cambodia’s magic, featuring interviews with traditional soothsayers and spirit mediums around the Kingdom. On Tuesday, Meta House will host an exhibition of portraits and stories from the book. You can also check out a demo of the e-book in action on iPads which will be circulating the room on the night, alongside limited hardcopies available for sale. Stick around until 8pm for a Q&A with the lads, who no doubt have a few interesting tales up their sleeves.

WHO: Ryun Patterson & Rick Valenzuela
WHAT: Photo and story exhibition
WHRE: Meta House, #37 Sothearos Blvd.
WHEN: 7pm, June 30
WHY: These soothsayers do some freaky cool shit. It’s well worth a look.

Guilty Pleasures

Although I enjoy a vigorous and varied relationship with Onan’s sundry joys, it’s not often I find myself in a mid-river island village at 9 o’clock on a Sunday morning with my hands down my pants slapping my own arse. In my cosmopolitan Downunder home town you wouldn’t bat an eyelid at someone having a quick public fiddle because in my hipster ‘hood just about everything counts as performance art. There, God’s Holiday starts just after 11, when post-archery-class manbuns in toe socks descend on the local cafeteria for a Fernet infused fair-trade truffle muffin and bourbon chaser. Red-lipsticked jades languidly pluck their ukuleles and sip hand-milked flamingo wee. None of them would be caught dead pre- or post-elevenses in fluoro pink Russian Market sports bra and Target leggings and sweating like two rats fucking in a sock. At least, not outside the CBD. Certainly not beyond arm’s reach of a spinning wheel, anyway. I would, though, and I was –  this time on yet another ill-conceived tramp to discover more of CharmingVille’s, er, charms, and to trim a few inches off the dewlaps at the same time. I also thought a bipedal zip round an unsung landmark might see off the stubborn melancholia left lingering after Bunster hobbled off life’s slippery twig. These were the noble brass rings dangling from my Sunday morning horizon. A cheeky outdoor spank wasn’t on the radar.

Unbeknownst to me, and easily missed this past predawn black Sabbath as I donned my ragtag sports kit, tiny red ants had already stowed themselves in the seams of my stretchy trews and underthings. I don’t know what it’s like over at your place right now but thanks to El Nino, Monsanto and of course the Vietnamese we have hordes of at least 5 kinds of ants swarming over our stuff here at Marital HQ. Little back ones, big black ones, and three sizes of red have invaded our nooks and got all up in our crannies. Just the other midnight, with the mercury zooming, I awoke to the smallest of our cohabitant formicadae thrusting their hot stings into the only place in this whole damn overcooked city where the sun don’t shine. Unable to suffer properly unless someone is watching, I woke the Hubster from his post pub torpor and made him help me look for the bug spray. He was tits on a bull, stumbling round the apartment and scaring our Bunster replacement pet, Ah Dop Dollar, a microscopic rabbit purchased for a furry ten smackers down 63. More on that next time. Eventually I made do with stick-on mosquito patches I found in that kitchen drawer that everyone has (used phone scratchies, keys for something, rubberbands, a lighter) and a can of imported salon-quality lacquer. They probably died in agony, but on the plus-side I have hair-sprayed ants in various poses, like a tiny Tuilleries sculpture garden, all along the headboard as we speak. Neat.

Anyway. A group of total strangers – all women except for one hungover bloke chastised by someone other than his wife for checking his phone when “we should all be looking at the view” – set out in a white mini van to Koh Anlong Chen. It’s south of town, and apparently 6 kilometres round. Six kilometres, 600 kilometres. It’s all the same to me when it’s hotter than Satan’s filthy maw and I’m dawdling behind the pack at the halfway mark with 10 kilos of camera strung round my neck like a sack of expensive Japanese potatoes. Ahead of me a younger, lither, barely damp NGO person and her intense older she-mate traded burpees and tips on capacity building for rural thrivelihoods. I’d given up politely saying “arun suorsdey” to every man and his dog and stumbled, sweat blind to the bucolic, riverine hamlet around me, with each jagged breath cursing those smug bitches in their Lulu goddamn Lemons. As I lent on a pole and gagged on my lungs, I felt all eyes in the village glued to my expiring physique. Local tykes gambolled at my feet, in awe of my vast, heaving discomfort. “Hello Lady, why are you?.” I had no idea, and frankly I didn’t fucking care.

Maybe it was the stench of deep fried plumpster wafting through the weft of my lycra-rich sportswear – or maybe it was instant karma for dissing the dogooders – but suddenly my pants were alive with my trapped ant cargo. They jabbed my arse with fiery stings and not in the way I usually like. I bitch-smacked myself up until there was nothing for it but to plunge my sweaty palms down into me nethers and grab those little fuckers one by one.
A young deaf lad with a wonky eye took pity on me and dinked me all the way back to the ferry on what looked to be an original 1976 Malvern Star Dragster. It had a Winnie the Pooh squeaky toy wired to the handlebars and we coasted all the way to the ferry landing. If I’d Sharpie’d on a Hitler moustache and donned a floral muumuu on my own CTN variety show the village people couldn’t have been more thrilled.

