The voice

FRIDAY 9 | Striding onto the catwalk in an emerald-green dress crafted from recycled water bottles, a seemingly endless train of fabric spooling over the stage behind her, Rhiannon Johnson embodied the very essence of Glamazon 2.0. Born in Barbados to English parents and having spent her formative years in Kenya before graduating from London’s much-admired Central St Martins University of the Arts, this elegant chanteuse cuts quite the dsash on the runway. But it’s what’s underneath – namely, her vocal chords – that really quickens the pulse. “Music in Barbados is a big deal,” she says. “In the Caribbean, it’s a huge part of their culture. Once a year, we’d have this big festival to celebrate the end of the crops and sugar cane; it’s called Crop Over. Listening to the radio and singing was always a huge part of my life, but it wasn’t until I got to school in Kenya that I got the chance to focus on it. It felt great: it was me coming out of myself. I’d only ever sung by myself in the shower.” From singing in the shower to fronting Cambodia’s rowdiest funk band, Durian, tonight she takes centre stage at The Groove, the newest jazz venue in town, conjuring a jazz/soul set list with the help of Barry Speirs (keys) and Ritchy (drums).

WHO: Rhiannon Johnson Trio
WHAT: Jazz and soul
WHERE: The Groove, Terrazza, Street 282
WHEN: 9pm August 9 & 14
WHY: If you weren’t at Glamazon 2.0, ask anyone who was

Remixed

FRIDAY 9 | From twirling her stuff at the Moulin Rouge in Paris to spinning vinyl in Australian super-clubs, Chantal combines the very best of dancer and DJ through everything from funk, soul and disco to minimal tech and Latin house. DJ Cool Hand Luke, meanwhile, represents the ‘bump and grind’ end of the house spectrum with funky tech house, big soulful disco and ’70s-’80s retro.

WHO: DJs Chantal and Cool Hand Luke
WHAT: Friday’s Remixed party
WHERE: Le Bar, Sofitel, Sothearos Blvd.
WHEN: 7pm August 9
WHY: Did we mention ‘bump and grind’?

Devil’s horn

THURSDAY 8 | Euan Gray, front man of epic Australian groove band The Rooftops and now based here in Cambodia, dreamed as a boy that he met saxophonist James Carter and asked the secret of his success. In the dream, Carter lifted his lapel to reveal a small badge that said ‘Practice’. The grown-up Gray claims not to have heeded that advice, but the seductive sound that spirals out of the bell of his almost-a-century-old sax suggests otherwise – despite his protestations to the contrary: “It’s clunky, it’s out of tune. With a new sax, the sax drives you. But with an old sax, you have to do the driving. You have to say: ‘This is where we’re going.’ It’s really out of tune and good players I know can’t play it. I was just brought up on bad saxophones, so I know what I need to do to squeeze it into shape.” Expect a bouncy set list spanning jazz and pop, with backing from Ritchy (drums) and Barry Speirs (keys).

WHO: Euan Gray Trio
WHAT: Jazz and pop
WHERE: The Groove, Terrazza, Street 282
WHEN: 9pm August 8
WHY: The grooves are feet-friendly, the storytelling soulful

Renaissance woman

THURSDAY 8 | Amanda Bloom – a willowy, porcelain-skinned wisp with a penchant for vintage clothing – is an elegant Australian singer and composer who began studying piano at the age of three, wrote her first sonata aged six and debuted at the Sydney Opera House at just 17. On her first album, The History Of Things To Come, a song by the name of Rosetta – so called in honour of the Rosetta Stone, which famously unlocked the secrets of Ancient Egypt – contains the line: ‘An idea does not gain truth as it gains followers.’ When the album was released in 2010, the lyrics were immediately seized upon by freethinkers the world over. They’ve since been immortalised on everything from websites and radio shows to t-shirts and at least one tattoo. These ten words lie at the core of what Bloom, deeply touched by baroque and world music, describes on the album liner notes as “An epic and astounding fusion of fantasy, circus, classical, and piano-driven alternative rock.” Strings, oboes, harpsichords, cellos and timpanis layer in orchestral splendour amid off-beat rhythms, stunning harmonies and still more stirring lyrics. “Imagine an 18th century tea party with Tori Amos, Cirque du Soleil, Yann Tiersen and Muse” is how she defines her own otherwise almost indefinable style. Tonight, she will conjure a hypnotic blend of narrative, classical folk songs from her soon-to-be-released second album. And we really mean it this time (apologies to everyone who turned out to see her last month only to find the gig was cancelled. If it’s any consolation, we didn’t know either).

