The future of the White Building

The battle for the White Building began in September when the governor of Phnom Penh declared the structure unsafe and called for its demolition. Lu Ban Hap, a protégé of Vann Molyvann, designed the building in 1963 and christened it the Bassac Municipal Apartments. The building stands as a high mark in Cambodian architecture, and along with other buildings and monuments of the era, has come to represent the remarkable transformation the country underwent during the 1950s and 1960s under King Norodom Sihanouk. Yet like so much of the city’s Golden Era architecture, the White Building now faces the threat of development. As pressure grows between building residents, city leaders and commercial developers, the future of Lu Ban Hap’s apartments has never been more uncertain. Pen Sereypagna, an architect and urbanist, has spent considerable time in recent years uncovering the stories hidden behind the dilapidated building’s walls. His research will serve as the starting point for a series of conversations this weekend, with group discussions hosted by an international panel of architects, artists and academics. What they hope to achieve remains uncertain, but there is no underestimating the height of the stakes for those involved.

WHO: Artists, researchers, citizens
WHAT: Time, Space, Voice: Phnom Penh’s White Building
WHERE: Bophana Centre, #64 Street 200
WHEN: January 9, 12:30-5:30pm, January 10, 9:30am-1pm
WHY: Intelligence is sexy; activism is sexier

Sing it, sister

Open mic is the Western equivalent of Asian karaoke: singing in public, badly and often times drunkenly. And Slur Bar provides one of the best set-ups in town. The high-end sound system tends to draw quality musicians, too. So you’re likely to be singing and jamming with some of the city’s best. Join in. You could do a lot worse for a Monday.

WHO: Bathroom singers and rock star dreamers
WHAT: Open mic
WHERE: Slur Bar, #28 Street 172
WHEN: January 12
WHY: The acoustics are way better than your shower

Rockefeller Report

Over the last week, everyone here at Rockefeller Without Borders made it a top priority to assemble our “2015 best of and predictions for” list.  As we argued well into the night sipping Lekna’s heavy-on-the-rum eggnog, something strange happened: unanimous dislike of the words “best” and “prediction.”  Ricardo said that he’d resign his post as Mayor of Pailin (who knew?) if he was forced to be associated with predictions. And our field officer, who shall remain nameless, said making predictions (specially if they came true) might increase her chances of being labeled a sorcerer in Kampong Thom. We certainly don’t want that. With the hours ticking away till deadline, a mystical hallelujah moment appeared on our office whiteboard like some sort of Disney Fantasia apparition: “Visions”. Quickly checking “Sure Signs of Sorcery,” the  reference book for all things sorcery suspicious, found nothing on “visions” – only “visionary”  (which explains why The Simpsons are banned in Kampong Thom). The path is clear, dear reader, for this is our Rockefeller Without Borders visions for 2015 list.

The year 2015 will be the annum of trendy gauze facemasks. In 2014 there were more people wearing them and more refusing to take them off – and it had nothing to do with Ebola. People just like wearing surgical masks. Our vision is that a giant pharmaceutical company will partner with Dolce & Gabbana to design the world’s chicest gauze facemasks right here in Cambodia. No longer will it be considered impolite to not remove your mask when speaking to someone. In fact, it will be considered terribly un-cool if you do.

Garbage collectors become their own ministry: The Ministry of Stuff that Should be Thrown Away.  Residents of Phnom Penh suffered through two garbage strikes in 2014.  Piles of refuse stinking up neighbourhoods for days. Those were nervous times. When you toss garbage you want that stuff out of sight, out of mind – and quickly. The garbage collectors know that, and our vision tells us they have a plan: enter politics and tell the populace what they really should throw away.  Your secrets are safe with us people. Throw them into the street pile and we’ll collect them at 2am. Finally we will have complete transparency in this country. No more secrets and hidden agendas. All of that will be thrown away thanks to our visionary – oops, sorry – friends at The Ministry of Stuff that Should be Thrown Away. A responsible government ministry to lead us into happier, less complicated times – everything in its rightful thrown-away place.

In 2015 NAM finally becomes an official district. Anyone who gave Google-less directions in 2014 will know how frustratingly tedious it is to say Near Aeon Mall.  No more. The vision is officially NAM.  We understand how unappreciated the Russian Embassy now feels with this mall in its midst. They used to be the centre of the Sothearos universe: it’s near the Russian Embassy. No more. Not only is there something better in town (bowling!), we also have a great acronym that, thanks to the Rockefeller Without Borders vision, will be easy for anyone to say: NAM. Never attempt near the Russian Embassy as an acronym. Too close to NRA, which will only make people suspicious you are carrying a handgun.  NAM vs. NRE. The victor is obvious. The vision gets grander with the March opening of another Japanese-funded project, this one even better than bowling: Cambodia’s first cable-supported suspension bridge over the Mekong into Vietnam. The timing is perfect: NAM will honour ’Nam – and end the embassy marches and flag burnings in 2015.

And finally, anyone who enjoys shopping at the very popular 2500 riel stores – I love the NAM location – should not be surprised when they begin selling advice at that same great everything-for-2500 price. Taking the vision further, we see a partnership with the Ministry of Stuff that Should be Thrown Away; teams to help you toss. Not only will you be able to get great advice, you can also pick up a really cool Dolce & Gabbana facemask, all for just 5,000 riel (or 75 rubles – and rising).