Portrait of a wasteland playground

Wandering through the art-filled streets of the Boeung Kak precinct, it’s hard to ignore the immense, artificial sand plain lumped dissonantly in the backdrop. Awkward-looking, but ominous in its meaning, the barren stretch of land is a result of the 99-year lease that was signed to private development company Shukaku Inc. in 2007. The lake proceeded to be filled with sand in the following year, resulting in heavy flooding of the area and the eviction of thousands of locals from their homes. Yet, in the shadow of a recently erected skyscraper in a nearby neighbourhood, children “lucky” enough to remain in their hometown today play happily in the giant sandpit, while older siblings motocross in the dunes.

Four photographers capture the incongruous landscape and the impact of development on the Boeung Kak community and its social dynamics in a new photographic exhibition at Bophana Centre. Three Lives of Boeung Kak illustrates three key aspects of the area’s ongoing transmutation, as seen through the lenses of photographers Julie Bardeche, Vincent de Wilde, Elinor Fry and De Shreng Lim.

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An incongruous landscape

Community efforts have proven somewhat efficacious in regenerating the neighbourhood after severe water damage.  Organised cleanups and an injection of art and regular music events continue to draw visitors back to the once lively backpacker area. However, the precinct hasn’t entirely shaken the ghetto vibe it adopted since the filling of the lake and mass exodus of the community, with many locals still clearly living an impoverished existence in its wake.

French-born Bardeche explains, “The ‘three lives’ title represents the three angles through which the four of us look at the lake. It’s also evocative of the past, present and future times – I wanted to create a linkage between visual and time dimensions. Vincent’s photos mostly feature life along the railway, to the Southwest of Boeung Kak: a past or soon-to-disappear aspect of that part of town. De’s focus is mainly on the present life on the lake and the sand dunes.”

Bardeche and Fry’s third angle initially intended to focus purely on the street art that has emerged in Boeung Kak in the last few years. As they spent more time in the area, however, she found herself becoming immersed in the lives that lay beyond the graffiti-sprayed facades.

“My photos were first focused on the interactions between the street art and the inhabitants. Nevertheless, as I walked around the lake, I became increasingly interested in life in the sand dunes,” Bardeche says. “In particular, I was struck by the contrasts between the simplicity of the residents’ lifestyle and the growth of high-rise buildings in the background, which foreshadow the future of the area.”

Consequently, the photographers all highlight the stark contrast between the life of the lake residents and the rapid development of the nearby town to some degree within their work. Many of Bardeche’s photos centre around children who play in the sand with smiling faces and torn clothes – cranes and skyscrapers all the while encroaching on the horizon.

Lim encapsulates this incongruity further as he describes his interactions with the young men featured in his Boys of Boeung Kak series.

“I asked them about what it was like living there, and what it was like before the lake was filled. Many were unable to answer. Perhaps they had forgotten what it was like living next to the lake. Perhaps they had become used to the barren landscape that was now their playground,” Lim says. “But some were able to conjure up thoughts and memories of better times. One boy, Panet, age 16, said to me, rather despondently, ‘I don’t have money, because of empty water.’”

And yet, 20-year-old Yong Savon answered, pointing toward the cranes in the distance, that he wanted to be an engineer. “I thought it was poignant that [he] aspired to be that generation that would build Cambodia,” Lim says.

Poignant, perhaps. Though, if anything, the response seems unexpected – if not completely disparate – to that which you’d expect from an individual whose livelihood has been severely threatened by the implementation of such development practices.

Bernache, meanwhile, spent her time predominantly among the older residents who were relocated within the area. Most are parents of the children who now play in the very foundations of their family’s enduring despair. Old enough to remember the gritty details of the relocation process, the outlook of these individuals is justifiably more harrowed than that of their kin.

“They lost their business and struggle to earn a living,” Bernache says. “They feel injustice, sadness and worry about their future and that of their children and grandchildren. “I believe that they mostly have not been able to adapt to their new situation yet. Some initiatives seek to provide the residents with alternatives – education, housing, legal counselling, jobs and ideas. But it is a slow process and it’s also dependent on how the constructions will evolve.”

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United by art

Bernache’s time spent shooting the activity and interactions of the sand dune kids and their parents has paradoxically allowed her greater insight into the significant role played by her initial subject of interest.

“Street art has become an increasingly important part of the life around the lake, as benevolent artists seek to revive the area and attract attention to the neighbourhood,” she says. “This raises funds for local NGOs, which in turn seeks to secure the future of the lakeside area.”

While Bernache does not speak for all locals in the area, many have demonstrated their appreciation of the economic injection and increased traffic afforded by ongoing creative activities. Bernache adds that increased involvement of local artists could add further value to the initiatives.