WHO: Amanda Bloom
WHAT: A hypnotic blend of narrative, classical folk songs
WHERE: The Village, #1 Street 360
WHEN: 8:30pm August 8
WHY: “Imagine an 18th century tea party with Tori Amos, Cirque du Soleil, Yann Tiersen and Muse” – Amanda Bloom

Contro d’Oriente: Asian mash-up

The name says Italian, but Contro d’ Oriente, the cutesy new eatery behind the Royal Palace on Street 184, is far more artsy Asian mash-up than smoky mob hangout where heavyset enforcers burn Macanudos and argue over the optimal slimness of the sliced garlic in the tomato sauce. At Contro, floor-to-ceiling murals cover the walls – a Venice riverscape to one side, a bucolic Mekong waterway to the other. The ceiling lights are covered in Pich Sopheap-esque woven rattan artwork and Khmer-style long chairs sport oversized pillows covered with local fabrics. Most pastas are less than $5, the gelato is a delicious $1.5 per scoop, and the staff like to keep the music turned up, which makes it harder for the G-men to listen in on the caper.

Contro d’ Oriente, #20 Street 184.  

Wheels of fortune

WEDNESDAY 7 | Two filmmakers, three motorcycles and 2,700km: the tale of an extraordinary journey from Singapore to Cambodia to help support an ailing primary school in Kampong Thom. The award-winning documentary Switchbacks, by Harry Chew and Mark Philpott, chronicles the adrenalin-fuelled adventures of an outlaw biker, a roadie and a complete motorcycling novice along the long, inhospitable route to raising $30,000 to build and stock the library at Aknuwat Primary School.

WHO: The adventurous
WHAT: Switchbacks screening
WHERE: Meta House, Sothearos Boulevard
WHEN: 4pm August 7
WHY: An outlaw biker, a roadie and a complete motorcycling novice cover 2,700km for charity

Great heights

SUNDAY 4 | For three generations, spanning more than 130 years, the Chitrakar family has served as state-sponsored ‘visual documentarians’ of Nepalese history. Employed as royal painters and court photographers, they have captured the evolution of cultural history, religion and development in the birthplace of Buddha. The family tradition began in the late 19th century with Dirga Man Chitrakar, who worked until he was 71; continued with his only son Ganesh (1916-1985) and today the mantle has been passed to Kiran Man Chitrakar, who will  be on hand for tonight’s exhibition opening.

WHO: Nepal’s ‘visual documentarians’
WHAT: The Chitrakar Collection exhibition opening
WHERE: Meta House, Sothearos Boulevard
WHEN: 6pm August 4
WHY: 120 years of Nepalese history caught on camera and canvas

Spin doctor

SATURDAY 3 | While he speaks, DJ Illest’s hands move across the decks in his Tuol Kork home studio at what appears to be the speed of sound. Lithe fingers stop and start spinning vinyl, bending beats and splicing vocals. The cross-fader slams back and forth in a blur, blinking lights monitoring the music’s vital signs. Baby scratches, flares and chirps explode from a wall of speakers, a sagging mattress propped against one wall by way of soundproofing. A product of the French hip hop scenes in Paris and Montreal, Illest switched spray cans for wheels of steel after hearing his first Grandmaster Flash mix and thinking: “Wow, he’s making musical notes just by moving the record back and forth!” Today, he’s officially the best DJ in Cambodia, according to our Best Of Phnom Penh 2012 awards – admittedly, old news to anyone who saw him at Pontoon’s decks alongside Grandmaster Flash last year.

WHO: DJ Illest
WHAT: The best DJ in Phnom Penh, as voted for by YOU!
WHERE: Pontoon, Street 172
WHEN: 11pm August 3
WHY: If he’s good enough for Grandmaster Flash…

One more

SATURDAY 3 | The mantra of many a bar-fly, Moi Tiet – Khmer for ‘One more!’, as if you didn’t already know – is a phrase that also serves as the capital’s latest coming-together of musicians, this one producing a proudly all-original set list. Among their number are Andre Swart (Grass Snake Union and Kheltica); Chuck Erz (Musikero); Greg Lavender (Grass Snake Union, Durian, Los Poporks Jahzad, and just about every other band in town); Jenna Holliday (Holliday in Cambodia); John Shakespear (Durian) and Scott Bywater (Cambodian Space Project and Wash). Says Scott Bywater: “It brings them together for what? It brings them together to play an all-original repertoire of songs that range from the bluesy to the funky to the soulful to the poppy to the rocky.  You’ll laugh, you’ll cry, you’ll dance and the tunes will give you earworms for days. The only remedy is to go see them again.”

WHO: Moi Tiet
WHAT: An all-original repertoire of songs that range from the bluesy to the funky to the soulful to the poppy to the rocky
WHERE: Equinox, Street 278
WHEN: 9pm August 3
WHY: Of all the worms you could contract in Cambodia, earworms are by far the most preferable