With that, everyone here at Rockefeller Without Borders wishes you happy visions in 2015 – specially if you live in Kampong Thom.

Flash crash

The Sla Boutique Hostel must look like heaven after days spent traveling on mini-buses and motos. Dorm rooms start at a mere $8. The sheets are starch-white, the kitchen dust-free, the low-back bar stools comfortable (and the mojitos just $1.5). The hostel caters to young travelers, but old hands will recognize the value. The place feels like home, with a shared kitchen for cooking and a big dining table for communal eating`. It’s the kind of place to turn strangers into friends and conversations into memories. Private rooms are available, too. Sla Boutique Hostel, #15 Street 174.

Guilty Pleasures

Marital HQ is testament to the magnetic power of tat. I’m genetically doomed to pick and hoard thanks to packrat parents who were upcycling and rejigging and making windchimes out of cutlery long before there was medication and reality shows for that kind of thing. Back when I was a mere gosling, they thought nothing of wading the poisonous Torrens River mudflats to salvage a leaf-sprung Ripper-era perambulator when, as part of a notorious serial killer investigation, the council conveniently drained our half-arsed waterway. I can’t imagine what villainy brought the buggy to rest in that noxious mire – one prays without a bawling tot inside – but gussied up it became a fancy hallway table where they still keep a brace of souvenir teaspoons, a selection of Matchbox emergency vehicles and possibly the world’s last faux woodgrain answerphone.

The folks were starving art teachers, most likely because they spent all their pennies on worthless gimcrack and the entrance fee to the tip every weekend. They winnowed beaches for seaglass, curated a sprawling collection of war-era surgical instruments, and wallpapered our whole house with the front covers of 750 Time magazines. During the Cold War, I learned about Vietnam and Watergate over Vegemite sandwiches in our red-quared dining room.

My canny olds weren’t above putting us offspring to good use when they needed extra rummaging time. I was the angelic stool pigeon with the wheaten curls who glamoured the formidable junkyard matron while they poked after-hours for bootscrapers and biscuit tins and “interesting” whisks. One man’s crap is another man’s upcycled wet bar with sugar muzzler and swizzle-stick hutch after all.

Which explains the life-size polystyrene bear head, cat ear muffs, the statue of Chairman Mao waving at a plastic tomato and a wind-up elk, all of whom reside on my BodeSide kitschen shelf. And I’m an equal-opportunity crap collector, so you don’t have to be a glamorous minke foreskin or an exotic pirate leg to get a guernsey on my mantelpiece. I have plenty guernsies. Ditto socks. There’s swarms of them nesting in my armoire, still in packets. If anybody wants any, give me a bell. Some cat T-shirts from Olympic that never fit me and never will. Souvenir mugs? I’m up to my chopstick collection in them. I got sneakers coming out me arse.

So it’s all very odd that I’ve started to question my stuff. Until recently the thought of the National Highway 1 salvage yards made the hairs stand up on my neck. There was almost nothing better than breezing across the river at Chbar Ampoev with a wallet full of Washingtons, a fresh pair of orthotics in my scavenging sneakers and a handy packet of post-ferret moist towelettes. Or so I believed.

Perhaps the years of CharmingVille’s passing monkery have osmotically, ascetically entered the op shop of my id. Maybe it’s the weather that makes you want to get nekkid on your insides as well as your outsides. Whatever new broom I’ve unconsciously brushed up against, the light bulb has clicked on in my slightly musty attic, and boy is it chockers up there.

Even before Santa had a chance to offload his superfluous bounty down my metaphorical chimney this tropical Yule, I felt the need to unstuff, and decided 2015 will be the year I ‘live simple’. In my first act of metaphysical declutteration, I resisted the urge to embellish those two words with a cod-clever full stop in between, artfully design them into a faux handwritten motto board, and then post it on Pinterest. Instead, I went down the Panda Mart for some big black garbage bags.

Poor Hubster. My arbitrary and zealous divestment of 20 things per day has caught him off guard. Yesterday he went looking for 1) His acrylic beetle key-ring, 2) his photo with waxwork Obama and 3) an out-of-date packet of cauliflower seeds from Kew Gardens three years ago. It didn’t go well.

Just today, even before the chicken-in-the-egg man started his trawl up our sleepy street this bright am, I was arse-up fossicking in our sideboard and exorcising all its dusty constituents like a woman possessed: three uncracked Khmer-English Dictionaries, six years’ worth of Door 2 Doors, eight strings of those really uncomfortable earphones, an inexplicable golf ball, and the Bunster-bit remains of a 2007 Ikea catalogue. It was hard to let the first millstone go, but by the time Hubster had thrown on a krama and come out to see what all the fucking noise was about, I’d chucked out a whole box of junk and a bit of baggage with it. Perhaps it’s just pudding-fuelled OCD, but I’m looking for some New Year’s extra-sharp resolution once the dawn-crack thing-flinging is over. Hope you find what you’re looking for, too. Cheers!