“I believe in this initiative, especially since it has involved quite a few Khmer artists already. It has certainly attracted positive attention to the lakeside area and the issues faced by its residents,” she says. “Quite a few people did not know about it until they came to an urban art event there. I just hope that more Khmer people will get involved, as the crowd is mostly international. This is, I suppose, just a matter of time and capacity building.”

Simone Art Bistrot is an exemplary model reflecting the growing efforts to regenerate the area through tasteful street art and inclusive music and art events. French owners Ludi Labille and Marj Arnaud were key players in the clean-up efforts following the initial major floods, while their bistro-gallery has earned its crust as a creative mecca both within the neighbourhood and beyond.

Both Lubille and Arnaud have already noticed a rise in local artists who are involved in the beautification of the walls surrounding Simone Art, as well as increased participation in their events. The recent Art in Solidarity festival, designed to unite the community through positive and creative action, saw a mix of local and international artists bearing spray cans and sharing original ideas.

“Solidarity is necessary for us to evolve as a community,” Labille says. “We are collaborating with many different artists and supporters who share this vision and we have plans for future collaborations that will help develop the community and encourage art. It’s about developing art and being human. If we come together we can do great things.”

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Three Lives photographer de Wilde echoes the significance of solidarity in his photographs of life by the railway.

“With my photographs, I want to show those glimpses of life and positivity beyond the appalling poorness of this community and the changes occasioned by the filling of the lake nearby,” he says. “Against all odds, for those who remained along the railway, there is somehow a quality of life there, likely due to solidarity, unity and intense social life, like in some Cambodian rural areas.”

De Wilde’s photos focus on maintaining compassion, hope and optimism in times of intense turmoil.

“If viewers look at the community living along the railway with more humanism, empathy and positiveness, I would be happy,” he says. “My photos aim at being both aesthetic and positive. I dislike ‘miserabilism’ and prefer reflecting reasons of hope even in the most sordid conditions.”

While Bernache shares this view, she makes it clear that this should not detract from the grave reality reflected through her series.

“I hope that [viewers] will get a feel of the uncertainties surrounding the future of this area, highlighted by the flaky and ephemeral happiness of the activities and art depicted in the photos,” she says.

Three Lives of Boeung Kak opens 6:30pm, Friday June 19 at Bophana Centre, #64 St. 200.

Alt biz

Impact Hub, the new co-working space on the top level of Joma on Norodom, is kind of a group hang-out spot where computer- and business-savvy movers and shakers percolate ideas. The slogan is “Where change goes to work,” and the place offers daily and monthly plans for desk space, conference rooms and Wifi in a typical co-working, shared-space environment. Joma is just downstairs with a pipeline of caffeine on tap. Located in the top floor of Joma, Norodom at St. 294.

Art revisited

THU 18 | Phare Ponleu Selpak compares its upcoming group exhibition to a family album. Unlike poring through embarrassing photos with aging relatives, however, this exhibition is full of bright artworks that reflect the ongoing, exciting achievements of the PPS family to date. This family album is intended to be uplifting and cathartic, celebrating paintings and other art forms by the team. PPS also consider this exhibition as a “teaser” for some exciting plans set to take place in September. Stay tuned.

WHO: Phare Ponleu Selpak artists
WHAT: Group art exhibition
WHERE: Romeet Gallery, #34E1 St. 178
WHEN: 6pm, June 18
WHY: All the love of a family album, minus the cringe factor.

Three lives at Boeung Kak

FRI 19 | Four photographers. Three photo series. Three takes on life in the Boeung Kak area. The precinct’s iconic lake was filled in 2010 to become what is now a vast sandpit in which children play and motocross. The lake-filling also catalysed the mass evacuation of thousands of residents from their homes. The three photo series focus on the activities and daily life of the remaining families after the transformation of the lake: on the railway, in the sand dunes and on the walls of the neighbourhood in its street art manifestation. Read more about the stories behind the exhibition on page 6.

WHO: Julie Bardeche, Vincent de Wilde, Elinor Fry & De Sheng Lim
WHAT: Photo exhibition
WHERE: Bophana Centre, #64 St. 200
WHEN: 6:30pm, June 19
WHY: A look beyond the colourful walls of Boeung Kak.

Juneteenth shindig

FRI 19 | For all us non-Americans, Juneteenth – aka Juneteenth Independence Day, Freedom Day or Emancipation Day – is a holiday in the States that celebrates the abolition of slavery in Texas and throughout the South since 1865. In more recent news, last month blues legend B.B. King died, and we’re all pretty bummed about it. Since we wanted in on the Juneteenth fun, and we all loved the King of Blues, The Advisor crew meshed two celebrations together to commemorate freedom, blues and partying. Bring your pretty faces to The Room for a night of non-stop blues, drinking and socialising with the best of ‘em.

WHO: Blues lovers
WHAT: Juneteenth Celebration & B.B. King Memorial
WHERE: The Room, #10, St. 246
WHEN: 7pm, June 19
WHY: Because we don’t already have enough holidays to celebrate.