Shtetlblasters

SATURDAY 14 | In the shtetl (‘villages’ or ‘ghettoes’) of Eastern Europe, itinerant Jewish troubadours once roamed, expressing through klezmer music the full gamut of human emotions from joy to despair, from devotion to revolt, from meditation to drunkenness – all served up with a generous dose of Yiddish humour. Inspired by secular melodies, populasr dances, and the wordless melodies used by orthodox Jews for approaching God in ecstatic communion, klezmer’s evolution was spurred by contact with Slavic, Greek, Ottoman, gypsy and, later, jazz musicians. Using typical scales, tempo and rhythm changes, slight dissonance and a touch of improvisation, today’s klezmorim include Sam Day, a young mandolin player from the US who, before returning home, was instrumental in founding the Klezbodians. The band features Marion Gommard on sax, Bun Hong on clarinet, Giacomo Butte on accordion, Timothy Walker on guitar and Ali Benderdouche on dumbek. Sam, now back in the US with his magnificently named Shtetlblasters, says: “There’s something danceable about klezmer music. There’s a very clear rhythm; it’s driving, propulsive music. And the scales used are sort of major and minor at the same time, so there’s something melancholy about it. It’s very vocal, too; the melodies are played on the clarinet or violin in ways that attempt to emulate the human voice, the sound of a cantor – in a synagogue, the person who’s singing the Jewish prayers…” [Erupts in song] And what can we expect of the Klezbodians? “Mostly fast-paced klezmer instrumental music – similar to gypsy music – along with some Yiddish vocal tunes. It will be feisty!”

WHO: Klezbodians
WHAT: Itinerant Jewish troubadours
WHERE: Doors, Street 84 & 47
WHEN: 9:30pm December 14
WHY: “It will be feisty!” – Sam Day Harmet

 

Guilty pleasures

Most weekends my husband runs away from home. It’s a bit disconcerting, though not entirely uncalled for. In his defence, I am a domineering, acid-tongued surl. I snore like a trumpet. According to an online quiz, I’m uniquely underwhelming in the sack. So when Saturday bitches around, he’s out the door and I’m lamentably on me tod.

But escapee hubby doesn’t disappear to moon soulfully on a bench or run into traffic on purpose, as proposed by every Cambodian music video ever made. I know this because, bless, he actually tells me where he’s pissing off to. I’m sorry but I can’t tell you where in case The Man shakes it down and I end up punned to death in the Police Blotter. Suffice to say my bloke absconds to the leafy corner of a historic national landmark in central Phnom Penh to do manly, vigorous things with all the other connubial fugitives in our hood. It’s like Opus Dei for henpecked husbands.

So while you and I (and by ‘you’, I mean ‘probably just me’) are drowning our marital sorrows with a Panda-warm pinot and a desultory fiddle on Tinder, he’s yukking it up deep inside this particular touristic imperative in a Cambo-style mancave populated by fellows of every feather. It’s the one place a Two Star can banter with the chicken-embryo snack dude. Plus it’s like a fucking resort in there. There’s boules for the gallically inclined, the day’s papers, comfy seating, shady trees and skinny cats with massive testicles schmoozing about.

At the heart of this sanctuary, sat on an incense-pricked tree stump, is a beat-up, 22” veteran TV showing non-stop fights. Here my absentee other half and his shouty mates squint through the snowy static, transfixed by every genre of arsekickery the rabbit ears will allow: local, international, boxing with gloves, bareknuckle shitfights in cages, wrestling real or RAW. I can’t say I blame them. Fit, sweaty men beating the living daylights out of each other in a safe and responsible environment is one of my top hottest things. I’m Catholic in my combat proclivities.

Sure, I love a good movie stoush – the first few minutes of RDJ’s Sherlock Holmes; that sulky, trapezoid Tom Hardy bloke in The Warrior, obviously hot Brad and interestingly hot Edward in Fight Club. Plus there’s Raging Bull and a hundred other Oscar-worthy knockout punch-ups. But a proper live bollocking just can’t be beat. Take a front row seat between the screaming stable mama and the bookie with 25 plywood-taped Nokias, pick your shorts colour and settle back for the spit, swagger and curly wurly flute music that accompanies every thrilling Khun Khmer duel.

Especially entertaining are the local lads coolly and expertly dispatching pasty foreign pub chancers. While the scrappy imports jab and grimace, our boys calmly kick their crap to the kerb: I’m no expert, but those white guys always forget to use their legs. And that vertical elbow hammer to the top of their heads when they least expect it? Bam. And the crowd goes wild! Best of all,  if you happen to ‘get lost’ on the way to the Ladies, you may find yourself smiling inanely at linimenty Khmer superstars, sat glistening in the change rooms, wrapping their hands veeery slowly and veeery tight.

It occurs to me on rereading this that, though we don’t see eye to eye on everything, me and my man share a love of physical violence that could just get our relationship off the ropes. Perhaps I should talk about this with him over a romantic night at the Bayon big screen, or hammer it out over a bottle of muscle wine. If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em.

