Pan’am: Culinary back alleys

In the language of the Parisian bon viveur, pan’am means something like ‘someplace else’ and it refers to the small back streets and narrow alleyways along which the city’s culinary secrets lie. Pan’am in Phnom Penh, the smallishmo place on Street 19 with half a dozen tables and an eclectic fusion menu, lives up to the name. The main menu offers pasta, pate and whatnot (something to keep the kids happy, the maitre d’ says), but the real attractions are the specials, a short picture book of Cambodian-inspired Euro-Asian dishes. The grapefruit salad with surimi ($4.50) comes served in a watermelon, the salmon roll ($7.50) with avocado, goat cheese and salmon eggs. Pan’am looks expensive from the outside, but the portions are healthy and it’s easy to have a plate or two and a glass of wine for around $10.

Pan’am, #196 Street 19.

Head spin

SATURDAY 21 | At the headquarters of Tiny Toones, where artful graffiti adorns the walls, kids of sex workers, drug addicts, the violent and parents otherwise unable to cope come to immerse themselves in the head-spinning, beat-boy culture that was the first wave of hip hop. Founded by ‘KK’ (real name: Tuy Sobil) in 2005, the organisation is today based in a bustling Chba Ampov alleyway on the far side of Monivong Bridge and supports hundreds of youngsters. “The major change is how I feel,” says one boy clad in a Manchester United football shirt. “I’m more happy than I was before I came to Tiny Toones.” “My favourite is the singing and dancing,” volunteers another. “It has opened my eyes to different aspects of art, especially coming from foreign places. I understand more now.” One boy giggles. “I never believed I could be a superstar.” Says KK’s sidekick, Shhort: “I was born in 1980 so I grew up listening to the first rappers back in the day. To me, rap was a movement. That’s why I fell in love with rap music. It was people living in the ghettoes speaking their minds. People were uniting through hip hop back in the day, with Queen Latifah and all those people. There wasn’t no gangster rap back then. Back then it was the b-boy, unity, love approach. We’re trying to bring back that original love and unity aspect.” At tonight’s fundraiser (entry is $4), expect guest appearances from spoken word artist Kosal Khiev and MC Gobshite; a mass dance performance and a breakdance battle.

WHO: Tiny Toones
WHAT: Home-grown hip hop show and workshop
WHERE: Show Box, #11 Street 330
WHEN: 7:30pm September 21
WHY: If you’ve never seen kids head-spinning and beat-boying, the time is NOW

Paying tribute to the ‘Hillbilly Shakespeare’

FRIDAY 20 | Had he not succumbed to a lethal combination of alcoholism and prescription drugs at the age of 29, Hank Williams – also known as ‘the hillbilly Shakespeare’ – would have turned 90 this month. In homage to one of country music’s most enduring legends, Grass Snake Union’s Andre, Daniel Greg and Jose are teaming up with urban cowboy Joe Wrigley under the moniker Holey Bucket Union to perform a catalogue of Williams’ classics.

WHO: Holey Bucket Union
WHAT: Hank Williams tribute
WHERE: Equinox, #3a Street 278
WHEN: 9pm September 20
WHY: “Don’t take life too serious. You can’t get out alive, anyhow.” – Hank Williams

Renaissance woman

FRIDAY 20 | Amanda Bloom – a willowy, porcelain-skinned wisp with a penchant for vintage clothing – is an elegant Australian singer and composer who began studying piano at the age of three, wrote her first sonata aged six and debuted at the Sydney Opera House at just 17. On her first album, The History Of Things To Come, a song by the name of Rosetta – so called in honour of the Rosetta Stone, which famously unlocked the secrets of Ancient Egypt – contains the line: ‘An idea does not gain truth as it gains followers.’ When the album was released in 2010, the lyrics were immediately seized upon by freethinkers the world over. They’ve since been immortalised on everything from websites and radio shows to t-shirts and at least one tattoo. These ten words lie at the core of what Bloom, deeply touched by baroque and world music, describes on the album liner notes as “An epic and astounding fusion of fantasy, circus, classical, and piano-driven alternative rock.” Strings, oboes, harpsichords, cellos and timpanis layer in orchestral splendour amid off-beat rhythms, stunning harmonies and still more stirring lyrics. “Imagine an 18th century tea party with Tori Amos, Cirque du Soleil, Yann Tiersen and Muse” is how she defines her own otherwise almost indefinable style. Tonight, she will conjure a hypnotic blend of narrative, classical folk songs from her soon-to-be-released second album, Atlas, which features Australian saxophonist Euan Gray and Malaysian Asia Beat drummer Lewis Pragasam. “The album draws its inspiration from my experiences living in Cambodia for the last two years and is a melting pot of world, classical and piano-driven melodic pop music,” she says.

WHO: Amanda Bloom
WHAT: A hypnotic blend of narrative, classical folk songs
WHERE: Doors, Street 84 & 47
WHEN: 9pm September 20
WHY: “Imagine an 18th century tea party with Tori Amos, Cirque du Soleil, Yann Tiersen and Muse” – Amanda Bloom

‘Chavarotti’ sings highbrow opera for the working class

THURSDAY 19 | Think opera is the preserve of posh types? Think again. This month, a shy 23-year-old wearing a hooded top and trailed by a Staffordshire terrier made international headlines when he was discovered singing spine-tingling renditions of everything from Nessun Dorma to Hallelujah outside a British supermarket. Maxwell Thorpe, dubbed ‘Chavarotti’ by the tabloids, has amassed almost 100,000 hits on YouTube and prefers to do his singing on the streets of northern England than on reality TV shows. Staffordshire terriers may be in short supply for this evening’s operatic exercise at Doors, but Ai Iwasaki (mezzo soprano) and Kiyong Ryu (tenor) can still conjure forth the very best of Puccini, Tosti and Donizetti.

WHO: Ai Iwasaki (mezzo soprano) and Kiyong Ryu (tenor)
WHAT: Opera
WHERE: Doors, Street 84 &47
WHEN: 8:30pm September 19
WHY: “Staid middle age loves the hurricane passions of opera.” – Mason Cooley

Diego Dimarques: El Gipsy King

THURSDAY 19 | Guitarist Diego Dimarques is perched on a barrelhouse stool, sipping bottles of Angkor and playing Spanish jazz at the finest music room in Phnom Penh. Clean-shaven with greying, shoulder-length hair, the 50-ish-year-old guitar player could easily pass for a son of Jose Reyes, the world-famous flamenco guitarist whose five sons – Nicolas, Canut, Paul, Patchai and Andre – comprise a majority of the Gipsy Kings. “There are rumours that I was part of the band, the one with the white hair,” Dimarques says, dispelling any notion that he might be a long-haired Nicolas Reyes in disguise. “I am not part of their family in the sense that we have no common blood.” But Dimarques is a fellow traveller on the same circuit, a compadre in heart and spirit, and considers Gipsy Kings co-founder Jalloul ‘Chico’ Bouchikhi both a friend and inspiration. “I met Chico when I was playing a hotel in Paris in 2006 or 2007 and he was there to promote his new album Freedom. I was surprised to see him and I went to him to apologise for not playing his songs very well, but he told me: ‘The more they are played, the less we forget the culture.’ We talked together around a Pastis and he told me there was no problem if people thought I was part of the band!”

WHO: Diego Dimarques
WHAT: Gipsy and Latin music
WHERE: The Groove, Terrazza, Street 282
WHEN: 9pm September 19
WHY: Our very own Gipsy King

Sons of anarchy

WEDNESDAY 18 | The first punk rock music arrived in Burma on cassette tapes carried by sailors in the ’90s, igniting a growing movement in the capital. For young Burmese, punk provides a radical way to spit their political frustrations in the face of the much-despised government. Lyrics condemn miserable living conditions in a scream for freedom and human rights. The main characters in Yangon Calling: Punk In Myanmar, by Berlin-based filmmakers Alexander Dluzak and Carsten Piefke, are leading members of Myanmar’s punk scene, filmed in secret for six months without official permission. Small, undetectable cameras followed them in homes, work places, rehearsal spaces and illegal gigs to capture the underground culture. The voices of people representing the scene and imprisoned during the dictatorship are also heard. Says rokumentti.com: ‘Yangon Calling is a film about a country where punk is still true rebellion and literally a fight for freedom, and not just a random bunch of slogans and a way to dress. The music represents a lifeline amid the stranglehold of the government and personal hardships. Any talk about the death of punk is much exaggerated, at least when it comes to this vigorous documentary.’

WHO: Punks, old and new
WHAT: Yangon Calling: Punk In Myanmar screening
WHERE: Meta House, #37 Sothearos Blvd.
WHEN: 7pm September 18
WHY: ‘Yangon Calling is a film about a country where punk is still true rebellion and literally a fight for freedom, and not just a random bunch of slogans and a way to dress.’ – rokumentti.com

Poets unite

WEDNESDAY 18 | Poet of the bar room, thoughtful musician and ceaselessly rolling stone, Scott Bywater is probably one of the most extraordinary ordinary guys around. That’s not what he tells people, of course; ‘(kind of a music guy)(writes a bit)’ his card advertises apologetically. “I got sick of reading on everyone’s cards ‘CEO this, Master of the Universe that,’” he says in explanation. “That’s what I am and it doesn’t get anyone’s hopes up too much.” His style is redolent of chansonniers like Jacquess Brel as well as Anglophonic troubadours Leonard Cohen and Bob Dylan. Bywater, of course, sidesteps such laudatory comparisons and, like Dylan, he delights in not playing by the rules. “I’ll give everything a shot; there aren’t any rules.” Join Scott tonight for the first poetry open mic at the newly opened Snug.

UPDATE

WHO: Scott Bywater and fellow poets
WHAT: Poetry open mic
WHERE: Snug, corner of Streets 308 & 29 Java Cafe
WHEN: 8pm 7:30 pm September 18
WHY: Let loose your inner musings