 

Urban Italiano

Luna d’Autunno, the well-known Italian eatery on Street 29, is enjoying something of a rebirth. For years a contender for the capital’s best Italian, the restaurant recently closed its doors for a couple of days to repaint the interiors and refresh the lush, outdoor gardens. If the previous Luna was old-world grace, the new Luna affects unassuming urban charm. Bottles of booze hang from the ceiling, art by Lisa Mam and Peap Tarr embellishes the newly whitewashed walls. A new chef has revamped the menu, too. Starters begin with manzanilla olives ($3) and bruschetta pomodoro ($3.50). Pastas, pizzas and risottos range from $7 to $9. The wine menu is deep and there’s even a short selection of grappa, if you’re in the mood.

Luna d’Autunno, #6 Street 29, 023 220 895.

 

Mr Smiley

SATURDAY 14 | Music visionary Danny Rampling, former BBC Radio 1 and Kiss FM DJ, is perhaps best known as the man behind Shoom, one of the first acid house nights in late-’80s London. It was Rampling who took the ‘smiley face’ logo and made it synonymous with dance music. Rampling, too, who bossed Radio 1’s Love Groove, becoming a global name after selling more than a million albums. He’s spun privately for George Michael, The Pet Shop Boys, Mick Hucknell, Gloria Estefan, Depeche Mode, Patrick Cox, Antonio Berardi and Boy George. And tonight, he – the author of Everything You Need To Know About DJing & Success – takes the decks at Riverhouse Lounge, alongside his American DJ wife Ilona, for your listening pleasure.

WHO: Mr & Mrs Danny & Ilona Rampling
WHAT: Veteran DJs
WHERE: Riverhouse Lounge, Sisowath Quay
WHEN: 9pm December 14
WHY: He made the smiley face famous

 

Time warp

FRIDAY 13 | New wave, post-punk, ’80s cheese: all grist to the mill for the inimitable Jaworski 7, fronted by the larger-than-life Jerby Salas Santo. “The band loves post punk, indie, new wave and everything in between,” he says. “We’re like a Pacific/Oceania band. We now have two originals on our set and we’re planning to add more.” Think The Cure, The Smiths and brace yourself for a fist-pumping, high-jumping flashback to your formative years.

WHO: Jaworski 7
WHAT: New wave, post-punk, ’80s cheese
WHERE: Slur, Street 172
WHEN: 9:30pm December 13
WHY: A fist-pumping, high-jumping flashback to your formative years

 

Space rockers

FRIDAY 13 | For a band that plays Khmer wedding hits from 50 years ago, The Cambodian Space Project makes for a peculiar flag-bearer of avant garde Cambodian rock. But the tripped-out ’60s psychedelia that defined the country’s golden era of music – when superstars such as Pan Ron and Ros Sereysothea ruled the airwaves – is proving almost as popular today as it was during King Sihanouk’s Sangkum Reastr Niyum. From unpretentious beginnings, the group has evolved from little more than a musical sideline into a slickly polished way-back machine driving headlong into Cambodia’s golden musical past. Expect a unique mix of space rock, surf, reggae, dub, Khmer surin and ’60s psychedelia, with out-of-this-world vocals from Srey Thy.

WHO: The Cambodian Space Project
WHAT: Tripped-out ’60s psychedelia
WHERE: Equinox, Street 278
WHEN: 9pm December 13
WHY: They’ll take you into orbit

 

The burn of hot wax

FRIDAY 13 | At the pinnacle of the late-1980s UK club scene, when places like the Blitz and people like Steve Strange ruled a Gomorrah of 24-hour gender-bending pop excess, the truly rebellious were breaking into abandoned school buildings in Brixton, wiring the places up with admirably jerry-rigged sound systems and shaking the windows with music that didn’t suck. Paul Adair was a 20-something college radio DJ from small-town New Zealand. He had come of age on New Order, The Smiths, Cabaret Voltaire and early UK electronica. London was the fount of all music. Vinyl was the substrate. “The ’80s,” says Adair, who spins under the name Dr Wahwah, “is completely underrated. A whole lot of people associate it with bad haircuts and the music videos that all came out, but look: it was a time when a lot of musical genres that dominate now came to the fore.” Untethered in the Big Smoke, Adair quickly fell in behind the turntables at London squat parties. Twelve-inch wax became his currency. His collection grew from a few dozen discs in the beginning to more than a thousand by the time he returned home in 1993. Adair’s collection has been mostly closeted since, more a souvenir from his colourful youth than any actively curated library. But he got the jones again recently and started buying records, hence Vinyl Mania, a party at Meta House for Dr Wahwah and wax lovers to spend the night together. The culmination of a two-year buying spree, Wahwah’s newest additions are “predominantly dance” he says, but there’s lots of eclectic obscurata there too: Japanese funk, limited-edition underground disco, minimalist African house. He’s joined tonight by Nico Mesterharm, aka DJ Nicomatic, who brought his vinyl collection from Germany to Phnom Penh two years ago. Combined with Dr Wahwah’s set, the library pushes 3,000 titles.

WHO: Dr Wahwah and DJ Nicomatic
WHAT: Vinyl Mania
WHERE: Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard
WHEN: 9pm December 13
WHY: Sounds from the European underground have never been so accessible